3D Print a pico

Prozium · May 16, 2015

I have had this idea for some time now and it may take me a few months to actually make and build it (not having a lot of extra cash is one of the reasons, lol), but here is the model so far.

^ the 2 outside are return and the 2 inside are drain and back-up drain (in case the first gets clogged)

I want it to have a working sump with macro algae(probably Caulerpa racemosa from mt main tank), the return split in 2 and providing the flow, using a pump like the Sicce MICRAPLUS Pump (158 GPH).
it will either have glass or acrylic viewing panes at 1/8" thick.
the tank is ~8"x5"x5.7" (on the inside) ~1g. I can make the tank taller without issue, and I just might do that.

I would like to keep 1 maybe 2 Crocea clams. (or maybe a Maxima untill it out grows the tank). It would be sort of a clam showoff tank.
I'm a bit concerned about calcium depletion. I could make a small 2 part dosser or a Kalkwasser drip, if it would be necessary.

I don't know what to do for lighting. I don't really like the idea of using a PAR38 or something big/tall like that, but I will if I have to.

Any ideas/thoughts?

Squid · May 16, 2015

This is sweet I'm definitely following along. I love everything 3D printer related and your design is awesome.

Windy · May 16, 2015

What design software are you using?

Dapperjman · May 16, 2015

Very cool idea, following [emoji3]

joshbbert · May 16, 2015

Kessil for lights? Pretty cheap for the 160's and it would look great. Awesome idea cant wait to see it

Prozium · May 16, 2015

Windy said:
What design software are you using?

Modo, it's not cheap, but I had it from when I was taking 3D modeling & animation classes. (only stopped do to complications with my eyes...I'm now legally blind) the pic's are renders not just a screen shot. there are free options out there if your looking for a modeling program. (Blender is one)

joshbbert said:
Kessil for lights? Pretty cheap for the 160's and it would look great. Awesome idea cant wait to see it

I like Kessil (although I have never had them) I just don't like the 4" + cord height they have.

I found that Steves Leds offers custom led stars with 3 leds on them in the same 20mm stars.
I'm thinking...

1 3-up Tristar - Separate wiring - Hyper Violet Combo
LED Color #1: Royal Blue
LED Color #2: Cool White
LED Color #3: Hyper Violet 3.0

and 2 3-up Tristar - Separate wiring
1:
LED Color #1: Royal Blue
LED Color #2: Cool White
LED Color #3: Lime

2:LED Color #1: Royal Blue
LED Color #2: Cool Blue
LED Color #3: Cool Blue

it will be only about $112 with heatsinks dimmable drivers and everything.

only thing I'm worried about is no optics available for them. (think that will be an issue?)

joshbbert · May 16, 2015

Those are slick and you can mount them on the hood. From what ive seen you lose intensity without the optics for sure but the colors blend better so I think they just need to be closer to the water surface without them. The par readings ive seen on some of the threads here show reduced intensity.

Prozium · May 17, 2015

new inside dimensions w 8" x h 7" x d 5". the increse gives some room for flow direction adapters (I'll make them) as well as giving the clam(s) a little head room. I put in a mock up of the lights using point lights of ... close enough color temp... lol! At 3w it was too bright, the render ^ is at 1.5w each.(not that it is a 100% accurate representation or anything.)... I also added a quick rock sculpture to give a little contrast from the white.

joshbbert said:
Those are slick and you can mount them on the hood. From what ive seen you lose intensity without the optics for sure but the colors blend better so I think they just need to be closer to the water surface without them. The par readings ive seen on some of the threads here show reduced intensity.

Given that it will be less then 12" from the sand bed... I bet I have to dim them anyway, lol. Do you think the light might be too focused, almost like spot lights coming down? (I've never used LED's on a fish tank before.)

joshbbert · May 17, 2015

No its the optics that usually give you the spotlight effect so you should be fine will those lights be controlable? Im liking the dimensions

Prozium · May 17, 2015

yeah manually with a knob, and I can get an adapter later to hook it up to my Apex if I felt the need.

joshbbert · May 17, 2015

Awesome gonna be a great build

Prozium · May 20, 2015

got the sump area laid out... for now anyway.
I underestimated how hard it would be to find a heater for this as most are too long. I think a Cobalt Aquatics Mini-Therm Heater 10w being controlled with my older ACjr is the way to go. I'm not sure where I'll put the temp probe...maybe in the overflow or see if I could move the heater next to the return and stick the probe in the current heater pocket. (see pics below.)

big area in the front is for the macro algae with a single LED for light whech is where the overflow drains to. it then flows behind that to the heater area, and finally to the right side where the return pump is.

a view from the back^

BlueZreef · May 20, 2015

Interesting build, curious to see how it turns out.

I've done a lot of 3d printing and I will say that most things aren't water tight (especially with thinner walls). You may need to coat the outside with glue for it to seal properly. Are you printing this on a home printer or somewhere else?

Prozium · May 20, 2015

I will be printing it on my SeemeCNC Rostock Max v2 (that has a hight mod...not that it is needed for this, lol.)
All the walls that will be holding water are about 1/4" thick.
I'll print a test cup and see what it does.

Oscaror · May 20, 2015

Hope it goes well! My friend has a 3D printer, they're awesome!

cope413 · May 21, 2015

If you'd like help printing anything, or need some help with materials, I work at MatterHackers and I'd love to help out if needed and even feature this on our site if you'd like. I wrote the article for R2R on 3D printing a month or two ago, and this is a perfect follow up to that.

cope413 · May 21, 2015

Oh, and nice choice with the Max. I own a v1 that recently hit the 4000 hour mark. Great machines from a great company

Prozium · May 21, 2015

The Reef Radiance NANO 60 would be a perfect fit on top of this tank, it would be pre-built (less soldering for me is a good thing!), dimmable, no bulky power supply hanging out the back somewhere, and it would actually save me some money! http://reefradiance.com/nano-60.html
I also want to switch out the white for black so the fuge light won't light up my room so much at night.

here is about what it would look like.

Not sure if I want white or orange trim... kind of liking the orange and black, ATM. (I will have to order the black, and only have white and orange ATM, and don't want to spend more then necessary on this.)
Also, I might be bugged by the aluminum, so Might end up making a cover plate that has holes that match the vents.

cope413 said:
If you'd like help printing anything, or need some help with materials, I work at MatterHackers and I'd love to help out if needed...

Thanks for the offer!

cope413 said:
...and even feature this on our site if you'd like. I wrote the article for R2R on 3D printing a month or two ago, and this is a perfect follow up to that.

I wouldn't mind it if you did.

cope413 said:
Oh, and nice choice with the Max. I own a v1 that recently hit the 4000 hour mark. Great machines from a great company

Yeah, with all the features and build volume it can't be beat, IMO. The fact they are a good company is just icing on the cake!

joshbbert · May 21, 2015

Those are great lights and it would def save you a little work. The sump looks killer! I use a little national geographic heater in my 2.5 sump I believe its 10w works perfect very very small

its a set temp tho keeps mine right at 78.2