Acceptable TDS range

[SPSReeferMI]

I believe I have a very similar RO filter - 5 stage from BRS. I get 1-2 TDS after 30 seconds on the “In” which is right after the RO membrane. If I flip the TDS meter to out, I get 0. This is after DI.

I took BRS’ suggestion and added a 2nd DI filter to mine so that I can exhaust the first one. This way, when my first DI filter begins to fade, I use it up and the second one takes over.

For reference, my initial DI membrane has churned out 200 gallons+ and is only half way done. Obviously my tap water is different from yours.

 

[Rscott]

I believe I have a very similar RO filter - 5 stage from BRS. I get 1-2 TDS after 30 seconds on the “In” which is right after the RO membrane. If I flip the TDS meter to out, I get 0. This is after DI.

I took BRS’ suggestion and added a 2nd DI filter to mine so that I can exhaust the first one. This way, when my first DI filter begins to fade, I use it up and the second one takes over.

For reference, my initial DI membrane has churned out 200 gallons+ and is only half way done. Obviously my tap water is different from yours.

And this is the issue
I am 150 gallons in and getting 2 tds

I have a dang near perfect town water report
We pay a ton of money for water in my town

I obviously should not be getting 150 gallons on this resin
Something is obviously wrong with the unit

 

[Camaro Show Corals]

only 0 is acceptable.

 

[lapin]

3 out of your R/O part means you prob have 150TDS source water if you have a 98% rejection membrane. I do not think this is perfect. I am on rainwater and my incoming tds is 18. The 3 that is getting thru must have something in it that is killing your resin. Most common is C02 usually associated with well water. Another issue can be water pressure. If you have lower pressure(under 60) the membrane will not work to maximum efficiency.
Perhaps @Buckeye Hydro will have some ideas

 

[Rscott]

3 out of your R/O part means you prob have 150TDS source water if you have a 98% rejection membrane. I do not think this is perfect. I am on rainwater and my incoming tds is 18. The 3 that is getting thru must have something in it that is killing your resin. Most common is C02 usually associated with well water. Another issue can be water pressure. If you have lower pressure(under 60) the membrane will not work to maximum efficiency.
Perhaps @Buckeye Hydro will have some ideas

Maybe that’s it? I’m at 48 psi?

 

[lapin]

Maybe that’s it? I’m at 48 psi?

That could be why more TDS is getting thru the R/O part. I dont know what the actual difference in numbers per pressure is. Buckeye would know this. At my house I have low pressure, (45 psi ). I had to install a booster pump and I have it set to run at 80 psi. It makes more water . But in my case my tds is so low I dont know if it made any difference in tds.

 

[W1ngz]

Where is the pressure gauge in the system, the input or after the filters? Before the membrane? What was the pressure when the unit was new?

 

[Rscott]

Where is the pressure gauge in the system, the input or after the filters? Before the membrane? What was the pressure when the unit was new?

Gauge is wherever BRS installs it?? Sorry I don’t know ?

Pressure was same when new

 

[lapin]

I was looking up some info and one scientific paper had this in it along with a bunch of fomulas
"Applying the fundamental equations of water flow and salt flow illustrates some of the basic principles of RO membranes. For example, salt passage is an inverse function of pressure; that is, the salt passage increases as applied pressure decreases. This is because reduced pressure decreases permeate flow rate, and hence, dilution of salt (the salt flows at a constant rate through the membrane as its rate of flow is independent of pressure)."

 

[lapin]

Where is the pressure gauge in the system, the input or after the filters? Before the membrane?

The BRS units have the gauge before the membranes. This way you know if you are losing pressure your sediment filters are clogged.

 

[W1ngz]

So he’s got 45 psi compared to 50 recommended and 30 minimum. That won’t have any effect on the 3 TDS out the membrane (which is pretty good) and still 2 TDS on the output. I don’t see how anything else going on here says anything other than depleted resin.

If he’s convinced the unit is defective he should argue that with BRS.

 

[Devaji]

I say low pressure and high incoming water TDS or like said something in the water is eating up your resin.
150 gals sucks we gotta figure this one out.

I try to replace mine at 1 but sometimes goes to 2 before I get around to going it. I am on well water with very high pressure my sediment filters needs replaced often. every water source is different.

have you tried different water sources in the house?? could be a rusty pipe? how old in the home metal, copper or pex pipe?
I have heard it's possible for corroded pipes to eat up DI resin.

good luck!

 

[Rscott]

If he’s convinced the unit is defective he should argue that with BRS.

Im not convinced of anything except my water is un-acceptable for the DT

After 150 gallons it should not be like this. That's all I know

 

[Rscott]

I say low pressure and high incoming water TDS or like said something in the water is eating up your resin.
150 gals sucks we gotta figure this one out.

I try to replace mine at 1 but sometimes goes to 2 before I get around to going it. I am on well water with very high pressure my sediment filters needs replaced often. every water source is different.

have you tried different water sources in the house?? could be a rusty pipe? how old in the home metal, copper or pex pipe?
I have heard it's possible for corroded pipes to eat up DI resin.

good luck!

Home is brand new, literally just built. Only been in it a short time. All PEX
No other water source to try

Perhaps I can test the TDS of the incoming water somehow.

 

[rcpalmer1]

And this is the issue
I am 150 gallons in and getting 2 tds

I have a dang near perfect town water report
We pay a ton of money for water in my town

I obviously should not be getting 150 gallons on this resin
Something is obviously wrong with the unit

What is your reading before the di? What I'd the reading after? That system has 2 TDs sensors. The display should read around 2-3 TDs before and 0 after. You have not stated what the before reading is. All BRS systems have color changing resin. Is the resin dark/blue or light/ yellow looking? Good city water will have at least 100 tds. They add minerals. It sounds to me like when you slide the switch to change from the in sensor to the out sensor it is not changing.

 

[lapin]

Hey all,
So my RODI unit brand new from BRS and only has 150 gallons through it is already reading 2 TDS.
I have my town water report and we dont even use chloramines. We have very good water here.

according to the IN side of the TDS, its 3

What is your reading before the di? What I'd the reading after? That system has 2 TDs sensors. The display should read around 2-3 TDs before and 0 after.

 

[Rscott]

Thanks lapin

 

[rcpalmer1]

.

 

[dbjonesjr]

So he’s got 45 psi compared to 50 recommended and 30 minimum. That won’t have any effect on the 3 TDS out the membrane (which is pretty good) and still 2 TDS on the output. I don’t see how anything else going on here says anything other than depleted resin.

If he’s convinced the unit is defective he should argue that with BRS.

I’d have to agree with this opinion after reading all the information. There is clearly a need for the resin to be replaced. If you are getting 3 TDS after the membrane and the resin isn’t taking it down to 0 TDS, then that is the issue.

 

[rcpalmer1]

I


Looks like it always does I guess?
It doesn’t come with color changing resin

This is wrong. All BRS systems come with color changing resin.

If I am correct you said you have 3 TDS in and 2TDS out. One canister of DI resin wont make 3000 gallons of water but it will make a lot more 150 gallons. Check your resin and see if it is yellowish orange. I have made over 150 gallons of water this month and my resin has only changed about a 1/2" in the bottom.