Zero Ca and Mg in Tank

Do you have a lot of white precipitant in the tank which is new? I would think that if your Ca was 1k+, even with high Mg, and you kept dosing that there should be some precipitant.
No nothing like that at all, but yes, my corals dont open well and my hammers, touches dont do too well, for a few week they do good and then start to die off, my gonia has not opened up fully from the day it has been in my tank)around a month now

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Also, plz let me know what is the best way to get the Ca and Mg to the correct levels down from my current levels in a safe manner
 
Turning off the dosers and doing several large (50-80%) water changes should get you back to normal. Slow is often best, consider spacing them out over a few days. Bigger WCs will get you to normal quicker.

say you start at approx 1000mg Ca and are doing WC with 500mg Ca fresh saltwater
Example: 50% WC has you at 750mg Ca day one, 625mg Ca day two, 562.5mg day three, 531 day four...
80% WC with the same hypothetical gets you to 600mg on day one and 520mg on day two.

I’ll leave it to you and others to decide how fast you should try and correct.
Hope this helps, good luck
 
Also, plz let me know what is the best way to get the Ca and Mg to the correct levels down from my current levels in a safe manner
If I'm reading this right you have miss read the test kits and now your mag and cal are insanely high.....

The only thing to get them down is a large water change with fresh RODI salt water mixed to 7alk and 1200mag.

I believe red sea blue bucket mixes to that.

Do as large of a water change as you can. If your ALK was involved I would say do this super slow but if it's just your mag and cal and it's only been a couple days you can get that lower faster.

Also dont freak out.....due to a batch of salt I ran my tank at 18alk, 1700mag, 500cal, for a week and had to bring it down slow due to alk being that high.

Also dont dose until you get your testing down a little better.

It's better to do more water changes to keep the number stable than just blindly add supplements especially when testing is off.
 
thank you for your suppprt, it was a good decision to connect to this forum, it made me realize my mistake and the wrong thinking of the test procedure.
 
cud the increased parameters be the reason my corals are dying and/or not opening up?
 
Yes, definitely. Nice profile pic by the way. Is that an emotional support owl
no its a photo from the Abu dhabi Zoo Safari
 
Do not do large water changes! No more than 50%. You want to bring the numbers down a little slower, and there are other issues with large (>50%) water changes. In this hobby, slow is the way to go. I'd do 20% ever couple days until the numbers are more reasonable. And use a salt that isn't overly fortified with Alk, Calc and Mag. Regular Instant Ocean comes to mind.
 
i am using the red sea coral pro
Do not do large water changes! No more than 50%. You want to bring the numbers down a little slower, and there are other issues with large (>50%) water changes. In this hobby, slow is the way to go. I'd do 20% ever couple days until the numbers are more reasonable. And use a salt that isn't overly fortified with Alk, Calc and Mag. Regular Instant Ocean comes to mind.
i am using the Red Sea Coral Pro
 
i am using the red sea coral pro

i am using the Red Sea Coral Pro
The Pro variant is heavily fortified. They're recommending that you pick up the regular "blue bucket" variation to assist in navigating your parameters downward. The Pro stuff will maintain your current levels ...
 
Agree....if you wish to stay with Red Sea, the Pro has mag and calc numbers (at 35ppt salt) of 1390 and 465, respectively, while the blue bucket is 1290 and 430.
 

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