125Gallon 1 or 2 MP40’s?

Matthew Morrison

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i have one mp 40 in a mixed tank.
125 gallon
Should I add another mp40 or would that be too much flow?

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Two minimal.

Truth be told you’ll want to add additional powerheads in crossflow patterns in an attempt to randomize water movement within your system. That’s very hard to do with just two powerheads, you’re going to have some dead spots on a large system like yours.
 
So far I haven’t been able to keep any sps alive in my 7 month old tank. I have 60 coral mostly lps
 
So far I haven’t been able to keep any sps alive in my 7 month old tank. I have 60 coral mostly lps

It does look like a young tank. Takes time. Looks like you have some LPS.
How are they doing?
 
I would do two mp 40’s. The flow would be great and you can certain deadspots compared to just one. One you can add to the other side and than one just at the bottom.
 
It does look like a young tank. Takes time. Looks like you have some LPS.
How are they doing?
Nothing has made obvious growth. One zoa has multiplied. A lot died 2 months ago when I had an algae outbreak. I since use gfo. I have not been able to keep chalices alive or acros. Or monties. Some newer acans seem healthy. Some zoas have died. Some acans have died. I recently changed radion xr15 (3 of them) from 8 hrs to 12 hours on ab plus 45% intensity. When that happened I also had a chaotomporha clog on my vertex alpha 200 skimmer for a week and it went unnoticed. That combined with what seemed as no skimming clogging my gfo reactor and again algae outbreak. Recently this week and last week I had 2 of 3 scolies die and 1 of 2 trachys die. The remaining scoly and trachy have not lost flesh but they won’t open up to eat. I moved them to shadowy spot shielded from light by my reef saver dry rock. After a week of gfo and skimmed working properly I have decided to move the half of my zoas that are not opening anymore lower to the bottom of the tank earlier today. Anything that looked unhealthy I moved lower placement in my tank. I did parameters check and everything is on point with parameters and I have sent out water for icp triton testing yesterday. I’m trying to get things stable and I’m sick of coral dying. I refuse to quit and just want coral to live and be healthy. I’ve also had fish die here and there in the last7 months
 
I have a mp40 and mp10 on my 75g plus the return on a 125g def add 2 mp40 all your corals will appreciate the random flow corals on top like sps will def love the higher flows. I’m running my MP10 at 70% constant for speed and MP40 60% reefcrest. At night from 12-8am I run them at 30 each to give my fish a lil rest to sleep although I don’t think that matters much to them because I used to run day settings 24/7 for most of the set up. But your corals will def like the extra flow
 
One on each end
 
Salinity 1.023/1.024
Ph 8.0
Alk 8.6
Calcium 380
Magnesium 1200
Phosphorus/phosphate 0.021ppm/7ppb
Nitrate 12
Nitrite 0
Ammonia 0

Okay, thanks. Numbers look pretty good over all.

SG is a little low. How do you measure it? 1.026 is best.

Alkalinity is fine.
Calcium is a little low, as is mag. Calcium around 400-450 and mag around 1350 is a good place to be.

N03 at 12 is fine.
P04 at 0.02 is fine as well

So, other than that, what’s your source water?
 
Okay, thanks. Numbers look pretty good over all.

SG is a little low. How do you measure it? 1.026 is best.

Alkalinity is fine.
Calcium is a little low, as is mag. Calcium around 400-450 and mag around 1350 is a good place to be.

N03 at 12 is fine.
P04 at 0.02 is fine as well

So, other than that, what’s your source water?
I measure it with refractometor.
Initial water fill up was rodi and auto top off last 7 months has been with household well water ran through a water purification system by a well water purifying company called kinetico. I’ve never done a water change. Willing to if that’s the diamond in the ruff answer to my problems
 
I measure it with refractometor.
Initial water fill up was rodi and auto top off last 7 months has been with household well water ran through a water purification system by a well water purifying company called kinetico. I’ve never done a water change. Willing to if that’s the diamond in the ruff answer to my problems

Bingo. Well maybe the answer.......

Okay, first, have you calibrated the refractometer? Do you have calibration fluid for it? If not, try to get some soon. This needs to be done a couple times a month to keep it honest. They will lose calibration over time.

Second is the well water. It potentially is your problem. Well water quality varies form source to source. Even well water should be ran through a RO/DI unit to remove any metals that could be in it. Do you know what the TDS is of the well water?

Do you know what the Purification system for your house is like?
 
I used calibration fluid last couple of times I’ve looked. I initially put in 1.024 salinity because it was recommended somewhere by someone as being better than 1.026.
I have never been able to test tds on the well water that is running through lots of filtration tanks as a system set up by a water purification company. I’ve tried to see if I can find out the tds but it was never done. I thought it would be ok because when I took the purified well water to my lfs for testing the ph was neutral. Compared to sink water from the home that had a ph of like 12 or something crazy.
I’ve researched how to go about water changes with my brs 4 stage rodi 150 gallon a day.
When I attach my rodi to a outdoor hose connection the intake tds is 180ish and the output is tds. That’s what I filled my tank with initially.
I used hw marine salt when I filled my tank one time
 
Output 0 tds*
That’s on regular purified well water. The well water purification company says the secondary sink faucet where I get my ATO water from is even more purified. Again never had a way to measure its tds
 

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