Zoas during a blackout

Just_Pete · Mar 17, 2020

So I’m currently dealing with a blackout on my tank, I’m 24hrs in out of a 3 day plan. Currently dealing with what seems to be cyano bacteria. I had an opportunity come up for some zoas that I couldn’t pass up so I bought them and they got in today.

I dipped the frags and placed them in the tank on a frag rack, while tank is lights out.

I plan to treat tomorrow with chemiclean. My question, do you think new zoa frags will be ok with my current plan to treat cyano?

Strawberry · Mar 17, 2020

I know that zoas are primarily photosynthetic, but they also eat other foods like brine shrimp, reef roids, etc. but that is only if they’re open. I’m not sure how long they can go without light but I’d guess they’ll be fine >72 hrs. I’ve only been in the hobby for a short time so take this as you will. Best of luck!!

NS Mike D · Mar 17, 2020

can someone hold those zoas for you? I'm shaking my head at the idea of introducing more animals into a tank that is getting some radical treatment for an outbreak that may be caused by an imbalance in the tank ecosystem. No deal could good to

The zoas should be ok with a short term black out. Mother nature dials back the light regularly with clouds and storms. They are good at storing food.

what is done is done. I suggest you rethink your priorities and focus on your problem at hand.

Just_Pete · Mar 17, 2020

Strawberry said:
I know that zoas are primarily photosynthetic, but they also eat other foods like brine shrimp, reef roids, etc. but that is only if they’re open. I’m not sure how long they can go without light but I’d guess they’ll be fine >72 hrs. I’ve only been in the hobby for a short time so take this as you will. Best of luck!!

NS Mike D said:
can someone hold those zoas for you? I'm shaking my head at the idea of introducing more animals into a tank that is getting some radical treatment for an outbreak that may be caused by an imbalance in the tank ecosystem. No deal could good to

The zoas should be ok with a short term black out. Mother nature dials back the light regularly with clouds and storms. They are good at storing food.

what is done is done. I suggest you rethink your priorities and focus on your problem at hand.

Thanks for the input.

At the current time, no I do not have someone to hold the zoas for me, it is what it is. My priorities are to keep things alive and deal with what's at hand at the moment. I've done blackout treatments before on other tanks with fish and corals with decent success. I've never used Chemiclean before and I plan to follow the directions for it. However, a blackout variable is not printed on the instructions for this product. So I guess my original question should of been, can I use Chemiclean while in blackout? Or has anyone done the same?

Does Chemiclean require some form of light?

MaccaPopEye · Mar 17, 2020

look it's definitely not ideal. IME it will depend heavily on the kind of zoa. Hardier ones will maybe be ok. But I wouldn't risk more delicate zoas.

For what it's worth I just went away for 2 weeks and my tank broke right before I had to leave. My clams and more sensitive stuff went to someone who could look after them. But the basic green zoas and morphs just went into a tank with no light until I could get back. Got back on the weekend and set up the new tank yesterday and the green zoas and morphs look a little ticked off but still alive after 2 weeks with no light. As I said, I wouldn't recomend it. But it might be ok.

NS Mike D · Mar 17, 2020

Just_Pete said:
Thanks for the input.

At the current time, no I do not have someone to hold the zoas for me, it is what it is. My priorities are to keep things alive and deal with what's at hand at the moment. I've done blackout treatments before on other tanks with fish and corals with decent success. I've never used Chemiclean before and I plan to follow the directions for it. However, a blackout variable is not printed on the instructions for this product. So I guess my original question should of been, can I use Chemiclean while in blackout? Or has anyone done the same?

So this raises my other eyebrow Be very careful (think twice) before using Chemiclean , especially if you aren't sure you have cyano. While many have success using it, understand that it can deplete O2 very rapidly to cause a tank crash, especially in a mature tank.

I've seen recommendations to use it with a blackout, not to feed the tank for 4 days, do the water change after treatment and use the airstone to fend off the O2 depletion (which is like a chain reaction of die off, ammonia spike, more die off etc)

I've heard reports that zoas can release toxins with chemiclear. I can't confirm, so research that aspect.

I'm not a fan of chemical solutions to cyano. It comes and goes. I'd first look at the first culprit. While no one knows for sure why cyano will precipitate from the water column and mat up, there is a high correlation when NO3 is low or no and PO4 is present. Bring NO3 and PO4 back in balance often has favorable results. (High NO3 and PO4 is another suspect, but chasing zeros usually brings on many problems like dinos).

While many suggest blowing it off the rocks and sand, IMO, that just causes it to spread, so siphon instead. - especially of you plan to do the blackout and chemiclean - get as much of that stuff out of the tank as possible to increase chances of success - and reduce the amount of dead cyano you will create

Just_Pete · Mar 17, 2020

NS Mike D said:
So this raises my other eyebrow Be very careful (think twice) before using Chemiclean , especially if you aren't sure you have cyano. While many have success using it, understand that it can deplete O2 very rapidly to cause a tank crash, especially in a mature tank.

I've seen recommendations to use it with a blackout, not to feed the tank for 4 days, do the water change after treatment and use the airstone to fend off the O2 depletion (which is like a chain reaction of die off, ammonia spike, more die off etc)

I've heard reports that zoas can release toxins with chemiclear. I can't confirm, so research that aspect.

I'm not a fan of chemical solutions to cyano. It comes and goes. I'd first look at the first culprit. While no one knows for sure why cyano will precipitate from the water column and mat up, there is a high correlation when NO3 is low or no and PO4 is present. Bring NO3 and PO4 back in balance often has favorable results. (High NO3 and PO4 is another suspect, but chasing zeros usually brings on many problems like dinos).

While many suggest blowing it off the rocks and sand, IMO, that just causes it to spread, so siphon instead. - especially of you plan to do the blackout and chemiclean - get as much of that stuff out of the tank as possible to increase chances of success - and reduce the amount of dead cyano you will create

Did a water change today, plan on doing another one tomorrow and another after that. I'll scrub whatever surfaces I can reach and siphon as much as I can. You bring up some very helpful and good points, thanks.

I'm 24hrs in on this blackout with new corals in the tank today, I'm going to continue for the next 48 hrs with blackout only and hold off on the Chemiclean.

I'm optimistic but I'll try the TLC method...scrubbing, siphoning, lights out and WC everyday. I'll recheck my NO3/PO4 levels after and hope for the best. Fingers crossed.

Thanks again.