About ready to throw in the towel

mcgriff82

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I have a 75 gallon reef tank that has been up and running for about 4 months . It has a sump with a reef octopus skimmer,t 5 lighting (i think) , 2 circulating pumps. it probably has about 75 pounds of live rock. i have a 4 stage filter that i use for my water before i put it in the tank. for about 2 months i have had 3 blue demisels in the tank and they are doing great. the problem has been algae first it was green which has not been a problem as of late. the problem is red or brown algae i have tried to get rid of it but cant . I have done water changes , i have cleaned the rock and it just always comes right back. i could really use some help any ideals would be greatly appreciated
thanks
mike
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Dont give up!!
Check your po4
From what I see is there are nutrients that is feeding this algae.
Reduce the algae food and manual removal of the algae.
It takes time but you will overcome this :-)
 
cyano bacteria for sure. big water changes, increase your flow & cut back how long you leave your lights on until the problem is fixed. if this doesn't work look into using chemiclean the stuff works wonders but tur. off your skimmer & be prepared to do a big water change afterwards. Again i don't usually recommend chemicals but so try my first advice before heading down that road.
 
also is there any outside lighting hitting your tank maybe from a window or something? if so cover that & also add macro algae to your sump to eat up the nutrients this stuff needs to grow.
 
+1 for the above comments. Plus the tank has been set up for 4 months and still cycling.
 
Also worth a check is what kind of water you using for topoff?
Rodi is the best, if not then distilled
Would work. That is of your not using it already.
Nano Man
 
@brandon429 can help a ton with this. Brandon, would you mind jumping in with some advice and help with peroxide cleaning and forced tank compliance?
To the OP, don't give on it because of algae. Algae makes up a really large part of real reefs, so it's normal, although in a tank it's no fun. One thing you can do is take the LR out, scrub them in a bucket with some hydrogen peroxide in it, and the algae will bubble and die. You'll have some nasty water after you scrub the rock but it will make them super clean and won't hurt them at all. I do that all the time. Then you can try dosing peroxide in your tank at 1 mL per 10 gallons. It won't hurt anything. Corals produce a protein that actually gets rid of peroxide. The zooxanthellae in the corals produce H2o2 as a by product of photosynthesis so corals have adapted to it over time.
http://www.biogeosciences.net/11/4587/2014/bg-11-4587-2014.pdf

Here is a great thread from Brandon re: curing problems with peroxide:
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/reef2reef-pest-algae-challenge-thread-hydrogen-peroxide.187042/

Good luck man! Don't give up! Listen to @twilliard , he has helped me ID and rid my tank of a ton of pests. His advice will keep you on the hobby and happy with your tank
 
What I'm into 2016 and beyond:

Full tank cleaning not any partial. In six hours tomorrow reset entire tank, tons of $$ for full water change plus twenty rinse gallons getting ready, no nutrient sink no cycle if u take the tank apart and rinse it in a certain order.

The cause of your issue isn't actually nutrients although anyone is allowed to strip phosphate or dose meds in reaction to the emergence, all fair play.

The secret that will permanently change your reefing is hand guidance missing being the full and complete cause

Consider communities of algae-hungry animals in the wild, doing the guiding, we're missing

We have been told that using peroxide is a cheat but not the case imo via link here

It is not the defining factor in your turnaround, the peroxide. It's a cellular kill of algae currently left in the system. Other options exist, this one is just well-documented via pics

The razor scraping of the walls is export with no cheat. The removal of the sandbed for full cleaning is hard work, no chem no cheat work for the sandbed, the literal pump for the algae food, if we power clean and hand guide prevent from here on out you will never see this again.

Your problem isn't nutrients, its their source. Our whole hobby is built on hands off non guiding in fear of upset balance, not the case. For sure your whole tank can be parted apart completely, rinsed harshly, and put back together and its highly risky if one steps out of order :)

The alternative is continual waste sinking, where partial removal isn't going to keep up.

A huge amount of work and water change only money will fix your system. All nutrient sinks exported at once is all I can recommend.

Before anyone buzzsaws a little test rock does well

Lift rock out dump peroxide on bad parts let sit in air two mins cooking

Rinse well, don't hand remove algae we watch it die to chart kill times off one rock. Your whole rock then looks newish in four days but that's only topical. The real work is the detritus hidden in the rock to get at, but only if you like the look of the test rock in forty eight hours



It should be said many disagree with this forced tank compliance method I just like to type.

It is not possible for that algae to persist on a test rock after a small ID run. The turnaround for your tank is getting algae gone and all the food all at once, true hard work. If you truly manage nutrients by export you'll never need peroxide or any other total cheat. We literally cheat clean tanks with it, breaking core reef rules.
 
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I would try a good CUC, I know for a fact that turbo snails will work wonders on the hair algae. My overflow started to look like that, and within just a few days 6 turbos and 10 astrea snails had it slick as a whistle. And, they are fun to watch.
 
Tell us more about your "4 stage filter" That you are running "before the water returns to your tank"
 
I agree more information is needed about the water quality and the filtration. How was the water filtered before it was used to make saltwater? Is the four stage filtration in the sump or were you referring to an RO/DI filter? At four months old algae not not necessarily out of the norm for a saltwater aquarium. What is your light cycle?(how many hours per day?) Do you have water parameter test results? (Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate, Phosphates, Salinity, PH, Temperature)
 
I also found older bulbs in my lights make fighting/controlling algae a lot harder due to spectrum shift,
 
Cyano I'm guessing and it's usually down to nutrient export. You want to make sure you nitrate and phosphate is in check you will probably find its down to one of the two. If it's not it can only be down to too much light not enough flow and poor RO source but most cases it's down to phos and nitrate
 
People look at test kits with zero nitrate and phosphates and say there is none in the water. What you have to keep in mind with all that algea is that it is being consumed by it. Nutrients is what is feeding the algea. I would cut back on feedings, and get you a cuc in the tank.
 
I agree that more information is needed. I can tell you what my experience is. I have a biocube and Brandon instructed me to do a full tank clean due to a similar problem. I'll tell you that the method works, but you have to be very careful and rinse well. Using peroxide has worked for me too.

Once you have your tank cleaned up, have your maintenance in check. My little nano is sparkly clean. And I think you can have the same results after the same treatment. Just be sure to have the righ maintenance schedule to maintain your clean tank. Something got out of hand in your system and you'll need to prevent it. For my case, it was my sand. I bought a used tank, no telling how old the sand was. It was leaking nitrates an fueling algae growth.

Just be sure to properly quarantine your fish and corals! Get a small tank if you have to. Most of my deaths where when my fish and shrimps were in bags.

You can read my thread here:
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/ammonia-and-nitrate-problem-persisting.231126/

Keep in mind, mine is a nano but i think all reefs can follow the same concept of what Brandon promotes.

My rx is full tank clean, but be sure to have a good quarantine area so everything stays alive
 

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