180 Gallon Stand

[Caribbean_Shark]

Thanks, thats what I was thinking of doing, like this.

 

[Caribbean_Shark]

My concern will be my sump which is 60" long by 16". I will need to be able to remove at least 1 of 2x4s in the back, install the sump and re-attch the 2x4s. I don't think this will be a problem, I hope..

 

[ScooterV]

I would run that 2x4 behind the overflow clear to each cross brace, instead of just hanging.

For the sump, could you slid it in from the end?

 

[Caribbean_Shark]

Ah, I get what you are saying now, thanks.
I have a guy who is going to remove the existing panels and place them on the frame so I don't think I will have a chance to slide the sump in from the side.

 

[davocean]

Yep, lots of options or ways to correct, but rockets template is a pretty forgiving guide to follow.

 

[Caribbean_Shark]

Another interesting twist the length and width of the current stand are longer and wider than the actual tank dimensions.. my tank actually measures 70 7/8 by 23 3/4

 

[don_chuwish]

Another interesting twist the length and width of the current stand are longer and wider than the actual tank dimensions.. my tank actually measures 70 7/8 by 23 3/4

Then make the frame and plywood top exactly to that dimension - you want the top frame structure directly under the edges of the tank. Add trim as part of 'skinning' it for a finished look if you want. My 'naked' stand:

And then with panels added:

 

[jrlg]

I see I am not the only one to question another persons work on a stand, I just got a 200g with a stand un-used and have decided to go steel to give me more room underneath and a piece of mind. Although I do like the skin so its not a total loss will be reusing the doors as well

besides steel I am looking into fiberglass FRP tubing as well, the cost is more but I am intrigued to say the least

this was the display, looks like steel just never rusts

 

[Holy_makerel]

I'm going steel with my upcoming 120 build for a few reasons. 1st, I built my 60 cube stand with 2x4s and while the stand itself could hold a volkswagon with little issue it just didn't give me the under tank space i would have liked to have. 2nd, i really don't want a center brace. I'd like it open for easy maintenance. 3rd, I'm planning on making a magnetically attached skin so i can remove 3 sides for full access to everything under the hood. It will cost me about $500 for materials, welding and powdercoat but i think it will be money well spent

 

[Caribbean_Shark]

Then make the frame and plywood top exactly to that dimension - you want the top frame structure directly under the edges of the tank. Add trim as part of 'skinning' it for a finished look if you want. My 'naked' stand:

And then with panels added:

Definitely going to make sure the edges of the tank line up wit the frame. BTW- you set up looks great.

 

[Caribbean_Shark]

I'm going steel with my upcoming 120 build for a few reasons. 1st, I built my 60 cube stand with 2x4s and while the stand itself could hold a volkswagon with little issue it just didn't give me the under tank space i would have liked to have. 2nd, i really don't want a center brace. I'd like it open for easy maintenance. 3rd, I'm planning on making a magnetically attached skin so i can remove 3 sides for full access to everything under the hood. It will cost me about $500 for materials, welding and powdercoat but i think it will be money well spent

What grade steel are you planning to use?

 

[Holy_makerel]

What grade steel are you planning to use?

That is something i have yet to discuss with the builder. I'm still months out from doing this. Gotta finish my basement remodel before i can set up this system. Is there a preferred grade for this application?

 

[Caribbean_Shark]

What grade steel are you planning to use?

Honestly I am not sure. A fabricator I spoke to told me he uses A500 steel for aquarium stands. I am not sure if this is considered good or not.

 

[thediscobandit]

A500 is just a standard carbon steel. It will rust readily so powdercoat is probably a good idea. Though it will likely take decades before the steel loses strength due to rusting.

 

[Caribbean_Shark]

Hi of course the stand builder is lagging but here is a pic of the frame so far. The outside 2x4s aren’t sitting on

the corners like the drawing I gave him of course but overall what’s do you think so far?

 

[don_chuwish]

Good as long as the front beam ends up on top of a stud the same way as the back. What else is planned for support? For that length I'd want a center brace. Any plywood skin planned?

 

[Caribbean_Shark]

Here’s what I asked him to follow from rocket engineers design. Corners not followed.. yes planning on skinning with these panels.

 

[don_chuwish]

It'll be good - Rocket's design ensures easy assembly for less skilled DIYers and doesn't require skinning. So the corners are WAY overkill anyway. You just don't want the top frame depending on the sheer strength of screws or nails - gotta be on top of something.

 

[Caribbean_Shark]

Ok, thanks for the info

 

[Caribbean_Shark]

Guys another question, so the builder has been dragging his feet with the modification. I just found out he’s going to insert the frame into the original stand. So the bottom of the frame will not sit directly on the floor it will be sitting on the plywood on the bottom of the original stand. He’ll then add another piece of plywood for the top piece of the interior sump area. Will this be ok with the frame sitting on top of the plywood of the stand instead of directly onto the floor?