THanks for the suggestion; so what it seems like is there are 3 actual blue leds that are located within the t 5 fixture. They're ran off then t5 itself. I could possibly remove them? I assume they have to be removable incase they end up dying? But like I said I've never really even noticed them and for the longest time the blue was just another light bulb lol as opposed to the little leds. I think the other person suggestion was to also supplement with some sort of led strip? Maybe attach it directly to the t5? Not really sure.I think you said you just found out you have led's too. I figured they're in the middle of your t5's. If one of these fits in the middle of your t5's put it in there, you'll love it. If it won't, then scrap the thought and just run your t5's.
You would be running the t5's with the led's. Don't dump any of your t5's!
Thought we could make you a T5/Led hybird at a great price. Best of both world's!
If I mis-understood sorry for the confusion
Advice on T5 lighting
- Thread starter dragon99
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Scott.h
Valuable Member
It's a 36" tank. First, the LEDs in that fixture are for you, not the corals at all. Second, t5s are great. It's just a small fixture as far as 4 bulbs, especially for a deeper tank. You're probably about 35 par at the bottom max. Just program the clock and use the default settings. You don't need a programmer as the light has all that built in.
Salt is fine. Bleaching could be from any number of things. Too much light isn't going to be one of them unless you have some really low light coral. Low nutrients, alk swings, lots of things. What's your alk, phosphate, and nitrate? How old are your bulbs?
What corals are you wanting long term? How much do you want to spend? Are you going to keep those corals at the top, middle, or bottom of the tank? As far as full spectrum I'd probably go with 2 Coral plus and two blue plus. An aqua blue special would be ok too but visually it looks whiter out of all of them. Only having 4 options stay away from purple plus an attinic.
Salt is fine. Bleaching could be from any number of things. Too much light isn't going to be one of them unless you have some really low light coral. Low nutrients, alk swings, lots of things. What's your alk, phosphate, and nitrate? How old are your bulbs?
What corals are you wanting long term? How much do you want to spend? Are you going to keep those corals at the top, middle, or bottom of the tank? As far as full spectrum I'd probably go with 2 Coral plus and two blue plus. An aqua blue special would be ok too but visually it looks whiter out of all of them. Only having 4 options stay away from purple plus an attinic.
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Scott.h
Valuable Member
It's hard to see but visually you can tell what they look like. In person it's not as blue as it appears in the pic. Bulbs Close to near:Blue plus
Coral plus
Attinic
Aqua blue special
Blue plus
Purple plus
Coral plus
Blue plus
Scott.h
Valuable Member
My corals aren't really low, more like a little distance from the lights considering they are on a frag rack. Currently I am not really sure what type of corals I would like to have long term other than I am not too fond of branch like corals and probabaly no anemones considering I had a bad experience with a carpet anemone.. not really sure other than that.. I would be interested in probabaly upgrading to either adding a led light or possibly even upgrading fixtures itself if really need be. Do you ever run no light on in your tank? It's quite annoying to have a bright blue room whilst asleep but I've kinda got used to it so it's not too bad. Like I said it upset the fish it seemed so I left it on.
I didn't really think of a price point for corals or lighting; I kinda was thinking of adding an external overflow and sump setup soon so I would probabaly would either choose that or have a new light fixture be my next purchase; The lights are easily over a year old; set the tank up around November last year (well two years ago now) .. I haven't ordered the new ones but probably will this week. I figured the coral was bleaching due to not getting the right light or something.. my nutrients shouldn't be too much of an issue considering I used a decent element filled salt; (red coral pro salt) however I do feel like changing cause I think it is contributing to my high phosphates. Like I said I had a few of those corals I posted earlier that basically managed to stay alive throughout a year but didnt really grownor anything.. others died along the way but I think the was mainly due to algae and whatnot.
Scott.h
Valuable Member
By nutrients I didn't mean the kind they get from the salt. I meant nitrates and phosphate. The corals use a little of that for food. If those two things are zero it might bleach the corals. Probably not the case, depending on filtration and fish load. On the flip side if those things are high you might lose corals, or get lots of algae growth. I keep my phosphate .03 or less and nitrates around 10. Pick up a salifert test kit for each if you don't already test for it. That way you can rule things out.
Next, for now don't buy more light. It sounds like you aren't interested in keeping SPS (branching corals) and although not ideal, the light will do what you are needing it to do currently. You are overdue for bulbs though. Buy 2 coral plus and 2 blue plus and see how you like it. That should color the corals up nicely if everything else is in order. With The factory setting the lights should come on at 9 am and go off around 8 pm. Just leave the LED night lights off if it's in your room. Set the other two to auto. Like I said, the LEDs in that fixture are there for you, and to simulate moon lights not the corals. Put your money into filtration and a sump for sure.
How may fish are in the tank? What is your water source? What's the nitrate reading? What's the salinity? How offen and how much do you do for water changes?
Scott.h
Valuable Member
Here is how to program that light also. Like I said, if you unplug the light, plug back in, set the clock, put channels 1 and 2 to "auto" and channel 3 to off that's your best bet. But just so you know how to set it:
I just tested my salinity which came to 1.026, still a little unsure of my nitrate and phosphate readings considering I feel like I am really bad at these really precise color test kits. I recently switched over to an RO/DI as opposed as using bottled distilled water from the grocery store.
For fish as of right now I have next to nothing... A midas Blenny, 2 clownfish, a blue chromis, a yellow watchman and shrimp combo and thats about it.. I do have a few snails/hermits as well. I am running an Aquamaxx Hob skimmer in the back, got a decent amount of flow, mp40qd and a koralia 850 on the other side. I originally had a canister filter running for around 9 months or so and not until about a month ago I took it out of action.. I wasn't really aware that it was doing more harm than good, considering I never really took care of it..
I have been trying to flush my system so to speak from all the bad nutrients or whatnot by doing weekly water changes of about 15-20 gallons. Up until this week, where I only did a 7.5 gallon change cause I am low on salt and am looking to purchase another brand, or just something that is not too high in nutrients. I feel that my salt is not really being used in the long run because the corals don't seem to be doing much with it. What do you use for salt, if you haven't already mentioned? I was looking at Instant Ocean due to the consistency amongst reefers. Would I face any problems changing salts? Is it something that has to be done slowly? I hear mixed reviews about all salts and I am really unsure what to use. Some stick with Instant ocean, others swear by reef crystals and then i was even looking at the synthetic aquaforest ( I think thats the name of the brand). I have been trying to stay on top of removing any algae I see, as well.
So I know you keep reiterating the fact that the LED are for me.. But so I know this is silly, but will nothing detrimental happen to my tank in the dark? Like clearly the ocean isn't lit up at all the time, but I just get that little faded look of my midas blenny when he was scared in the dark lol.
--Thanks for dealing with my inexperienced self by the way
Scott.h
Valuable Member
dont get caught up on the salt brands. Any of them are capable of keeping any Coral as long as the rest of the things are in line. If Instant ocean is in your price range it's a fine salt. I pick my salt because I keep my alkalinity on the lower side for some of the corals I keep. But consistently is the important thing. Another thing that might happen is if you go a long period of time without doing a water change your alk might get depleted. If you then do a large water change with new salt that has higher alk, it might bleach the corals. So your fish load is low.. Good. But your filtration needs improved. So you have two options. Beef up filtration or do big, consistent water changes, the same amount the same day every week.I just tested my salinity which came to 1.026, still a little unsure of my nitrate and phosphate readings considering I feel like I am really bad at these really precise color test kits. I recently switched over to an RO/DI as opposed as using bottled distilled water from the grocery store.
For fish as of right now I have next to nothing... A midas Blenny, 2 clownfish, a blue chromis, a yellow watchman and shrimp combo and thats about it.. I do have a few snails/hermits as well. I am running an Aquamaxx Hob skimmer in the back, got a decent amount of flow, mp40qd and a koralia 850 on the other side. I originally had a canister filter running for around 9 months or so and not until about a month ago I took it out of action.. I wasn't really aware that it was doing more harm than good, considering I never really took care of it..
I have been trying to flush my system so to speak from all the bad nutrients or whatnot by doing weekly water changes of about 15-20 gallons. Up until this week, where I only did a 7.5 gallon change cause I am low on salt and am looking to purchase another brand, or just something that is not too high in nutrients. I feel that my salt is not really being used in the long run because the corals don't seem to be doing much with it. What do you use for salt, if you haven't already mentioned? I was looking at Instant Ocean due to the consistency amongst reefers. Would I face any problems changing salts? Is it something that has to be done slowly? I hear mixed reviews about all salts and I am really unsure what to use. Some stick with Instant ocean, others swear by reef crystals and then i was even looking at the synthetic aquaforest ( I think thats the name of the brand). I have been trying to stay on top of removing any algae I see, as well.
So I know you keep reiterating the fact that the LED are for me.. But so I know this is silly, but will nothing detrimental happen to my tank in the dark? Like clearly the ocean isn't lit up at all the time, but I just get that little faded look of my midas blenny when he was scared in the dark lol.
--Thanks for dealing with my inexperienced self by the way
Your phosphate is through the roof. You need to get that down. Weekly make sure you are blowing off rocks and stiring up detritus from anywhere you can get it. You don't want that stuff accumulating. Get it into your filter, or out of the tank by siphoning. You can get a cheap (or expensive) 50 dollar reactor with pump, put some phosphate media in there and soak all that out within a few days along with water changes. But do it sloooow. As your corals are use to high levels and it will bleach further or kill them.
Personally I'm not an advocate of LEDs. I have 4 systems running. Two are LEDs, two are t5. Good LEDs are expensive and I don't like using the cheap LEDs. Generally youll have better success (and spread) using t5 over cheap LEDs. But you have t5s so use it. Just change the bulbs at least every year. Mine were changed feb 1st and I just tested them yesterday and they are still ok. But I have a par meter and know the output when they were new. Date a sticker and tape it to the side when you change them so you know. Corals can go 3 days ok with no light but generally this is done because of an algae outbreak.
As far as sumps, you don't need a fancy high dollar acrylic sump unless you want one. But go as big as you can fit. Honestly my 2 home made sumps were well thought out, 1/3 the price, and better then one acrylic one.
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For filtration, I was thinking about adding another koralia powerhead on another side of my tank, to help stir my rocks up. Is too much flow a thing? Like my mp40 is rated pretty high but i run it on medium speed normally, along with the detritus cleaning modes on full speed often. Whenever I do water changes I tend to take one of the pumps off the side and basically blast every crevice I can see on my rock work. I think that since it is pretty clumped together some detritus builds up. (stuff clearly flies everywhere but that could be detritus or just sand blown around from my pistol shrimp). I was told that I could hook my canister filter up again, fill it with some carbon and or gfo and just treat that as media reactor.. but I am unsure if this is the way I want to go. At least of the time being even..
I guess my biggest problem with the sump is that as of now, I am really unconvinced I can fit a protein skimmer under my stand along with the sump. I can probably get away a 20gallon tank under the stand but i don't think I could be able to remove a collection cup or whatnot.. Unless there are smaller options? Do you have any pictures of your sump? If I was to do it myself, which i am getting closer and closer to the conclusion of as I learn more about them. (plus Petco's $1 gallon sale). Glass baffles seem to be my question and what sections I really need. A refugium would be cool. I just need to learn a little more about external overflows and return pumps. I did like this sort of setup.
Scott.h
Valuable Member
There is more then one way to do things, and usually a logical explanation for everything. I'm sure you could use that filter as a reactor. I wash my filter socks in the washer every week. That's probably the biggest thing with canisters. You don't want the junk to break down. Get it out. I have a wet dry under my 40 frag tank. 20 years ago it was state of the art. Most cringe at those now, but that tank runs zero nitrates and phosphate. And I no longer run a skimmer or gfo on it. Because I maintain it and understock the tank. So there is no right way, just easier ways. Here are my two homemade sumps/fugues. At work I have an acrylic and have it under the tank. After plumping my 2 home tanks into the basement I'm a little spoiled. I'm still working on the third one as it's not complete yet. I still need a second dosing pump, battery backup, and will add macroalgae/light this week.For filtration, I was thinking about adding another koralia powerhead on another side of my tank, to help stir my rocks up. Is too much flow a thing? Like my mp40 is rated pretty high but i run it on medium speed normally, along with the detritus cleaning modes on full speed often. Whenever I do water changes I tend to take one of the pumps off the side and basically blast every crevice I can see on my rock work. I think that since it is pretty clumped together some detritus builds up. (stuff clearly flies everywhere but that could be detritus or just sand blown around from my pistol shrimp). I was told that I could hook my canister filter up again, fill it with some carbon and or gfo and just treat that as media reactor.. but I am unsure if this is the way I want to go. At least of the time being even..
I guess my biggest problem with the sump is that as of now, I am really unconvinced I can fit a protein skimmer under my stand along with the sump. I can probably get away a 20gallon tank under the stand but i don't think I could be able to remove a collection cup or whatnot.. Unless there are smaller options? Do you have any pictures of your sump? If I was to do it myself, which i am getting closer and closer to the conclusion of as I learn more about them. (plus Petco's $1 gallon sale). Glass baffles seem to be my question and what sections I really need. A refugium would be cool. I just need to learn a little more about external overflows and return pumps. I did like this sort of setup.
Sorry to keep bothering you...There is more then one way to do things, and usually a logical explanation for everything. I'm sure you could use that filter as a reactor. I wash my filter socks in the washer every week. That's probably the biggest thing with canisters. You don't want the junk to break down. Get it out. I have a wet dry under my 40 frag tank. 20 years ago it was state of the art. Most cringe at those now, but that tank runs zero nitrates and phosphate. And I no longer run a skimmer or gfo on it. Because I maintain it and understock the tank. So there is no right way, just easier ways. Here are my two homemade sumps/fugues. At work I have an acrylic and have it under the tank. After plumping my 2 home tanks into the basement I'm a little spoiled. I'm still working on the third one as it's not complete yet. I still need a second dosing pump, battery backup, and will add macroalgae/light this week.
So if I was to want to lower my phosphates as of right now, other than water changes and a sump what could I do? Like is there a way to dose something to lower /remove them? I would try the canister filter for now, but I just can't seem to figure out what the right 'media bags' i would need to use in the canister itself. I wouldn't mind going and getting a 2 part media reactor, just don't have anything to put it into really. like doesn't it need to have a pump in the water? I think the best bet as of now would be to just try to build a sump. I think I can figure out the plumbing and baffles.. Any idea what I would need for some sort of return pump? My tank is probably 4 feet tall I'd say. My thinking is to do stuff in this order..
New bulbs
Return pump
External overflow
Sump
My next question is am I screwed if I can't fit much under my stand? Could I even possibly remove the board that is in between? http://www.petsmart.com/fish/suppli...aqueon-65-gallon-aquarium-ensemble-16714.html
if not.. my next thought was if I can just possibly move this tank onto another stand itself? Like I don't have another stand as of now, but I could probably find one somewhere with more room for under the tank. How impossible is it to move the tank over onto another stand itself..? Like I could even possibly switch it completely over into a 75 gallon tank and stand combo.. but that is even pushing it really. The back of the stand is open so I could plumb it and whatnot.
Scott.h
Valuable Member
i see what you're saying with that stand. Anything is possible. I'm not sure you're building skills but personally I'd build one out of 2x4s, cover it with maple plywood and trim it. But the easier way is buy a different stand. It's going to suck only having 36" to work with but that wet dry I have is a 20 gallon tank. And would fit fine.
Phosphate.. Do a few big water changes a few days apart. While you are sup homing water get as much detritus as you can. I have 3 of these. Includes pump.. $100 bucks. It would be overkill, but it works. That smaller one in that video above would work too.
http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/brs-gfo-carbon-dual-reactor.html
This stuff is super aggressive , but I'd do some water changes over the course of two weeks, run this for a few days if need, then switch to regular gfo.
http://www.marinedepot.com/Kent_Mar...ter_Media-Kent_Marine-KM9151-FIFMCHPR-vi.html
But this is a bandaid stemming from filtration issues. Assuming your rodi water is zero as it should be
Scott.h
Valuable Member
Im not sure your budget. If you like the hobby and plan on staying with it, I'm sure you are going to want a bigger tank. Or a second tank. It always happens. It's easy to say run out and buy this, or that, but in this hobby this and that adds up quick.
Look at his build. Look at his sump layout. Nice tidy use of a little space, and lots of nice corals. Anything is possible. It just takes time, patience, and most importantly money. Lol
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/dtums-practical-reef-54-gallons-of-coral-jewels.244302/
Look at his build. Look at his sump layout. Nice tidy use of a little space, and lots of nice corals. Anything is possible. It just takes time, patience, and most importantly money. Lol
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/dtums-practical-reef-54-gallons-of-coral-jewels.244302/
Ever since you mentioned 2x4's my mind has been running about how I could build this stand. Ultimately I don't really have much experience with building stuff, however I do have all the tools available at home if it need be. I think this would be my best bet, other than purchasing one (It might be fun to build, and will feel rewarding). Is there any sort of advice you could give me whilst doing this? Could I just purchase a few 2x4's and then get some sort of frame and go from there? What type of weight can a 2x4 withstand? I am looking all around online for guides and sizing and whatnot. I think I would like to build shelf similar to how my stand has now, would that compromise any of the strength? I guess one of my concerns is that I am unsure what I would do for the siding and whatnot. But I have a lot of time on my hands and I think this could be kind of fun... considering I can make it however I like(size, finish, shelving, cabinets, and height). What would you recommend for the side/trim? Am I going to have a nearly impossible time moving the tank once I build a new stand? I was thinking ideally that I would build it similar height, so I could just push it onto the other stand from the one its on now. I do want to create a new aquascape so this might be a good time for that as well considering it would involve me having a lot of area to deal with my tank. I am kicking myself in the behind right now cause a few weeks ago I had an opportunity to purchase a drilled 65 gallon tank and canopy for fairly cheap... which would have been great to just transfer everything over from.
Scott.h
Valuable Member
I moved a 110 from home to work a few months ago. Everything survived and I kept all the live rock piled in there with the fish for two weeks while I transferred. Then just dragged that wet dry from my 40 to the other, and ran that for the two weeks. Once that 90 was empty I stared finishing my basement off and building it in the wall. Moving tanks stinks, but nothing died and no issues. It's just a hassle. Rubbermaid trash cans are your friend. I have a few and that's what I use to hold water, both RO and salt. They work good for moving tanks. It Sucks you are far away I litterly have all sorts of stuff laying around you could use.
If you make the stand keep in mind water is 8.4 lbs a gallon and that tank can easily end up 600 lbs plus with rock etc. Look at that stand I build for my frag tank. I threw that together in like an hour for probably 20 bucks. Look at the bolts and lags in the legs. 1.5 inch lags. Run them from the inside instead of the outside. I didn't care because it's a frag tank in the basement. But You can buy maple plywood in the sheets. Cover it 3 sides and cap the ends with trim. Run baseboard around it at the bottom. Paint it. It's not hard just look at a stand in the store. There isn't much to them. Just make sure it's totally flat and level or the tank will leak over time. Depending on your budget you could buy one for probably 140 bucks done.
If you make the stand keep in mind water is 8.4 lbs a gallon and that tank can easily end up 600 lbs plus with rock etc. Look at that stand I build for my frag tank. I threw that together in like an hour for probably 20 bucks. Look at the bolts and lags in the legs. 1.5 inch lags. Run them from the inside instead of the outside. I didn't care because it's a frag tank in the basement. But You can buy maple plywood in the sheets. Cover it 3 sides and cap the ends with trim. Run baseboard around it at the bottom. Paint it. It's not hard just look at a stand in the store. There isn't much to them. Just make sure it's totally flat and level or the tank will leak over time. Depending on your budget you could buy one for probably 140 bucks done.
Its cool that you love the hobby enough to have multiple tanks. I probably wouldn't have too hard of a time convincing for an upgrade for my tank other than as of right now "why?" might be the biggest dilemma.. People don't just see that a larger tank means more fun
. Ideally if this all goes well and I can get a tank running and that looks better than a pile of rocks.. It could possibly get an upgrade. I was really amazed to see that a stand isn't really that difficult to make.. I watched this video . I just am really confused on what dimensions I would use cause my tank is a weird shape.. but thats about it. I think the sump plumbing might even be more difficult than this build, but it sure would be nice to have a lot of room underneath. I never really realized that hardware stores literally have everything to diy at home.. The video quoted the cost of a stand built, from screws, 2x4's and some plywood was like $30.. and like you said, it was built really fast. I guess I was overthinking about how difficult it would be.
I barely have anything in my tank, other than rocks so I don't even see how it would be too difficult to really move my tank if I decided to move my tank do all this. I have a 30 gallon and 20 gallon rubbermaid bucket and a handful of 5 gallons if need be. I guess I just don't like disrupting my tank because it literally takes a visible toll on my blenny lol and I feel bad for him. Not sure if I ever included a picture of my tank, but here it is. I wanna break some of those rocks down, or just add new dry rock to build my aquascape out. Do you have any advice on building a sump itself? Where can I get some pre cut baffles? I am thinking about doing something similar to the picture I posted before, but unsure how that layout really is and was more interested in the piping itself.
Scott.h
Valuable Member
Yeah the wife is really thrilled with this hobby. Lol sarcasm.
I misspoke earlier. I had an empty 90 tank that I had. That's my new one I set up in the wall. When I moved that 110 to work I put everything in the 90 for two weeks. So Don't move the tank with rocks in it. With what you have you could easily buy a cheap small tank or trash can to hold everything while you spend the day moving. If you bought a smaller tank to hold you could reuse that tank and current filter for a hospital tank or quarantine tank.
Your load is light and the live rock you have is playing an important roll in the filtration. If you want more rock, get some live rock when you move the tank and add too it. Just get your stand built first.
Glass companies can cut glass for you at whatever sizes you need. Depending on what you have available store wise. And silicone to hold everything. Then you can lay it out however. My smaller fuge is made from a 50 gallon for a 75 display tank, and my bigger one, 70 gallon for a 90 display tank. I misspoke on the lags too. I meant 3 inch lags. I used 2.5" screws to get it how I wanted then pre drilled the lag holes.
Piping is cheap and easy. 1" pvc on the overflow 3/4" or 1" on the return.. Flexible hose would be fine on the return. 500 gallon per hour pump or so. I try to aim for 10 times turnover per hour then down tune a touch.
I misspoke earlier. I had an empty 90 tank that I had. That's my new one I set up in the wall. When I moved that 110 to work I put everything in the 90 for two weeks. So Don't move the tank with rocks in it. With what you have you could easily buy a cheap small tank or trash can to hold everything while you spend the day moving. If you bought a smaller tank to hold you could reuse that tank and current filter for a hospital tank or quarantine tank.
Your load is light and the live rock you have is playing an important roll in the filtration. If you want more rock, get some live rock when you move the tank and add too it. Just get your stand built first.
Glass companies can cut glass for you at whatever sizes you need. Depending on what you have available store wise. And silicone to hold everything. Then you can lay it out however. My smaller fuge is made from a 50 gallon for a 75 display tank, and my bigger one, 70 gallon for a 90 display tank. I misspoke on the lags too. I meant 3 inch lags. I used 2.5" screws to get it how I wanted then pre drilled the lag holes.
Piping is cheap and easy. 1" pvc on the overflow 3/4" or 1" on the return.. Flexible hose would be fine on the return. 500 gallon per hour pump or so. I try to aim for 10 times turnover per hour then down tune a touch.
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Moving with rocks in it seems kinda dangerous, especially considering I am not really sure my rocks are really secure at all, hence why I want to get some more rocks to make a better scape.. When I first started out I didn't really think of the actual rock structures and was more like ' I would need a flat rock for something' so now I got a few flat rocks that I don't really have a good spot for. I was either looking to break this up somehow, or hopefully even be able to add them to my future sump
I am starting to think that all my problems are stemming from my sand bed.. Do you ever clean yours? I could definitely use a better clean up crew...Like I have learned a lot recently, I clearly was overfeeding by a LOT a few weeks/months ago. Like 3 cubes of food every other day or whatnot for my current stock list.. SO what happened was I originally had a decently stocked tank.. (really overstocked/bad choice of fish). I dosed polyplab's "One" What was supposed to keep all my elements in check.. (this is how clueless I was, I just followed the directions and woke up to nearly everything dead in my tank...) Not sure what happened really but I was thinking that a lot of oxygen was taken out of the tank somehow. It was honestly really tough to the point that I was like ' whatever it was fun trying salt'. It gets discouraging to get not really much out of the tank. Like its cool to be like ' oh you have a saltwater tank? whats it look like" and its just a pile of rocks lol.
I actually was on craigslist and came upon a cheap stand, unsure if its worth it though considering my tank isn't necessarily the same size. http://www.petsmart.com/fish/suppli...arium-majesty-ensemble-22101.html?cgid=300013 . Not that $50, is a lot.. (I'd definitely spend more making one) I just am not convinced that this will work well for me. Like its a little larger, so I could put a larger sump in.. but its not as convenient as the stand I am envisioning. Do you have any experiences with these stands? I guess I am worried that these stands are built cheaply so I'm not really sure. I could even possibly make a larger stand to the point that If I wanted, I could upgrade a new tank to it.
Sump. This could be cool, I am finally understanding how the baffles work and all that fun stuff. I guess my question is what do you run on your sumps? Does a filter sock do the same as a media reactor? I am thinking of having the water come onto a piece of plastic with two filter socks. One for carbon and one for gfo or something. Would this be a problem? I am unsure if I want to run a reactor straight off the plumbing or what to do.
