Okay i just got a really healthy tang and its large i just wanna make sure it wont have any ich or etc now can i just add him in my 5 gallon tank for 2 weeks just to keeep a eye on it or should i risk it and add him in my dt ?
Yellow tang
- Thread starter edmond
- Start date
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cracker
5000 Club Member
If You have a proper Q/T setup. Filter that is cycled etc .Id watch him for a while. That small of a tank can stress a tang fish though. Look for stringy poo & spots of course. This is just my Op . This is what I do with a new fish. Some will auto medicate. I'm not that willing.I prefer to check the fish out 1st before treating . It's a hard call to Q/T a really healthy looking fish. Let's wait to see what others have to say
skiergd011013
Well-Known Member
I dont quarantine fish, and ive never had a problem in the close to ten years ive been reefing. I closely watch fish and look them over. If i feel they are healthy, look good and eat, i add them. Maybe im lucky....but it works for me. Yellow tangs in my experience are quite hardy fish as well.
4FordFamily
Tang, Angel, and Wrasse Nerd!
I alwaysquarantine fish. Many fish can mask symptoms of velvet and ich for 30 days, and become effective Typhoid Marys. Some fish like wrasse can have ich and velvet and build a resistance to it so that they don’t show classic symptoms.
Today, velvet is literally everywhere. It’s probabky exponentially more common than it was 5-10 years ago. Not worth the risk. I treat all fish in copper before they go in the display for 30 days, then observe.
Today, velvet is literally everywhere. It’s probabky exponentially more common than it was 5-10 years ago. Not worth the risk. I treat all fish in copper before they go in the display for 30 days, then observe.
Big G
captain dunsel
+ 1 ^^^ lost a whole QT full of velvet infected fish a couple of months ago. They looked great at the LFS. Good thing they were in my QT. If even one of those fish had made it into my DT . . . .
Newb73
Valuable Member
Im doing it Paul Bs way.
Big tank, tons of circulation, lots of food, good water quality, ozone, just dropped $700 on a 50 watt high output UV that will be run 24/7 at sterilization flow rate. No copper no QT.
The only premature fish deaths ive had in the last 5 years were from carpet surfing, feeding problems and QT.
Yeap....i have a fully cycled 90g that i was using for QT and i lost a powder blue on day 30 (no sign of disease, he just wasnt eating well)....im convinced that if i had just thrown him in the 225g he would have been fine.
So much so that when i brought my achilles tang home i immediately threw him in a fully stocked 225g with 4 other tangs and waited for disaster.
That was about a year ago...the achilles eats like a pig, bullys the super fat regal and chases the sailfin any time nori is on the two nori clips and has grown close to an inch.
Big tank, tons of circulation, lots of food, good water quality, ozone, just dropped $700 on a 50 watt high output UV that will be run 24/7 at sterilization flow rate. No copper no QT.
The only premature fish deaths ive had in the last 5 years were from carpet surfing, feeding problems and QT.
Yeap....i have a fully cycled 90g that i was using for QT and i lost a powder blue on day 30 (no sign of disease, he just wasnt eating well)....im convinced that if i had just thrown him in the 225g he would have been fine.
So much so that when i brought my achilles tang home i immediately threw him in a fully stocked 225g with 4 other tangs and waited for disaster.
That was about a year ago...the achilles eats like a pig, bullys the super fat regal and chases the sailfin any time nori is on the two nori clips and has grown close to an inch.
Zack K
The Butterfly Guy
Quite an experience. I’m pretty sure though @PaulB has 1 of the 6 things you mentioned. No Quarantine. That’s it. Correct me if I’m wrong but he doesn’t run ozone or UV, just a diatom filter from time to time, he also doesn’t have good water quality o many standards. 160nitrates and 2 p04 isn’t necessarily the best to most hobbyists, also I think his tank is either 75 or 125 gallons. Not 180 plus (large tanks defined by most hobbyists. One of the newest things I have found out is that Paul’s tank looks almost dead flow wise. Their is very little surface agitation, and his pipefish do not get blown around.
Just some things I noticed. I could be all wrong but I am also one to do a similar approach. Basic natural system, with high quality foods (not pellets or flakes) but live and meaty frozen foods.
-Zack, who read all of Paul’s Tank thread pages.
[QUOTE="4FordFamily, post: 4318507, member: 51404
Today, velvet is literally everywhere. It’s probabky exponentially more common than it was 5-10 years ago. [/QUOTE]
How do you get to this conclusion, just wondering.
Today, velvet is literally everywhere. It’s probabky exponentially more common than it was 5-10 years ago. [/QUOTE]
How do you get to this conclusion, just wondering.
4FordFamily
Tang, Angel, and Wrasse Nerd!
Quarantining and observing 50+ fish per year for the past several years, working at LFS 10 years ago, moderating and frequenting the fish disease forum.
Ok, gonna ask my lfs how much velvet they've been seeing in the last year or so. I thing they drive up and get fish from the LAX area fish distributors twice a week.
Newb73
Valuable Member
He's been running ozone and feeding heavily for the whole 40 years. Lots of frozen/fresh foods.....not too much processed/freeze dried stuff.
UV on my system is a new addition and is counter to Pauls philosophy of "disease =good".
But like Paul i don't seek eradication, i seek disease control and healthy fish. UV wont cure a tank it simply keeps the population of dz causing agents knocked down.
Agree with you about flow though. I run between 10,000 and 19,000 gph. I believe 100% o2 saturation and plenty of exercise is another key element for happy tangs.
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