$600 system build - well that's the plan......
- Thread starter MJH01
- Start date
- Tagged users None
OP
OP
MJH01
Community Member
- Joined
- Dec 30, 2016
- Messages
- 37
- Reaction score
- 55
- Location
- Houston
- What state or country do you live in
- Texas
After a strip down I was able to get to the LEDs and investigate further. With the use of my multi-meter set on diode check I was able to connect the correct polarity across the diode and visibly see them illuminate if still operational. The two units ended up needing a total of seven 14,000k cool white LEDs from Reef Breeders, at $1.99 each. Quite an easy fix. The only point to note is the cheap design of the unit has the diode running in series so if one fails the complete string goes out, this also means that a failure down the line can also over current earlier diodes. This was found out the hard way when I located a failed diode, replaced, then powered up only to see another failure of a unit that had already been tested as good. But now I have two operating units to get me going.
PSXerholic
Valuable Member
- Joined
- Nov 3, 2015
- Messages
- 2,010
- Reaction score
- 3,204
- Location
- Houston
- What state or country do you live in
- Texas
Great stuff, these are more then sufficient.Tonight' s task is to set up the RODI unit from the filterguys ready for cooking some dry rocks!
Later on, when you are further into the hobby, and you are tired of manual operation, Filterguys have a good sized bladder type reservoir you can hook up at the end of it with a hand valve.
Keep in mind to run a few gallons of Rodi water per week if not in use to keep a higher lifetime of the membrane and cartridges.
For replacement of the DI cartridges in Houston I found the SI and color changing DI resin combo cartridge from spectrapure is the best.
It keeps silicates low and lasts longer, but is a bit higher in price.
Can't wait to see the rocks cooking and take a water sample to see if the rocks are good to use!
They looked and smelled good for use. The phosphate and phosphorus as well copper test will bring clarity ;-)
Andre
OP
OP
MJH01
Community Member
- Joined
- Dec 30, 2016
- Messages
- 37
- Reaction score
- 55
- Location
- Houston
- What state or country do you live in
- Texas
Well a lot has gone on in the last month or so and I thought it was time for an update containing all of it! The 60lb of dead rock that had been sat on a garage floor for over 6 months went into the 55g container (the cheap black one with yellow lid in HD) on the 8th January. It was accompanied by a heater, skimmer and small circulation pump.
Day 2 an indicative test was done with API which showed approx 1.0ppm, a friend checked with a digital meter and it read 0,75ppm. At this point a reactor containing GFO was added and started adding 5ml of vodka daily. Day 4 a starter vial of bacteria was added, phosphates checked and visual reduction seen.
Day 6 Ammonia showing approx 1ppm, 0.5ppm Nitrite and zero nitrate.
Day 8 4ppm Ammonia, 1ppm nitrite, increasing Nitrate and phosphates very low.
Day 11 less that 0.25ppm ammonia, 0.5ppm nitrite, 10ppm Nitrate and phosphate zero on API but 0.1ppm on digital. AT this point the GFO was turned off.
Day 13 Nitrate dropping and phosphate remaining low.
Day 16 everything reading zero, Vodka stopped, Cycle complete.
Day 2 an indicative test was done with API which showed approx 1.0ppm, a friend checked with a digital meter and it read 0,75ppm. At this point a reactor containing GFO was added and started adding 5ml of vodka daily. Day 4 a starter vial of bacteria was added, phosphates checked and visual reduction seen.
Day 6 Ammonia showing approx 1ppm, 0.5ppm Nitrite and zero nitrate.
Day 8 4ppm Ammonia, 1ppm nitrite, increasing Nitrate and phosphates very low.
Day 11 less that 0.25ppm ammonia, 0.5ppm nitrite, 10ppm Nitrate and phosphate zero on API but 0.1ppm on digital. AT this point the GFO was turned off.
Day 13 Nitrate dropping and phosphate remaining low.
Day 16 everything reading zero, Vodka stopped, Cycle complete.
OP
OP
MJH01
Community Member
- Joined
- Dec 30, 2016
- Messages
- 37
- Reaction score
- 55
- Location
- Houston
- What state or country do you live in
- Texas
In parallel to the rock cooking further work was done on the stand. LED light hangers. cheap timer strip with GFI distribution, blacked out rear glass and Durso tune.
The LED hangers were fabricated with some cheap 3/4" electrical conduit, conduit mounting brackets and square channel sections spanning the conduit. The conduit was bent by hand and cut to protrude 3/4's of the depth of the tank. It was fixed using three mounting brackets per side down the full depth of the tank. The square section was trimmed to about 1/4" overlap on the conduit. The section was then drilled to allow a cable tie to secure to the conduit. Once complete was all painted mat black.
The LED hangers were fabricated with some cheap 3/4" electrical conduit, conduit mounting brackets and square channel sections spanning the conduit. The conduit was bent by hand and cut to protrude 3/4's of the depth of the tank. It was fixed using three mounting brackets per side down the full depth of the tank. The square section was trimmed to about 1/4" overlap on the conduit. The section was then drilled to allow a cable tie to secure to the conduit. Once complete was all painted mat black.
OP
OP
MJH01
Community Member
- Joined
- Dec 30, 2016
- Messages
- 37
- Reaction score
- 55
- Location
- Houston
- What state or country do you live in
- Texas
The timer strip was simply mounted on an old wooden shelf with wooden 'stand offs'. The wiring from the timer to the GFI outlets was made using some old 15A computer power leads with the ends cut off. The thought was that there would be a dedicated channel for 1. lights, 2. main pump and protein skimmer 3. Wavemaker and heater.
OP
OP
MJH01
Community Member
- Joined
- Dec 30, 2016
- Messages
- 37
- Reaction score
- 55
- Location
- Houston
- What state or country do you live in
- Texas
From the dry run in the garage with vinegar/water then pure tap water it was obvious the drop from the overflow baffles into the chamber was too great and causing too much noise. This was with the closest coupled fittings (tee, straight and cap), I used the dremmel to reduce the tee and cap to a 1/2" slip interface and reduced the length of the straight. This moved the whole top section up approximately 1-1/4". The 'waterfall' was minimal and the noise drastically reduced. Finally the cap was painted black to make it less obvious.
PSXerholic
Valuable Member
- Joined
- Nov 3, 2015
- Messages
- 2,010
- Reaction score
- 3,204
- Location
- Houston
- What state or country do you live in
- Texas
Well great progress so far !!!
I guess I bring you a few Addons tomorrow.
Being already ULNS just with a bit of Vodka and Biodigest in the beginning while curing the rock, did turn out awesome.
Fully cycled with almost no efforts.
Too bad people only know half the story ;-)
This tank does rock in the first few weeks already...........amazing amazing !!!!!
Hope you get the Stump Remover quickly ................
-Andre
I guess I bring you a few Addons tomorrow.
Being already ULNS just with a bit of Vodka and Biodigest in the beginning while curing the rock, did turn out awesome.
Fully cycled with almost no efforts.
Too bad people only know half the story ;-)
This tank does rock in the first few weeks already...........amazing amazing !!!!!
Hope you get the Stump Remover quickly ................
-Andre
Frop
Valuable Member
Frop
Valuable Member
Internal coated with white flex seal and caulked all joins
I just stained my stand too. The white being inside is a good idea :/
