861 TDS from the Tap... any ideas?

The second membrane can be ruined if their is not enough pressure through the system. The booster pump will help with that.

You won't see much of a tds reduction after just the pre filters. It's the ro membrane that does the heavy lifting there. The DI stage will remove what the membrane doesn't. You'll be better off running just one membrane until you get the pressure up, IMO.

Order the big bag of resin from BRS. Sounds like you'll need it. And I second getting their chloramine block as well.

My input water is 535 from the tap. 8 after my ro. And 0 after the pro series resin from BRS. I do not check it after the pre filters.
 
I wish I could like this post twice.
Thank you for the suggestions. I will do this.

No problem man, You may get a water report back and discover you'd be better off going 1 micron, carbon and carbon again before you even get to your Membrane.
 
You know - that is something I need to gain a better understanding about: the purpose and function of each filtration stage in an RO system. Another example would be I have no idea what Anion and Cation are for - I just know they super polish the water down to nothing. I’ll look around for some resources and combine that with what I learn from a more comprehensive water test.
 
You know - that is something I need to gain a better understanding about: the purpose and function of each filtration stage in an RO system. Another example would be I have no idea what Anion and Cation are for - I just know they super polish the water down to nothing. I’ll look around for some resources and combine that with what I learn from a more comprehensive water test.

One removes positive charged ions the other negative
 
You know - that is something I need to gain a better understanding about: the purpose and function of each filtration stage in an RO system. Another example would be I have no idea what Anion and Cation are for - I just know they super polish the water down to nothing. I’ll look around for some resources and combine that with what I learn from a more comprehensive water test.

Watch away

https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/brs-bulk-deionization-resin-color-changing.html

Scroll down in the results to the videos section, all the goodies are in there.
 
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FYI, look into the pressure switch for the pump. I have float valves on everything and valves to my auto, auto water chance reservoir on a Y splitter and everything shuts of automatically with back pressure on the pressure switch.
 
Lasse, can you provide a link to articles backing this up? If true, this is great. I've not seen Randy or anyone else mention this though.
Thank you,
Todd

I´m not a RoDi guy but I know a little about Chloramines. Some of them normally pass through the membrans but it is not any problems - normal ascorbic acid (vitamin C) in small quantities take it away. One teaspoon to around 100 litre of water do the thing and you can´t overdose. Do you have any idea what it is that makes so high TDS. Calcium? If your tap water is high in Calcium - the membran will be clogged very fast.

Sincerely Lasse
 
You know - that is something I need to gain a better understanding about: the purpose and function of each filtration stage in an RO system. Another example would be I have no idea what Anion and Cation are for - I just know they super polish the water down to nothing. I’ll look around for some resources and combine that with what I learn from a more comprehensive water test.

Yeah man, best few pieces of advice to give anybody about RODI IMO are

1. Make sure you have proper pressure
2. Get an actual water sample tested
3. Learn what each filter does and design your system around that
 
I have high TDS too, around 700. Spectrapure 99% RO gets me to around 8-10 depending on the season. Higher in summer.
 
QUICK UPDATE - I bypassed the second membrane and plugged the primary up to the prefilters -as suggested by @JoshH.

Readings went down 25 to 39 TDS. I’m shutting it back down now until I have the booster pump. This is very encouraging.


To everyone:
You guys are amazing. I’ve got a lot of takeaways to consider here.

Please keep the conversation going.
 
Please keep the conversation going.

That's one thing we are exceptionally good at ;) RODI systems can be daunting at first especially with such high TDS involved but with a little more research and probably 1 or two more new toys I'm sure you'll be up and running in no time.

+1 to @Diesel for tagging @Buckeye Hydro into the mix, they always have great sound advice as well.
 
That's one thing we are exceptionally good at ;) RODI systems can be daunting at first especially with such high TDS involved but with a little more research and probably 1 or two more new toys I'm sure you'll be up and running in no time.

+1 to @Diesel for tagging @Buckeye Hydro into the mix, they always have great sound advice as well.

If Russ don’t know nobody does.
 
Heck yeah.

PS -TDS down to 17.... who knew that dual membranes marketed as “water savers” would have such a negative impact on the quality of water in a low pressure situation. BRS certainly doesn’t advertise that one very well!

I’m looking forward to the parts so I can get to producing some better water. @jsker - I did go ahead and get the shut off valve with the pump. Thanks for looking out!
 
Heck yeah.

PS -TDS down to 17.... who knew that dual membranes marketed as “water savers” would have such a negative impact on the quality of water in a low pressure situation. BRS certainly doesn’t advertise that one very well!

I’m looking forward to the parts so I can get to producing some better water. @jsker - I did go ahead and get the shut off valve with the pump. Thanks for looking out!

BRS does actually state in one of there videos that if you have TDS OVER 300 they do not recommend running dual membranes but you have to watch the videos to know that ;)

https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/vide...e-two-rodi-membranes-more-efficient-than-one/
 
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Lasse, can you provide a link to articles backing this up? If true, this is great. I've not seen Randy or anyone else mention this though.
Thank you,
Todd

@TexasTodd Vitamin C is a known chemical dechlorinator. If memory serves, it strips the chlorine/chloramine molecules of its chlorine atom and gives it to a sodium atom - making salty water plus a few other compounds. Effectively it neutralized the chlorine almost immediately. I also recall sodium ascorbate affects ph less than ascorbic acid - both are considered vitamin C.

BIG DISCLAIMER - This is off of memory and I may have that all backwards. You’re own research may be required as my hands are quite full with this TDS issue.

Here is an EPA resource I just googled that should give you the long version:
EPA VitC Article
 
Lasse, can you provide a link to articles backing this up? If true, this is great. I've not seen Randy or anyone else mention this though.
Thank you,
Todd

First time I saw this was in an EPA article about use of Vitamin C in order to dechlorinate water used for dialysis at home. I can´t find it now but it was more than 20 years ago. Here in Sweden - where the water normally is very good but the use of Chloramine has rise - many aquarist use this trick today. In our water - the demand of C-vitamin is very low. 1 teaspoon to 100 litres is normally more than needed. It is a well proven trick

Post 36 in this thread give you the explanation and links too.

Sincerely Lasse
 
Add a water softener. Doesn’t need to be plumbed throughout the House. Just isolated to your RODI. Works wonders for the life of the system.
 
Interesting. I haven’t considered this. I guess I can see the merits of exchanging ions for something a little easier to filter and less likely to scale up the membranes. Is that how this works? Do you have any examples of water softeners designed to prefilter an RO feed? I’m only aware of the larger ones designed for larger whole-house solutions.
 

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