300 gallon moved in

[Hydrored]

Lock-line is what I was going to use

Gotcha! first time seeing a setup like this for me personally. Do you have a build thread going?

 

[Daveb300]

My question to the people experienced with this type of overflow is are these strainers all I need in the bulkhead in the overflow? Do I use them in all 5 drains? Do I use all 5 drains to drain water or will one be used to draw air?

 

[Daveb300]

Gotcha! first time seeing a setup like this for me personally. Do you have a build thread going?

Sorry I didn't start a build thread. This is my first time also. I am learning as I go and I do have questions on the best way to set it up.

 

[JumboShrimp]

The strainers are a matter of preference. You can definitely have the water pour down through the plain, open bulkhead openings. Some might say the strainers are good 'in case a snail or fish get up and over the weir' and form a clog. Others will say the strainer will unnecessarily cut down on your drain flow.

Personally I would run 4 of your drains (two on each side) wide open for maximum flow, and raise the middle drain up high with a pipe as a true emergency/overflow drain. (It can also help if there is a rise in water level in the overflow box during a return to power after a pump shut off-- for feeding or power outage.) That said, to cover all bases, and 'tuning' purposes, I would have a nice gate valve on the main 4 drain pipes, and a ball valve on the emergency.

 

[Daveb300]

The strainers are a matter of preference. You can definitely have the water pour down through the plain, open bulkhead openings. Some might say the strainers are good 'in case a snail or fish get up and over the weir' and form a clog. Others will say the strainer will unnecessarily cut down on your drain flow.

Personally I would run 4 of your drains (two on each side) wide open for maximum flow, and raise the middle drain up high with a pipe as a true emergency/overflow drain. (It can also help if there is a rise in water level in the overflow box during a return to power after a pump shut off-- for feeding or power outage.) That said, to cover all bases, and 'tuning' purposes, I would have a nice gate valve on the main 4 drain pipes, and a ball valve on the emergency.

Thank you. This helps me out and I now have a better understanding on what I am doing. Should I use the same size pipe from the drains all the way to the sump?Any other tips or things I should look out for please feel free to comment. All help is appreciated.

 

[JumboShrimp]

Yes, if you really want to do it right, try the same size pipe to avoid any narrowing/choke points. Also, are you familiar with 45-degree angle "street elbows?" A little more expensive, but they help a lot in terms of avoiding a water-flow slowdown. I would use them wherever possible-- even on the return lines. You want to take full advantage of the great water turn-over you can get off that nice coast-to-coast.

 

[Daveb300]

Yes, if you really want to do it right, try the same size pipe to avoid any narrowing/choke points. Also, are you familiar with 45-degree angle "street elbows?" A little more expensive, but they help a lot in terms of avoiding a water-flow slowdown. I would use them wherever possible-- even on the return lines. You want to take full advantage of the great water turn-over you can get off that nice coast-to-coast.

Should they be connected or ran independently to the sump?

 

[Hydrored]

Should they be connected or ran independently to the sump?

Independent would be best

 

[Daveb300]

Independent would be best

Thank you very much.

 

[Hydrored]

Thank you very much.

@JumboShrimp is spot on, use a gate valve on each of the 4 drains, I personally like a regular ball valve on my emergency but it should stay wide open all the time unless for maintenance purposes

 

[Daveb300]

@JumboShrimp is spot on, use a gate valve on each of the 4 drains, I personally like a regular ball valve on my emergency but it should stay wide open all the time unless for maintenance purposes

So the gate valve will help with the noise of the overflow?

 

[JumboShrimp]

Gate valves will help you make fine adjustments across all 4 main drains. You never know what might crop up-- let's say the tank is not level (shame on you! lol) or you want more flow from the outer two than the inner two, or you add pipes to two of the four-- you can tune everything like a piano to find a sweet spot. And yes, it 'can' help with noise, but having more or less water flowing down your pipes. As in more or less fully-submerged.

 

[Hydrored]

So the gate valve will help with the noise of the overflow?

Also, pro tip-put the gate valves as close to the end of the drain pipes as possible (closest to sump) this will help with noise

 

[Daveb300]

Also, pro tip-put the gate valves as close to the end of the drain pipes as possible (closest to sump) this will help with noise

Thanks for the tip

 

[Babado]

Also, pro tip-put the gate valves as close to the end of the drain pipes as possible (closest to sump) this will help with noise

What would you recommend when the sump is in the basement? Have the Gate valve in the basement or would it be fine under the tank in the stand?

 

[Daveb300]

Thanks for the tip

Anyone recommend a place to buy gate valves? 96 bucks at BRS is a little much I think. That would be 400 dollars in gate valves.

 

[Hydrored]

What would you recommend when the sump is in the basement? Have the Gate valve in the basement or would it be fine under the tank in the stand?

I’ve never done a sump in the basement but the idea is to remove the falling water noise after the gate valve. Somebody else may be better off to help you there

 

[Hydrored]

Anyone recommend a place to buy gate valves? 96 bucks at BRS is a little much I think. That would be 400 dollars in gate valves.

It’s painful but those gate valves do not “lock up” like the cheaper ones after some time. You can find traditional white pvc ones at plumbing stores. Edit: I see BRS has "Economy" gate valves but I have no experience with them.

I personally would go cheap in other places and pay for Spears on the gate valves but that’s me. You can use ball valves but I never had any luck in the past with getting them to adjust just right, especially if you are not using DC return pumps

 

[Daveb300]

It’s painful but those gate valves do not “lock up” like the cheaper ones after some time. You can find traditional white pvc ones at plumbing stores. Edit: I see BRS has "Economy" gate valves but I have no experience with them.

I personally would go cheap in other places and pay for Spears on the gate valves but that’s me. You can use ball valves but I never had any luck in the past with getting them to adjust just right, especially if you are not using DC return pumps

If spears is the best option than I guess I will just have bite the bullet and buy them.

 

[Jonathan Adams]

Any progress on this project?