Zoa’s closing during day (please help)

[Misha]

Hey, I don’t know what to do anymore..
3 Weeks ago I added a new frag that frag didn’t opened fully since that time.

Since 2 weeks 3 other frags are behaving the same

When my lights turn on they start to open up but at a point they are closing again.

What I tried: more flow (I saw some detritus)
Changed light schedule to lower intensity with more blue less white.

Pic 1: 13:00 pic 2: 14:30 pic 3; 15:55 and every evening they are completely closed except the same 2/3 polyps.

 

[Misha]

Hey, I don’t know what to do anymore..
3 Weeks ago I added a new frag that frag didn’t opened fully since that time.

Since 2 weeks 3 other frags are behaving the same

When my lights turn on they start to open up but at a point they are closing again.

What I tried: more flow (I saw some detritus)
Changed light schedule to lower intensity with more blue less white.

Pic 1: 13:00 pic 2: 14:30 pic 3; 15:55 and every evening they are completely closed except the same 2/3 polyps.

Pictures are in different order: pic 2 and 3 are in different order

 

[Misha]

#reefsquad can you guys help me out? I really don’t know what to do anymore

 

[tankstudy]

You'll need to run some water tests if you haven't already done so.

 

[vetteguy53081]

Assure water flow is moderate and run lights for 2-3 weeks at 20% while and 75% blue and add Lugols iodine and Seachem fuel or other good aminos.
TYhey should respond well

 

[Misha]

You'll need to run some water tests if you haven't already done so.

Salinity: 1.025
Temp: 25.6 celsius
Ammonia and nitrite 0
Po4: 0.03
No3 1
Kh 7.7

 

[Misha]

Assure water flow is moderate and run lights for 2-3 weeks at 20% while and 75% blue and add Lugols iodine and Seachem fuel or other good aminos.
TYhey should respond well

Water flow is (I think) moderate. The lightning is an Ai prime running 30% acclimation for 1,5 month I will post my settings. I don’t have Iodine and or Seachem fuel but I do have DSR Amino C is that ok? Otherwise I will buy the products you said.

 

[vetteguy53081]

Increase G and DR to 5% and also take a turkey baster and gently blow over the zoas as any mulm will hinder its ability to fully open.
Amino c is good for now and Lugols iodine works well

 

[Misha]

Increase G and DR to 5% and also take a turkey baster and gently blow over the zoas as any mulm will hinder its ability to fully open.
Amino c is good for now and Lugols iodine works well

Red and green are now 5%. I tried the turkey baster for a few times also before this post without luck. I find it strange that it starts opening up and suddenly closes and then keeps a few (the same) polyps open.

 

[vetteguy53081]

that's good to hear they respond. direct flow towards them, not at them and lugols iodine Will help

 

[Misha]

that's good to hear they respond. direct flow towards them, not at them and lugols iodine Will help

I hope to have time tomorrow to go to my lfs for Iodine. Will a (big) waterchange help?

 

[vetteguy53081]

I hope to have time tomorrow to go to my lfs for Iodine. Will a (big) waterchange help?

likely yes. Also dip zoas in peroxide

 

[Misha]

likely yes. Also dip zoas in peroxide

I have never dipped anything in peroxide. Whats the best approach?

 

[blasterman]

Lights don't make zoas partially close. They'll bleach and bowl towards the light but they don't partially close. They close like this when there's something in the water that aggravates them.

I've also never seen a zoa or paly open more with more water flow. Some palys / zoas don't like much flow. I have a colony of gobstoppers that hates water flow and will curl up like this if there's the slightest current while I have another colony of slightly different gobstoppers that loves a lot of current. When in doubt turn all your pumps off and see if they open up. If they dont, it's not a water flow issue.

Side bar, but a white LED is not a wavelength. A white LED is a blue LED with phosphor added, so changing the ratio of blue to white is like changing the ratio of ice cubes to frozen water.

The most likely culprit is a diatom or algae bloom, and these things trigger quickly after your light cycle starts. If you see a brown film on your glass or coral bed in the afternoon after the lights have burned awhile that's the cause.

 

[Misha]

Lights don't make zoas partially close. They'll bleach and bowl towards the light but they don't partially close. They close like this when there's something in the water that aggravates them.

I've also never seen a zoa or paly open more with more water flow. Some palys / zoas don't like much flow. I have a colony of gobstoppers that hates water flow and will curl up like this if there's the slightest current while I have another colony of slightly different gobstoppers that loves a lot of current. When in doubt turn all your pumps off and see if they open up. If they dont, it's not a water flow issue.

Side bar, but a white LED is not a wavelength. A white LED is a blue LED with phosphor added, so changing the ratio of blue to white is like changing the ratio of ice cubes to frozen water.

The most likely culprit is a diatom or algae bloom, and these things trigger quickly after your light cycle starts. If you see a brown film on your glass or coral bed in the afternoon after the lights have burned awhile that's the cause.

Thank for your response. I do see a brown film on my glass and I also have a a little bit of hair algae on my sand bed. What can I do? I already use 0 RODI for my SW. And my po4 and no3 are low.