3D Printing thread

What in the world are you doing that breaks your thermistor that much? Testing lava temps with your printer isn't advised afaik






:D

+1

Ive never broken a thermistor..... No idea how that happens lol. Like if you are unscrewing the heat block, unscrew the thermistor first.....



Downloaded this Octoprint plugin to check my bed level- made a fine adjustment, and less than .04mm across the entire bed :)

Thats .0016", for you American losers xD @dantimdad
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The wires get damaged either by failed prints or by my clumsy butt while removing the hotend. It's a bigger issue on the printers I built with cheap parts 2 years ago, not so much on the ender 3 printers since they don't require as much maintenance.

My d-bot bed is dead level because I welded a jig for bending it straight when I got it bent out of the box.

My ender 3 beds are pretty close. I use manual mesh leveling with them and haven't had to adjust them in months.

My first printer is a mess. Every time I have to mess with it I am tempted to tear it apart and salvage part for other projects (like when I pulled out a thermistor wire last night while removing the hotend to switch nozzles).
 
Would you be able to share the STL for the DCS 6000 needle wheel by any chance? I've been meaning to make one for ages so that I can get my old skimmer up and running again with a DCS 6000 but I have been flat out the last couple of months and haven't had a chance. It would save me a heap of time if there was already an STL out there :)

Will share it tomorow :)
 
Anybody do any printing with ceramics?
I know the printers exist, and I've often though it would be cool to print frag plugs, discs, or even base rock with ceramic and then kiln fire it.

I have a kiln big enough for 18" x 18" x 24" pieces, just need the printer... not that I nee another hobby : /
 

I use Bill Helyubuck ender 3 leveling squares after I use the sheet of paper to get it roughly level.

Now, I just use a skirt to start the print (or brim on really long stuff) and adjust on the fly by what I see.

I tried the EZABL and found it to be more trouble than it was worth and the firmware from it was terrible.

I reflashed my ender 3 to stock marlin with thermal runaway protection and am happier now.
 
Random note, the Creality Pro is dialed in and running sexy... I am about 30 days away from ordering the Prusa :D Three printers running full time :D

My second ender 3 is running better than the first. LOL!

I am going to try an all metal hotend on the old one because, even with different hotend fixes, I am still getting ooze once in a while. The all metal hotend will fix that because the Bowden tube doesn't go all the way to the heatblock. At least that's the plan. :)
 
Anybody do any printing with ceramics?
I know the printers exist, and I've often though it would be cool to print frag plugs, discs, or even base rock with ceramic and then kiln fire it.

I have a kiln big enough for 18" x 18" x 24" pieces, just need the printer... not that I nee another hobby : /
I know there have been some designs for syringe extruders.

I like your line of thought.

Honestly though, I've printed a bunch of stuff for plug makers. They make a silicone or sand mold and just pour emarco in.
 
ok leveled bed pegt wont stay stuck nozzle temp 220 and bed 60 any ideas

it can be one of 3 things.

Bed distance from nozle, Bed temp or nozzle temp.. I run my temp at 236/ 82 for petg .. and have a bit more distance then for pla. the bead needs to lay down onto the bed and not squished like you need for pla....

hope this helps
 
not even 6 calendar days later and my mk3s is in my hands. Impressed

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Dude I hope you greased bearings before assembly.... it’s a PITA to take apart otherwise.

https://prusacommunity.com/set-your-bearing-straight/

I recconend this greaser, for superlube.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3467168

Proper grease:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0081JE0OO?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_pd_title


Printed mine on the ender 3. Nothing wrong with that printer.... works great.

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it can be one of 3 things.

Bed distance from nozle, Bed temp or nozzle temp.. I run my temp at 236/ 82 for petg .. and have a bit more distance then for pla. the bead needs to lay down onto the bed and not squished like you need for pla....

hope this helps

I run at 230/68 on the glass bed for PETG and what @Erica-Renee said about squish is correct.

It also depends on the printer.

You could also try aqua net unscented mega hold. I don't need it anymore since I got my leveling/temps down pat but it works really well while you are learning.
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

  • Yes!

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  • Not yet, but I have one that I want to buy in mind!

    Votes: 9 12.9%
  • No.

    Votes: 26 37.1%
  • Other (please explain).

    Votes: 3 4.3%

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