it would probably be similar to a colander - you know, the thing you drain your noodles with - LOL
I'll draw something up
3D Printing thread
- Thread starter PurpleMonster
- Start date
- Tagged users None
I'll draw something up
Made these for a friend of mine, very simplistic but get's the job done.
Shelves for the litermeter iii master and slave
Master:
Slave (also can be used for the ATO UPLC II)
Thingiverse Master
Thingiverse Slave
Shelves for the litermeter iii master and slave
Master:
Slave (also can be used for the ATO UPLC II)
Thingiverse Master
Thingiverse Slave
Kyl
And how does it feel like, to wake up in the sun
Nice! I've gotten the most joy out of 3dprinting some of the simplest things you could think of. It's really a hobby that's made to compliment tons of other niche hobbies.Made these for a friend of mine, very simplistic but get's the job done.
Shelves for the litermeter iii master and slave
Master:
Slave (also can be used for the ATO UPLC II)
Thingiverse Master
Thingiverse Slave
PETG is a pretty sure bet - its what we us to print all our parts that are designed for use in the water
However, some brands of PLA seem to have no issues. I've had PLA parts printed in eSun PLA Plus filament in my personal tank for more than year with no visible signs of any issues. Most of the PLA-Plus, -Pro filaments out there are usually blended with varying degrees of PETG or ABS
dantimdad
7500 Club Member
I bet that would work. Except I might try a cone on the bottom instead.OK - I'll go against the grain here - make a slight design change to the cup. Make the bottom more like a dome , flip the part over and print it with NO supports
it will be faster and you wont have to clean much up.
dantimdad
7500 Club Member
I can tell you from using over a dozen rolls of it that HQA PETG is very easy to print on my three enders. Plus, the colors are just amazing.
If you buy two rolls at once on their site, shipping is free.
The also have partial rolls so you can test.
dantimdad
7500 Club Member
Made these for a friend of mine, very simplistic but get's the job done.
Shelves for the litermeter iii master and slave
Master:
Slave (also can be used for the ATO UPLC II)
Thingiverse Master
Thingiverse Slave
Simple tends to be best! Nice job!
dantimdad
7500 Club Member
I would be careful with that. Most filaments are not structural enough for it. Now, if you just built brackets and made the main structures out of aluminum, that would work.
I printed little corner brackets to hold aluminum channel in my floating canopy. I then screwed the lights to the channel.
I printed little corner brackets to hold aluminum channel in my floating canopy. I then screwed the lights to the channel.
dantimdad
7500 Club Member
I prefer to
For the HQA it's
Standard bed 65/230
Glass bed 70/230
I use mainly .3mm layers on a .4mm nozzle
Speed is 70mm/sec most of the time but I have a ludicrous speed setup I use once in a while for terrible draft quality.
Hope this helps.
here's rough idea. I think it would work, but the bottom of the cup may need just bit less round for it to print cleanly with no supports
here's rough idea. I think it would work, but the bottom of the cup may need just bit less round for it to print cleanly with no supports
Nice design- similar to how I print COR20 guards. Though I do put a single circle of support in the middle, just to keep it flat.
we pretty much exclusive us eSun filament. When we are printing in PLA, it's usually the PLA+ version
Entz
Active Member
I have good luck with Amazons filament both PLA and black PETG but the only advantage to it is cheap shipping.
Regarding the cup. Just watch the dimensions if you do the tall version. I am not completely familiar with that 3D model but Red Seas original in a Red Sea sump doesn't leave a massive amount of room between it and the bottom of the sump. A couple of inches at most, so the "colander" would need to be fairly shallow. The short one would be fine though.
Regarding print settings, don't be afraid to fail and tweak. What works for someone might not work for you because of modifications. Mine isn't an Ender 3 (remixed Ender 3 Pro basically) but I found I need to print PETG slow. Max 40 and need 80/75 bed and 240 on the extruder.
Regarding the cup. Just watch the dimensions if you do the tall version. I am not completely familiar with that 3D model but Red Seas original in a Red Sea sump doesn't leave a massive amount of room between it and the bottom of the sump. A couple of inches at most, so the "colander" would need to be fairly shallow. The short one would be fine though.
Regarding print settings, don't be afraid to fail and tweak. What works for someone might not work for you because of modifications. Mine isn't an Ender 3 (remixed Ender 3 Pro basically) but I found I need to print PETG slow. Max 40 and need 80/75 bed and 240 on the extruder.
