3d Printed Aquarium Parts Archive

[Projects with Sam]

that is awesome, I am looking into purchasing a second printer. I can't keep myself satisfied with only one, ender 3 with the auto bed leveler and pei sheet. I am using PETG plastic and can hit about 65 mm/s , will have to look into the ender 5 model. wowzers !

That is why core XY printers are so much better then bed slingers and why I am so surprised Prusa is still releasing bed slingers and expecting people to pay what they're asking.

 

[randalli]

Hey, I design things for my tank from time to time. Check out these links. Maybe you like something for the list

• 1 inch Clover Nozzle
• Aqua Medic Armatus Lid Protector
• Utility Tray ... can be clipped onto 10mm class. I use it for my Rondamat automatic feeder
• D-D Jump Guard Feeding Well/Chute Insert for the Feeding Portal
• simple and light 140mm fan holding system for cooling purposes
• Aqua Medic Multi-Reactor M - Gen 1 ... can be put around the outlet holes of the gen 1 to control water lever inside the reactor and therefore reduce noice. Gen 2 has this natively.
• Red Sea Media Cup Spacer ... multipurpose:
  • drastically reduces amount of filter floss needed
  • Other things like carbon or zeolite could be put in the lower part

 

[Erick Camargo]

Nice posts!
helped me a lot!

Does anyone have that corner magnetic rocks (resin) .stl files to share?

I love that rocks and it really helps to hold some frags away from the bottom.

 

[Mschmidt]

I made this thing. It holds glue.

Super Glue holder by requires_supervision

This is to easily hold five containers of Gorilla glue super glue. It fits magnets in the pack (pictured). I may remake it when I learn how to design keyholes for hanging via screws, but that day isn't today. until that time I also added the fusion file for your adjustments.

www.thingiverse.com

 

[D3DPrintedThingz]

I love this 3D printer so much. I’ve started taking multiple .stl files and putting them together in cura to make special pieces. Also have a torch growing out of the dragon skull I printed

 

[Projects with Sam]

I love this 3D printer so much. I’ve started taking multiple .stl files and putting them together in cura to make special pieces. Also have a torch growing out of the dragon skull I printed

fun stuff! looks great! wait till you start tinkerCAD/Fusion360!

 

[stoney7713]

fun stuff! looks great! wait till you start tinkerCAD/Fusion360!

I played with Blender last night.... Woah

 

[D3DPrintedThingz]

Fusion 360 is actually pretty easy to teach yourself, once I set up an external monitor specifically dedicated to it. Designed a sock holder because none of the ones online I was too happy with.

 

[D3DPrintedThingz]

Any skimmer stand stl out there?

do you still need a skimmer stand .stl? I've made a couple of them , would love for you to give them a try

 

[D3DPrintedThingz]

Anyone have any tips or pointers on how to remove a stuck nozzle on an ender v2 neo? I have tried with the wrench that comes with the printer and also a ratchet. It is stuck to the point that it is stripping the nozzle, but won't budge. I have heated the printer to 246 C which is the temp I print PETG. I am at a wit's end and there are no videos on how to remove a stuck nozzle, only videos on how to normally remove nozzles.

 

[Sisterlimonpot]

Anyone have any tips or pointers on how to remove a stuck nozzle on an ender v2 neo? I have tried with the wrench that comes with the printer and also a ratchet. It is stuck to the point that it is stripping the nozzle, but won't budge. I have heated the printer to 246 C which is the temp I print PETG. I am at a wit's end and there are no videos on how to remove a stuck nozzle, only videos on how to normally remove nozzles.

Normally, what you did should've worked. It sounds like the nozzle was put on too tight or it was cross threaded.

Either way, I see that your future holds more frustration. I'm not familiar with enders, does the entire hot end rotate when you try to remove the nozzle? Are you able to get a wrench or pliers onto the heat block?

 

[neonreef3d]

Anyone have any tips or pointers on how to remove a stuck nozzle on an ender v2 neo? I have tried with the wrench that comes with the printer and also a ratchet. It is stuck to the point that it is stripping the nozzle, but won't budge. I have heated the printer to 246 C which is the temp I print PETG. I am at a wit's end and there are no videos on how to remove a stuck nozzle, only videos on how to normally remove nozzles.

bump the temp on the nozzle to 280C, that should help loosen the junk in there.. and Use a proper tool to remove the nozzle. a 1.5nM torque driver by slice engeneering.

 

[Projects with Sam]

may want to order replacement parts for these. even if you get it fixed this time, it's nice to have the parts on-hand.

 

[D3DPrintedThingz]

Normally, what you did should've worked. It sounds like the nozzle was put on too tight or it was cross threaded.

Either way, I see that your future holds more frustration. I'm not familiar with enders, does the entire hot end rotate when you try to remove the nozzle? Are you able to get a wrench or pliers onto the heat block?

Yea I am frustrated as I have two ender printers and completely took apart the 'older' one and put it back together after about 6 months of use because it stopped working. after putting it back together it runs better than it ever did, so I am not completely useless when it comes to mechanical investigation.

I didn't use an open wrench to hold the block in place. But I don't think it would have helped and here is why. When I twisted the nozzle initially I noticed the heater block would swivel slightly in the same direction. At first I thought I was going to break the hot end completely, but it held together because of the two screws that hold the hot end together snugly. This will be something I try today when I get home, but the brass nozzle literally stripped before the nozzle starting moving. Holding it in place or not holding it in place, the stripping would still happen before anything budges. I am truly at a loss and hoping there is something I can do other than replacing the entire hot end

 

[D3DPrintedThingz]

bump the temp on the nozzle to 280C, that should help loosen the junk in there.. and Use a proper tool to remove the nozzle. a 1.5nM torque driver by slice engeneering.

The nozzle maxes out at 260 C , I tried running it at that temp for a couple of minutes but still didn't budge

may want to order replacement parts for these. even if you get it fixed this time, it's nice to have the parts on-hand.

I ordered replacement silicone shields and have a bunch of extra nozzles from when I ordered the blue tubing to replace the junky white tubing that connects extruder to hot end. Just seems so crazy that both printers crapped out on me within 24 hours of each other

 

[D3DPrintedThingz]

also forgot to mention I have designed this AWESOME three tiered frag rack with removable frag racks that will fit snug in a 40 Breeder. This thing is SICK and I can't even start printing test pieces to see if it works. This is the design scaled down to 40% so I could put the two pieces together and the racks to see if all the sides match up and of course they did but can I print them? no so I just sit and look at fusion 360 thinking about how awesome these will be

 

[Sisterlimonpot]

Yea I am frustrated as I have two ender printers and completely took apart the 'older' one and put it back together after about 6 months of use because it stopped working. after putting it back together it runs better than it ever did, so I am not completely useless when it comes to mechanical investigation.

I didn't use an open wrench to hold the block in place. But I don't think it would have helped and here is why. When I twisted the nozzle initially I noticed the heater block would swivel slightly in the same direction. At first I thought I was going to break the hot end completely, but it held together because of the two screws that hold the hot end together snugly. This will be something I try today when I get home, but the brass nozzle literally stripped before the nozzle starting moving. Holding it in place or not holding it in place, the stripping would still happen before anything budges. I am truly at a loss and hoping there is something I can do other than replacing the entire hot end

You're definitely on the right track, and you seem to have common sense which will make up for your lack of mechanical understanding. If you have a pair of vise grips, get the hot end as hot as you safely can and lock onto the nozzle and try to work it back and forth (trying to break it free). Keeping an eye on the hear block, you might have to use another wrench or pliers to hold onto that.

I can't imagine the brass tip giving you much of a fight when you bring out the big guns.

 

[D3DPrintedThingz]

You're definitely on the right track, and you seem to have common sense which will make up for your lack of mechanical understanding. If you have a pair of vise grips, get the hot end as hot as you safely can and lock onto the nozzle and try to work it back and forth (trying to break it free). Keeping an eye on the hear block, you might have to use another wrench or pliers to hold onto that.

I can't imagine the brass tip giving you much of a fight when you bring out the big guns.

would it be a horrible idea to take a torch lighter to the nozzle? I Only thing I can think is there is some silicone that got up in the threads and it doesn't loosen until about 280 C so the silicone is locking it in place. will try with the vice grips. I'll take a video of it today when I try again and show all of you what I am working with see if that sparks any ideas

 

[Mschmidt]

Anyone have any tips or pointers on how to remove a stuck nozzle on an ender v2 neo? I have tried with the wrench that comes with the printer and also a ratchet. It is stuck to the point that it is stripping the nozzle, but won't budge. I have heated the printer to 246 C which is the temp I print PETG. I am at a wit's end and there are no videos on how to remove a stuck nozzle, only videos on how to normally remove nozzles.

Can you try to heat the block leaving the nozzle a few degrees cooler? That might expand the block enough to loosen it.

 

[Sisterlimonpot]

would it be a horrible idea to take a torch lighter to the nozzle? I Only thing I can think is there is some silicone that got up in the threads and it doesn't loosen until about 280 C so the silicone is locking it in place. will try with the vice grips. I'll take a video of it today when I try again and show all of you what I am working with see if that sparks any ideas

I wouldn't use a torch unless you can ensure you're not going to melt the surrounding plastic components and wire insulation.

I highly doubt that silicone is what's preventing it from breaking free. Even if you're at 240C, it will soften it enough to give way.