Acro PAR

[Luke Schnabel]

Im just wondering what everyone here keeps their Acros at. I'm trying to aim for around 200 PAR but they seem to be staying brown or tan.
Using radion g2s and T5s

Cal: 450 Alk: 8 Mg:1 400 No3: 5. PO4 .02-.04

 

[mcarroll]

Nutrients, Light and Flow – all together.

200 PAR should be the right range, generally speaking. (With room to go up, slowly, if you wanted.)

How are the other two factors? Please be specific and detailed. Post some pics if possible!

 

[Luke Schnabel]

The tank is 72x18x18, standard 125g. I have two MP40s providing most of my flow in the tank. My returns are "Y" flare nozzels on each side. Return pump is Ecotech M1 at full strength (also returning to frag tank). Most of my Acros are about 8" or more from water. Lights are about 12" above water. Total photoperiod of 10hrs. 1.5hr ramp up/down at all blue LEDs. Then 7hrs of 18k spectrum.
I'm feeding the tank 2x a day with mysis, bloodworm and Rotifers I got from Jehmco. http://www.jehmco.com/html/frozen.html
I also spot feed reef roids to my SPS 3x a week.
I do 25-30g water changes weekly.

All other coral is doing amazing. Just not my Acros.

Front orange are MP40. Back orange is the return lines

 

[revhtree Verified Admin]

This could be a good discussion. Following!

 

[mcarroll]

First off... You have a great LPS tank with the pump setup you have. It looks great!!!

I would either relax into the sweet LPS tank you already have going, or consider a more serious shift in gears if you really want acro's, etc. That means a change in flow that will make those big wavy guys in the photo unhappy and less wavy. I suspect it will be hard to keep high-energy acros happay at the same time as them.

If you want to make a move, I would start by replacing the mp40's with Turbelle® stream 6105's. ($560 for a pair) This will give you more flow over-all as well as stronger flow and – voila – the ability to direct your flow and maybe even experiment with other placements around the tank/behind the rocks.

If you wanted a smaller step, then consider beefing up the middle of the tank with a couple of smaller pumps. Could be as simple as a couple of Turbelle® nanostream® 6045's ($78) or as much as some Turbelle® nanostream® 6040's, Turbelle® nanostream® 6055's or Turbelle® nanostream® 6095's ($140-$230/ea).

A third mp40 would also do it if you're feeling like a hard core Vortech fan AND think you can pull off placement somewhere in the back-middle.

But you don't get quite as strong of flow and still not as much flexibility in placement as with most of the Tunze options listed. The 6105 option is my favorite.

 

[mcarroll]

Well, let me caveat that...

If you don't run your mp40's on something close to 100% all the time, change the settings to something that will do that.

(When at 100%, they can stir up the middle OK....not strong, but OK. If you're running one of the "more creative" modes on the controller, then your pump is running at low speed or off more than it's on.)

Try that. If the acros still don't like it (or the flow just doesn't work), then I still like the 6105 option.

 

[Luke Schnabel]

Sounds like a good idea for the flow. I don't think I would get rid of the MP40s though. I really like the idea of the Tunze that can be pointed at any direction. I've also seen a unit called a "Sea Sweep" that attaches a Tunze and can rotate 90 degrees. Any input on that?
I seriously just threw my MP40 program together. If anyone could point me in the right direction or share their Ecotech Program that would be great.
Also my PAR at my Acropora is about 175-210. The Radion G2s are about 4 years old that I got off a friend.

 

[McMullen]

I have a thriving Sps tank, but have no success keeping LPS. My tank is like a hurricane. No PAR meter, but I'm cranking the light to em. iPhone lux meter reads over 100,000

 

[mcarroll]

Can you just turn them up to 100% and leave them there to try it out?

 

[ksc]

More light. Most experienced sps keepers strive for 300+ par. I shoot for 200+ on the sandbed.

 

[Luke Schnabel]

I bumped them up to a Solid 80% for now. If all goes well on a week I'll go up further.

Tomorrow I'll raise my PAR by about 10-20. I'll try to shoot for about 20 additional PAR each week maybe??

 

[Luke Schnabel]

Also do you guys feed your SPS a lot? And Hwats your Bio load look like?
In the display I have 1-Foxface 1-Yellow Tang 1-Blue Hippo Tang 1-Tomoni Tang 1- Malarus Wrasse 1- Cleaner Wrasse 2- perc clowns 1-dottyback
I'm planning on adding a few more smaller fish including a goby by the end of summer. My QT process takes 5 weeks per fish.

 

[mcarroll]

With your nutrient numbers you shouldn't have to feed them – wouldn't want to, anyway. They'll take up NO3 and PO4 if they aren't fed. Once fed, they will not take up dissolved nutrients again until they starve for a few days/weeks.

If you boost your lights, remember to do it slowly. I wouldn't make a change of more than 50-60 PAR (~2000 lux) any more frequently than every few weeks. An even longer period between changes would be better.

 

[morpheas]

Please correct me if I'm wrong (maybe @Diesel can jump in and shed some light quite literally, or @d2mini who has had g2) but browning/green means they are increasing they're zooxanthellae which in turn means there's not enough light... That's how i would interpret that...

 

[inetjnky]

I had an acro go brown with too much light. After I dialed it back it colored up.

 

[Flippers4pups]

Your PO4 may be too high. What test kit are you using?

Agreed, it's tough to have your cake and eat it too when trying to keep SPS and LPS together. One will be happy and the other will decline.

As stated, LPS can't stand high flow systems and SPS need high flow.

Looks like you have plenty of incoming nutrients and NO3 is good. Try increased flow, upping your alkalinity slowly over a period of days to 10-11dkh, reduce your PO4 to 0 using your test kit (as much as your feeding, believe me you'll have some PO4) and up your light intensity slowly no more than 10% every couple weeks. It takes time for color to return.

Do they have good polyp extension now being browned?

 

[Diesel]

If acro's turn green for most part it means not enough daylight.
You can shed 500 par blue on it but it will still turn green on you.
Brown in most cases means a high or better too high nutrient level in the water, check your Po4 and bring that down if needed.
No3 won't hurt a acro much, as I have seen tanks with Po4 in the 0.05 and No3 over 80 colors were still there.

 

[Luke Schnabel]

Im using a Hannah Checker for my PO4 levels, two times a week. Salifert for No3 every day and Red Sea for everything else (Alk every day) I'm also using GFO to remove PO4.
Do you guys suggest stop feeding reef roids till the colors come back? My fish food already has a mix of rotifers.
I Increased my flow of the MP40s and put a small 1,900gph head in the back left corner of the tank under the return pointing across the back of the tank to help till I can get some Tunze.
I like LPS, they are actually my fiances favorite type of coral. Put personally I really love a beautiful Acro Tank. Im hoping that since all my Acros will be on the top of my reef, I can maintain a high flow and high light on the top of the reef.

Thanks for all your help and input guys!

 

[luke33]

Tank looks good. For sps I generally try to stay in the 150-800 par range. I generally go with the below.

Digi - 150-400
Monti- 200 - whatever they tolerate
Deep water 300-400
Mille 200- whatever they tolerate
All else generally 300-600 on average

As far as flow, I generate quite a bit and keep a corner for lps. You just have to find your lower flow spots. It's difficult but you can generally have a nice mixed reef. My lps hang out in the 150 par range.

 

[Luke Schnabel]

So as of today none on my LPS have really seemed to mind the increase in flow. They are all out in full. It does appear to be making WAY more flow in the tank by turning them up and adding the additional power head.
I increased my lighting to gain about 20 PAR on my acros. Hope everyone has a great holiday!