Zoa Tank...how would you do it?

octoberfest

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So I'm considering setting up a tank for just zoanthids and wanted to get a few opinions.

I know certain zoas like certain things but these questions are "best all around". Also the tank will be 24" X 20" X12".

What would you use for lighting?
How much flow would you have in the tank?
What would you keep the salinity at?
What other parameters would you adjust specifically for zoas?
 
I have a 18x18x18 cube. My light is a 150 watt MH with 2 24watts T5 atinics about 12 inches off the water the zoas seem to like it. For flow I have 2 koralia Nano's my filter is one of the Current Usa's internal Wetdry's I replaced the stock pump with a MJ1200 so I get good flow. I keep my salinty at .1025-.1026. The only other thing I use is I put 1 500mg vitamin c tablet in the filter a week and let it dissolve on its own seems to keep them healthier and brighter jmo though
 
Just regular ole' Vitamin C Tablets from CVS if you have one but any would do. I buy the generic brand because Vitamin C is Vitamin C I do it in my other mixed reef tank its a 125 I put 4 in there a week 2 in each overflow
 
Just regular ole' Vitamin C Tablets from CVS if you have one but any would do. I buy the generic brand because Vitamin C is Vitamin C I do it in my other mixed reef tank its a 125 I put 4 in there a week 2 in each overflow

Actually research conducted by others would suggest that "any old vitamin C tablets" purchased over the counter will not do! RC and other sites with threads on this warn that using over the counter products intended for human consumption will eventually change the pH in your tank, causing major algae issues and a potential system crash. Been awhile since I researched Vitamin C dosing, but there is a special type of Vit. C that you should be using that will not affect pH. Don't jump into the vitamin C dosing lightly, and as with everything in this hobby, research it thoroughly before you try it. I would hate to see someone crash their system because they got bad info. There is a major long thread on this on RC, before jumping into Vit. C dosing, I recommend that individuals read the entire thread. Just my $.02 worth.
 
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Now, to the get the thread back on track. IME, most zoas like fairly heavy indirect flow - enough to actually move the tentacles of the skirt, but not enough to cause them to close up. Failure to provide enough flow will usually result in polyps becoming covered in a fairly heavy cyanobacteria/algae that will eventually cause melting. Zoas have been kept under all three (or four) types of lighting currently used in the saltwater trade, but my personal preference for maximum color potential and light coverage through out the system is t5s (although I've not personally tried LEDs yet). 14K or 20K MH also works well. Some articles indicate that zoas also like "dirtier" water than SPS, and so some have ran skimmerless systems - but in my understanding they also perform frequent (in a small tank, even daily) water changes.
 
Lighting - T5's
Flow - Vortech Mp10 or Koralia 2
Salinity - 1025-1026

When i had my zoa tank, i ran it on a 8 hour time frame on a timer, i did water changes every 2 weeks,my ph stayed around 8.2. i also kept them in the sand bed, i found that they grew better on the floor versus the few frags i had on the rocks, and it was also easier to frag. As far as food goes i spot fed with a phyto mix every 2 days, i also used brightwell vitamin c which i found worked a little but did nothing amazing imo. I think if you used a 4 bulb T5 fixture and 1 k2, you would be good . If you have anymore Questions that i can help you with feel free to drop me a pm. GL:smile:
 
I guess what works for one may not for another like everything else in life lol. But I owuld like to add if your getting 100% vitamin C there shouldnt be a problem you have to use the amount thats works for you. Yes if you use to much a film will develop on the glass and can lower your PH you just have to monitor your stuff and know your system I guess
 
I have a 30" x 18" x 18" zoanthid tank and I happen to like mh lighting, although, I have seen some T-5 lighting on some zoanthid tanks that really make me wonder about changing over.
In your tank I'd figure atleast a couple Tunze 6045's.
I try and keep my salinity at normal levels and imo keep the ca, alk and mag fairly high.
 
Here are my current specs to give you an idea:

75 gal AGA tank

Dual 250w DE Phoenix 14k bulbs (might change to 20k not sure yet)

High indirect flow

Temp 77-79

Cal-400-420
Alk-9-11 dkh
Mag-1300-1400

Euro-reef skimmer
I believe in high skimming with keeping lots of fish fed happy and full. Their poop is dissolved nutrients which help feed the inverts including zoas and palys.

And I run phosphate remover to help keep the nuisance algaes from smothering any colonies or frags.
Been using Phoslock with success.
 
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