5 feet Immersive Build (slow and steady updates)

[Picesduh]

Love the build! I’m in the process of setting up a 140g peninsula but the correct way, sticking out in the way of everything lol. (Per the wife) I’m using t-slot to build a light rack for it. Really wanted to do a stand like yours but mine came with a steel stand already. Where did you order your t-slot from and what kind hardware did you use with it? Really love the stand and looking forward to updates...

Forgot to reply to this...
Building out of t slot aluminum is great and very rewarding. Some of you prob figured it out that I did not design the stand. I copied a design from a YouTube Video - Search for Beverly Hills Aquarium it should be one of the first ones. But that stand is made of wood so I had a render of it made and ordered the profiles and hardware from Tnutz. Robert at Tnutz was great to work with and will make/have almost any part even if it’s not listed on the site. I had to write out my own part list from the render and measure each one several times so I ordered the right pieces and quantity. So far it worked out and my stand is super Strong. Originally I was going to go with 8020.net but I for a few of the profiles and hardware it was a 3-4 week lead time for the parts to be machined whereas tnutz was taking only days and was cheaper. I used approx 100 Anchor fasteners on the build and all of it is 15 series. 30x30 for the seven verticals and 15x30 for most of the rest.

 

[Picesduh]

Just tinkering around with the plumbing and fittings I ordered and so far came up with this:

 

[Picesduh]

Almost ready for its final placement. Took the bottom floor off to seal and paint, which will be done this week. Making the final structural adjustments before this thing is up and running.

 

[Picesduh]

After 4 days of cutting and gluing pvc pipe the plumbing is finally curing. I underestimated the time it would take to plumb a sump, external fuge, drain for water changer and water mixing station, and ATO refill all into one system. Pics to come.

 

[Atti2de]

After 4 days of cutting and gluing pvc pipe the plumbing is finally curing. I underestimated the time it would take to plumb a sump, external fuge, drain for water changer and water mixing station, and ATO refill all into one system. Pics to come.

Hurry up with the pictures. Interested to see your drain for water plumbing.

 

[cracker]

Looking real clean & well designed .

 

[Tabasco1]

Love the canopy design. I have an 8020 stand and may have to upgrade to this design. ... once I get the skinning figured out. Thanks for sharing!

Put together the light mount using black aluminum 15 series profile. The Aquatic Life Hybrid fixture fits like a glove in the frame I made. Even better the mount came out perfect on all measurements. I’m so proud of myself.

Frame installed on top of tank (Hybrid fixture was removed during this step)

 

[Picesduh]

Love the canopy design. I have an 8020 stand and may have to upgrade to this design. ... once I get the skinning figured out. Thanks for sharing!

Thanks!

I used these all around the inside to hold the Hybrid fixture. It has two rubber pieces that gives it a nice cushion for the light to sit on. Just make sure you add a 1/4 inch on all sides to account for the thickness for these on both sides of the fixture. It’s not exactly 1/4 thick but some wiggle room is there

 

[Tabasco1]

My SCA tank water level was about 1 3/4" from the bottom of the eurobrace, which visually bothered me. Not sure if you have water in your tank yet, but I did adjust the weir so that my water level is a less than 1" now.

Picked up a sheet of relatively thin acrylic from home depot and cut 3/4" strips and siliconed to the back of the teeth which essentially shortened the teeth height and raised the water level. Was sort of a PIA, but I'm so much happier with the water level.

Unfortunately I did not take pics. Meant to, but forgot. It's not pretty from the inside of the weir, but absolutely not visible when viewing the tank.

Well so far it’s an empty glass container in the middle of my dining room, literally in the middle since I moved it to paint the wall it’s going to be up against (I thought it was a peninsula? - yes but for the time being it is going to be a corner tank with only two sides viewable) In the future it will be a true peninsula.

Right now I have my rock curing and need to build the canopy and an electric panel. After these two I’m going to plumb the tank and water test it. I am hoping the water level is not to much lower than 2 inches from the top of the tank (1 inch from the bottom of the Eurobrace). I see a lot of SCA tanks with a lower water level mainly because of the recessed Eurobracing. But this method of bracing seems to be stronger but that’s just my guess based on looking at it. After I find out the exact water level I’ll need to drain the tank and then install the canopy to cover the top of the tank just low enough to cover the water level. Honestly I’m on the wall about the canopy but I’m planning on making it match with the stand wrap and it gives a more finished look. Here is the tank as you will see it when you walk into the house (plus the water , fish, corals , wrap, etc)

And when sitting at the dining table (sorry for the awful glare)

 

[Picesduh]

My SCA tank water level was about 1 3/4" from the bottom of the eurobrace, which visually bothered me. Not sure if you have water in your tank yet, but I did adjust the weir so that my water level is a less than 1" now.

Picked up a sheet of relatively thin acrylic from home depot and cut 3/4" strips and siliconed to the back of the teeth which essentially shortened the teeth height and raised the water level. Was sort of a PIA, but I'm so much happier with the water level.

Unfortunately I did not take pics. Meant to, but forgot. It's not pretty from the inside of the weir, but absolutely not visible when viewing the tank.

I haven’t filled it yet. I designed the canopy height so my canopy wrap will cover 2.5 inches from the top of the tank. I think that’s about 1.5 inches below the eurobrace. I might have to do what you did and add a piece of acrylic to the weir. Is there any disadvantages to that mod?

 

[Tabasco1]

I have not noticed any downside to this modification. I am using the tank as intended with the herbie style overflow. And because of this I was not able to modify the emergency stand pipe because it sits just below the T for the return flow plumbing. This mod did change the drop from the tank overflow from about 1/2" to about 1 1/2", but this did not change how loud the overflow is. I was a little worried about that since I knew that the fall into the overflow compartment would increase slightly.

As far as the 1" water line. I run two 230 gyres on either end of the tank at about 70% max and there is not enough turbulence at the surface to cause any issue. I suppose if you had enough turbulence it could hit the bottom of the eurobrace.

Because of the design of the overflow box the mod to the weir does not direct ALL of the water over the weir. But most of it and enough that the mod will adjust the water line.

Not sure why SCA designs the tanks with the low water line or why it is not discussed more.

I'll try to take some pictures. A little hard now that it is installed. Don't want to drop the phone into the tank.

 

[Picesduh]

Added lights to the stand and mounted AC Infinity fans inside stand and on the light mount as well. These have individual remotes but they all can also work using one digital controller. Also moved the tank to its final location. Still need to install wrap for stand and canopy but take a look :

Full tank shot:

Drain and return plumbing:

Sump and Fuge

Manifold:

Water mixing station:

Mixing station connection tee off to return mixed salt water to tank or return fresh water to ATO chamber:

Electric panel and Fans:

Update: I started filling one of the container to make salt water (for my current tank not this new one yet) and found out that the pan world pump I have had a hair line crack and started leaking. I immediately turned off the ball valve and disconnected the pump. Called BRS and they are going to replace it for me. Small set back for the mixing station. Next update will be water test of the tank. Slightly nervous....

 

[Picesduh]

Turns out that both sch 80 bulkheads are leaking but the sch 40 bulkheads are not. Oddly when I try to loosen the Sch 80 bulkhead it’s too easy even if I hand tighten the bulkhead as much as possible going the other way is too easy - I must be weak..

 

[Picesduh]

We are Klir for lift off!

 

[Picesduh]

The tank is full of water and yesterday I turned on the return pump for the very first time and the water went in all the right places!! Had only one very small leak in one of the pvc 90 connections which was right above the sump so I just let that be and went to bed.

I have to adjust the overflow to make it quiet but pretty much been listening to a constant waterfall all day. Not really bothering me but at some point I’ll raise the pipe so the fall isn’t that far down the overflow.

I put in the Pukani rocks I had curing, honestly I just couldn’t wait to start aquascaping the tank and put in half the rocks in the tank (the other half are coming from my current tank). No point of sharing a picture of half the scape so no pic this week. Btw do I turn on the lights when the tank is cycling?

 

[Picesduh]

Looking down the length of the tank is my new favorite view.

 

[Atti2de]

We are Klir for lift off!

Interested in how this works. Please update us on how you like it.

How wide is it where it goes through the top of the sump?

 

[Picesduh]

Slightly less than 4 inches. I’ll measure exact once I’m home.

 

[Twocorns]

What are your tank dimensions? And is that SCAs standard overflow for their peninsula tanks?

 

[Picesduh]

It’s 60x26x19.

I’m not sure if that’s the standard overflow for SCA. Ive actually never seen a SCA with a coast to coast overflow on the short side but Steve at SCA made this custom for me.