1ppm Nitrites

[reefz]

Ive been cycling my red sea 525xl for 1 week now, and have 0-.25ppm ammonia, 1ppm nitrites, 10-20ppm nitrates. Ive put a 4oz bottle of fritz turbo start 900, 2 bottles of dr tims one and only, and 1 bottle of fritz 9. Is there anything else I should do to get the cycle done?

 

[Miami Reef]

Ive been cycling my tank for 1 week now, and have 0-.25ppm ammonia, 1ppm nitrites, 10-20ppm nitrates. Ive put a 4oz bottle of fritz turbo start 900, 2 bottles of dr tims one and only, and 1 bottle of fritz 9. Is there anything else I should do to get the cycle done?

The cycle is about done. Are you trying to add fish? I would feel comfortable doing a water change and adding a small fish or two.

 

[reefz]

The cycle is about done. Are you trying to add fish? I would feel comfortable doing a water change and adding a small fish or two.

Yes there is a few tangs and 2 clownfish.

 

[Miami Reef]

Oh, about the nitrites: don’t worry about them. We don’t test nitrites in reef tanks because they aren’t toxic in natural levels and go away relatively quick anyway.

 

[Miami Reef]

Yes there is a few tangs and 2 clownfish.

How much is a few? How big is the tank?

 

[brandon429]

agreed here. the point of using bottle bac is for the quick bioload carry, nitrite won't matter.


but that disease prevention protocol though...the fritz alone would carry the fish and implant onto surfaces in 48 hours or less so being a week out is fine for the wait, and additional bac added but bringing in disease is the real risk to the fish, not filtration issues. disease is the direct tradeoff to quick cycle ability, we are seeing in pattern.

nobody's fish die or fail to eat since they're not being burned, bottle bac works well.

they die by month eight after skipping disease protocols found in the fish disease forum. and the loss rate is high, very high.


the loss rate for bottle bac+ fish in cycle? zero. I can't find one single time that failed. for years the rumor was that it was harming fish with initial ammonia burn but we can see that's not the case in today's bottle bac verification threads, they're filters in a bottle legit.

 

[Gtinnel]

Not that it matters now, but it's considered best practice to cycle a tank without fish.

What test kit are you using to measure ammonia, is it API?

 

[Wyvern]

For what its worth, I added fish at 5PPM Nitrite, it went to 0 and stayed there after a week, fish didn't care.

 

[reefz]

How much is a few? How big is the tank?

It’s 140 gallons. There’s a Naso, Yellow, Purple, and a little blue tang.

 

[reefz]

For what its worth, I added fish at 5PPM Nitrite, it went to 0 and stayed there after a week, fish didn't care.

That’s good to know. Thanks

 

[reefz]

Not that it matters now, but it's considered best practice to cycle a tank without fish.

What test kit are you using to measure ammonia, is it API?

Yes i’m using API

 

[reefz]

agreed here. the point of using bottle bac is for the quick bioload carry, nitrite won't matter.


but that disease prevention protocol though...the fritz alone would carry the fish and implant onto surfaces in 48 hours or less so being a week out is fine for the wait, and additional bac added but bringing in disease is the real risk to the fish, not filtration issues. disease is the direct tradeoff to quick cycle ability, we are seeing in pattern.

nobody's fish die or fail to eat since they're not being burned, bottle bac works well.

they die by month eight after skipping disease protocols found in the fish disease forum. and the loss rate is high, very high.


the loss rate for bottle bac+ fish in cycle? zero. I can't find one single time that failed. for years the rumor was that it was harming fish with initial ammonia burn but we can see that's not the case in today's bottle bac verification threads, they're filters in a bottle legit.

Good to know. All my fish go through 2 week qt at the least. So I don’t have to worry about disease. I should also note that I didn’t begin cycling the tank until after the 3rd day of running. That’s when I added ammonia(a mix of frozen foods) and fritz turbo start 900. So basically the tank has only been cycling for about 5 days. The fish seem to be fine with the high nitrites so i’m just not going to worry about it. Thank you!

 

[brandon429]

since seneye came on scene and we've been able to see nh3 tracked out to the hundredths/thousandths level vs guessing TAN levels off the color tube, we can see that Fritz and Dr Tims are able to carry bioload immediately, when added to tanks with fish.
adding two different bottles also rules out the risk of having a dead one, nobody is so unlucky as to have bought two different strains of totally ineffective bacteria.

this allows for complete testless cycling. I wrote about that in my testless cycling thread the double brand approach. seamless.



your pre conditioned fish really are a great way to begin a tank in 2021 and beyond, its no longer a benefit to wait out for nitrite and nitrate compliance in reefing, that didn't get us any better fish disease controls than what you've done above and the inherent control of free ammonia even when from a bottle was all we needed to start.

per Dr Reefs study thread those bacteria are immune to full water changes, they're adhered to surfaces, in about 2-3 days max after addition from the bottle. right out of the gate even in suspension only/day 1 they still manage instant tank bioload just about as well as a months old reef, which is amazing. the bottles never did let ammonia rise to the tenths ppm, it always held in hundredths or thousandths and that's what fully cycled reefs run at, on seneye.

 

[taricha]

A little bit of nitrites produce a LOT of test kit color, so it can be really hard to see with your eyes if the color is going down.

If you have any hanna checkers with a green (525nm) LED like the nitrate or phosphate checkers and some others, then you can use them on a diluted NO2 test solution to track nitrite changes with an electronic eyeball.
Just dilute your final reacted NO2 solution by half or 10/1 or whatever you need to get it in range for the hanna checker. Then check the same dilution in the checker the next day. You'll be able to see that it's going down even if your eyeballs and a color card can't.

 

[Sleepingtiger]

agreed here. the point of using bottle bac is for the quick bioload carry, nitrite won't matter.


but that disease prevention protocol though...the fritz alone would carry the fish and implant onto surfaces in 48 hours or less so being a week out is fine for the wait, and additional bac added but bringing in disease is the real risk to the fish, not filtration issues. disease is the direct tradeoff to quick cycle ability, we are seeing in pattern.

nobody's fish die or fail to eat since they're not being burned, bottle bac works well.

they die by month eight after skipping disease protocols found in the fish disease forum. and the loss rate is high, very high.


the loss rate for bottle bac+ fish in cycle? zero. I can't find one single time that failed. for years the rumor was that it was harming fish with initial ammonia burn but we can see that's not the case in today's bottle bac verification threads, they're filters in a bottle legit.

I am not sure what you are saying. That bottle bac has harmful bacteria that will kill the fish in 8 months? That the fish died because they didn't go through quarantine protocols?

 

[Spare time]

agreed here. the point of using bottle bac is for the quick bioload carry, nitrite won't matter.


but that disease prevention protocol though...the fritz alone would carry the fish and implant onto surfaces in 48 hours or less so being a week out is fine for the wait, and additional bac added but bringing in disease is the real risk to the fish, not filtration issues. disease is the direct tradeoff to quick cycle ability, we are seeing in pattern.

nobody's fish die or fail to eat since they're not being burned, bottle bac works well.

they die by month eight after skipping disease protocols found in the fish disease forum. and the loss rate is high, very high.


the loss rate for bottle bac+ fish in cycle? zero. I can't find one single time that failed. for years the rumor was that it was harming fish with initial ammonia burn but we can see that's not the case in today's bottle bac verification threads, they're filters in a bottle legit.

"for years the rumor was that it was harming fish with initial ammonia burn but we can see that's not the case"


I find it unlikely that you or 99% of people on this forum have done autopsies or disections of fish exposed to x amount of ammonia to actually be able to say that. It doesn't take much ammonia to cause lesions on organs.

 

[brandon429]

check any seneye logs and report back with burn levels noted. Why would anyone think symptomless, happy feeding and swimming fish are being burned

New Cycle - Seneye vs API

Hello All, Have just started to cycle a new DD ReefPro 900. Am using Fritzzyme Fishless food and Turbo Start and am 2 days in. I have dosed twice with Fishless food on the back of the seneye readings which are as follows: But the API result seems to be showing a different story. I`ve seen a...

www.reef2reef.com

we have new measures now. False api doesn’t make the rules any longer


you can tell by the lack of fish death during cycles there’s no burn continuum happening. but there’s a velvet continuum though

given the thousands of seneye logs handy, Dr. Reefs bottle bac study thread, the no symptom happy behaving fish first several months across all reef boards, the low ammonia and high dilution, Randy’s article on nitrite neutrality, we must accept that bottle bac cycling isn’t a lark and that the fish disease forum holds the real loss documentation.

 

[brandon429]

when studying the fish disease forum for loss patterns it stands out the majority waited for old cycle rules to complete; zero nitrite, zero ammonia, some nitrate yet they’re still losing fish due to skipping prep protocols.


number of lost fish posts I can find during fish-in cycles with bottle bac:

Forum Challenge: link an example of a failed reef tank cycle from any post on the internet.

Team, doesnt even have to be your own tank can be google searches. A tank we've actually owned with pics though is better, some details we can identify in what constitutes a stalled cycle this is a continuing study in the ever-changing rules for cycling reef tanks and for this post, we want...

www.reef2reef.com

 

[Ariahsart]

Oh, about the nitrites: don’t worry about them. We don’t test nitrites in reef tanks because they aren’t toxic in natural levels and go away relatively quick anyway.

I currently have now 1ppm of nitrites it was higher before my water change, question if I were to get a anemone should I or wait til it goes back to 0? I think my nitrites are due to mini cycle.

 

[Dburr1014]

I currently have now 1ppm of nitrites it was higher before my water change, question if I were to get a anemone should I or wait til it goes back to 0? I think my nitrites are due to mini cycle.

Sounds like you also have a new tank.
I would not get an anenome yet. Let the tank settle it, to much going on. Anenome can't handle that yet.