Yellow tang spots

radreef02

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Morning, received this yellow tang and looks great but concerned about the black specs all over the fish.

Captive bred so it should be clean but is this black worms ?

Is it contagious?

IMG_5344.png IMG_5345.png
 
I’m told they’re stress marks. I would believe that because black ich worms stick out of the skin and are on fins as well
 
contact the seller, ask them if he was like that, if that’s normal, stress for shipping maybe.
 
Going to give it time but the seller did say it’s likely the stress. He’s super healthy and already the boss of the tank.
 
Morning, received this yellow tang and looks great but concerned about the black specs all over the fish.

Captive bred so it should be clean but is this black worms ?

Is it contagious?

IMG_5344.png IMG_5345.png
This is known as black ich and not parasitic ich but caused by turbellarian worms and fish should be treated with praziquantel- prazi pro with initial treatment applied and left for 8 days, water change and one more application for 8 days
Feed good quality diet as fish looks thin and add air stone for added oxygen as prazi reduces oxygen and appetite
Some foods to feed:
Mysis shrimp
Spirulina brine shrimp
LRS fish frenzy
Formula 2 frozen
Small plankton
TDO pellets
 
Morning, received this yellow tang and looks great but concerned about the black specs all over the fish.

Captive bred so it should be clean but is this black worms ?

Is it contagious?

IMG_5344.png IMG_5345.png


I've not seen tang turbellarians on tank raised yellow tangs before, so I might rule that out, although this sure looks like it.

Jay
 
I've not seen tang turbellarians on tank raised yellow tangs before, so I might rule that out, although this sure looks like it.

Jay

Black ich was ruled out once I saw other pics of yellow tangs with it. Noticed that the black ich always pokes out and will be on fins as well. I’ll check him tomorrow , I presume he is okay as he’s super active and aggressive towards any other fish right now and eats well

I killed my last one I think to med stress. He was 21d in copper. 3-4 day into prazi he developed a red head and stopped eating and died.

I did not Medicate this one and just threw him in the display tank
 
Also while we’re on this fish topic. I upgraded my UV for my 115g tank from 15watt to 25watt AquaUV

I’m running 300gph on the pump.

Is that too much for parasites? I would believe it’s uw or EOL rating is 100k-110k


90k is rated @ 400gph
 
Also while we’re on this fish topic. I upgraded my UV for my 115g tank from 15watt to 25watt AquaUV

I’m running 300gph on the pump.

Is that too much for parasites? I would believe it’s uw or EOL rating is 100k-110k


90k is rated @ 400gph

Depends on what you are trying to kill with that dose. Cryptocaryon has a very high kill rate requirement, and as a side stream application, will just not control active infections. Noga et-all maintain that UV, in a tank-to-tank application, UV can stop downstream infections, but in a side stream, as used in home aquariums, the dwell time is always too high, and some tomites/theronts get through. Here is a write-up I did on this:

UV sterilizers
Ultraviolet (UV) sterilizers are also sold as a “cure” for Cryptocaryon. The problem is that most hobbyist-sized UV sterilizers do not have the power to make an effective kill on the relatively large Cryptocaryon parasite. Additionally, UV sterilizers are effective only on the tomite/theront stage, as this is the only point where the parasite is even present in the water column.

The fallacy here is that tomites/theronts must leave the fish. Actually, some of them get caught up in the fish’s mucus and stay attached until they become infective trophonts again. This means that UV sterilization will not eliminate active Cryptocaryon infections from a single aquarium. Where it does have benefit is in eliminating tomites as they pass through a filtration system from one discrete tank to another (like in a public aquarium or fisheries lab). Decades ago, diatom filters were touted as cures for ich and velvet. The same issue applies with them; there are adherent forms of these protozoans that can continue to infect the fish without ever having to leave the fish’s body. Even if they do, the “dwell time” factor means that some theronts will still be present in the water column to infect the fish.

A recent study (Ge-Ling, 2022) indicates that the UV dose required to kill Cryptocaryon theronts/tomites is 185,000 uw/S/cm2. They do go on however, to conclude: “ …both ozone and UV are ineffective in controlling infection within an individual aquarium because of the adhesive nature of C. irritans tomonts (Ma et al., 2017). Therefore, the focus on UV and ozone treatment should prevent live theronts flow into aquaculture ponds. Second, the tomonts are strongly resistant to UV or ozone than theronts, implying that recommended production doses cannot wholly kill tomonts….”


Jay
 

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