12ppm RO?

johnnyphish

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Hi, I'm having a little issue with my water filter, and after changing all the filters I'm still pulling about 12ppm according to my TDS meter (after pulling about 7 gallons total). I'd prefer it was close to zero, but the question is -- is 12ppm safe for a water change? I'm mainly concerned about chlorine. Also, does chlorine naturally evaporate if I let a few 5 gallon buckets sit a few days? Thank you!
 
It could be 1000ppm and safe or 2ppm and unsafe. It’s not the number that matters but what that number represents. As for chlorine it will boil off quickly. Just make sure your city does not use chloramine which does not boil off.
 
If you changed all your filters, you will be zero.
12ppm indicates something wrong in either membrane or DI cartridge.
Check for something not seated.
Stick with 0-1ppm for safety.
 
If you changed all your filters, you will be zero.
12ppm indicates something wrong in either membrane or DI cartridge.
Check for something not seated.
Stick with 0-1ppm for safety.

If he has very high TDS tap water he might not be able to achieve undetectable numbers without additional stages. Consumer filters are 99% at best and none are 0 TDS.
 
Okay, incoming water is ~188ppm. My system is a simple RO system. Nothing about it indicates DI. This is it:


It occurred to me that I have some ATI water treatment to neutralize chlorine, chloramines, and heavy metals. Just did a little water change, everything looks great.
 
You have to have at least one DI stage preferably 2. RO is not going to get you to zero nor safe water for a tank. Go to bulk reef supply, they have plenty of DI add on stages.
 
Okay, incoming water is ~188ppm. My system is a simple RO system. Nothing about it indicates DI. This is it:


It occurred to me that I have some ATI water treatment to neutralize chlorine, chloramines, and heavy metals. Just did a little water change, everything looks great.
I have that exact system, and I added a DI filter for my RODI. still check your filters though. make sure everything is seating and flowing the correct directions. 12 TDS is no dice.
 
Residential ro/DI units produce type II water at very best. Think of the electrode on your filter like an API test. Just because it lacks the resolution does not mean it’s zero.
Zero on an inline or handheld TDS meter is good enough for our purposes.
 
Need to add DI to get that last bit of TDS down to zero.
 
Zero on an inline or handheld TDS meter is good enough for our purposes.
That’s the API agreement :rolling-on-the-floor-laughing:

I mean there is still chlorine in your RO/DI water though. Maybe Type I just to be safe? People worry way too much about water last decade or so. RO is fine on most water sources.
 
That’s the API agreement :rolling-on-the-floor-laughing:

I mean there is still chlorine in your RO/DI water though. Maybe Type I just to be safe? People worry way too much about water last decade or so. RO is fine on most water sources.
My argument is that there is no reason to bring it up in the first place.
 

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