Algae Issues and Testing/Solution!

[AydenLincoln]

So I do weekly water changes of around 5 gallons in my 20 gallon AIO tank (no skimmer maybe it would help) I also decided to change my filter sock out more and will change my lighting schedule. I got my magnesium up too but my nitrates/phosphates are still high/less than ideal. So I’ve been looking into other options one of which is running a reactor with chaeto but before I jump into that this was recommend by my LFS. And I was reading reviews it seemed like a better option than Vibrant. Thoughts? I think this is a good forum to ask this question . I also picked up Nitrate and Phosphorus Hanna Checkers!

 

[vetteguy53081]

So I do weekly water changes of around 5 gallons in my 20 gallon tank I also decided to change my filter sock out more and will change my lighting schedule. I got my magnesium up too but my nitrates/phosphates are still high/less than ideal. So I’ve been looking into other options one of which is running a reactor with chaeto but before I jump into that this was recommend by my LFS. And I was reading reviews it seemed like a better option than Vibrant. Thoughts? I think this is a good forum to ask this question . I also picked up Nitrate and Phosphorus Hanna Checkers!

Try to conquer nitrate via water changes. This stuff works but can quickly strip tank of nutrients. Overall numbers are decent

 

[brandon429]

The truth is this line of control has turned thousands of gha tanks into dinos tanks so sorry but the % is high enough I wouldn't try starvation/ param raising or boosting as the control mode.

I would drop your light intensity and sustain for two months in assessment, we are all way bright on lights they can be tuned down for benefit in many tanks

Rip clean your tank back to zero algae, that method doesn't cause tradeoff invasions. Make changes to your tank in the clean condition as preventative moves, don't make changes in the invaded condition and hope the changes both starve algae and remove it from the system -- recipe for dinos and bleached corals and then on the rebound adjust from dinos, gha comes back.

If your tank is large and can't be directly cleaned/ ouch/ you'll have to take chances on indirect options

 

[Miami Reef]

I don’t think you’re allowed to carbon dose without a skimmer. Oxygen depletion from the growth of bacteria is common.

Water changes are cheap and effective to remove nitrates. Carbon dosing has very little impact on phosphates compared to nitrates, so carbon dosing wouldn’t be the most ideal method if phosphate reduction is the goal.

I think the first step is actually knowing what levels your nutrients are, and getting more herbivores (like snails).

 

[The_Skrimp]

This is very different from vibrant. NoPoX carbon doses your tank and feeds bacteria that will eventually outcompete the algae. You can do it for cheaper by simply dosing vodka or vinegar or even make your own DIY nopox by combining the two. There are recipes here that you can find if you do a search for it.

that said, carbon dosing is great at lowering nitrates but slow at lowering phosphates so I would still use something like GFO or phosguard. If you eventually grow enough bacteria to keep your nitrates super low, you can dose nitrates back into the tank to help speed up how fast carbon dosing reduces phosphates.

Edit: oh yeah, you absolutely need a skimmer for carbon dosing otherwise you won’t have a way to export the nutrients that are consumed by the bacteria.

 

[IslandLifeReef]

First, Vibrant and NoPoX are totally different products. Vibrant is an Algeacide and NoPoX is carbon dosing. How are your nutrients so high if you are doing weekly 25% water changes?

That being said, if you hav a skimmer, NoPoX will eventually bring down those nutrients. Just be careful not to strip them all.

 

[AydenLincoln]

First, Vibrant and NoPoX are totally different products. Vibrant is an Algeacide and NoPoX is carbon dosing. How are your nutrients so high if you are doing weekly 25% water changes?

That being said, if you hav a skimmer, NoPoX will eventually bring down those nutrients. Just be careful not to strip them all.

I don’t know. I don’t have a skimmer. I have a 20 gallon AIO tank.

 

[livinlifeinBKK]

If you run an airstone you can get away with carbon dosing but I'd use Aquaforest Pro Bio F which is geared towards smaller tanks. The airstone will make sure the water stays properly oxygenated. I've done it before in my nano.

 

[BanjoBandito]

Don't carbon dose without a skimmer, you have no bacterial export.

 

[BanjoBandito]

Without a skimmer you won't have many options to export - whether it's flocculant solutions or bacterial/carbon dosing solutions. I would get a small amount of GFO in a fine mesh media bag and put it in your AIO. Nitrates can be trimmed with water changes. In a tank that size doing a 50% water change weekly would "fine" and cut nitrates almost in half. Again, with the setup and size your best method of removal will be a media of some kind. All "newish" tanks run high on nutrients, it just takes time for them to come around, especially on phosphate. If you are having algae issues you'll have to get ahead of it and then get a bunch of snails or some other CUC to keep ahead of it.

 

[A_Blind_Reefer]

Try to conquer nitrate via water changes. This stuff works but can quickly strip tank of nutrients. Overall numbers are decent

+1 for this. Product solutions have thier place but the hobby seems to push them for every little thing. Also maybe look at how much you’re feeding. The nutrients are coming from somewhere

 

[Lbrdsoxfan]

I get those numbers out of a heavily stocked 120g. If your doing 25% water changes, weekly, something else is amiss (high bioload from overfeeding or too many fish is my guess).

I'd step up the water changes, to get the numbers down but that's just me. Nopox can be a rabbit hole and its a slow fix imho.

 

[A_Blind_Reefer]

Also, did you get the phosphate or phosphorus checker? I could be wrong, well I am wrong all the time, but I thought the phosphorus checker was for lower levels like a ulns system. I guess you can probably dilute it but that’s an extra step. Again, I could be and probably am wrong

 

[Lavey29]

I get those numbers out of a heavily stocked 120g. If your doing 25% water changes, weekly, something else is amiss (high bioload from overfeeding or too many fish is my guess).

I'd step up the water changes, to get the numbers down but that's just me. Nopox can be a rabbit hole and its a slow fix imho.

Yes probably bioload and insufficient filtration to handle it with a nano set up.

OP stop feeding flakes or pellets. Just moderate amount of frozen and maintain weekly water changes and numbers will balance. You tank is still fairly new. Not uncommon to see high nutrients until you get some more corals in there feeding on the nitrates.

 

[A_Blind_Reefer]

Last thing I kinda promise. Last week you thought the numbers were high as you stirred up the sand. Are you siphoning the sand clean? Or just stirring it up and hoping the filtration catches things? I’m asking as this could contribute to your numbers

 

[AydenLincoln]

Also, did you get the phosphate or phosphorus checker? I could be wrong, well I am wrong all the time, but I thought the phosphorus checker was for lower levels like a ulns system. I guess you can probably dilute it but that’s an extra step. Again, I could be and probably am wrong

I meant to say phosphate.

 

[AydenLincoln]

Last thing I kinda promise. Last week you thought the numbers were high as you stirred up the sand. Are you siphoning the sand clean? Or just stirring it up and hoping the filtration catches things? I’m asking as this could contribute to your numbers

No I don’t and that was almost over a week ago.

 

[AydenLincoln]

I also feed every other day now. I’m trying to feed frozen more than pellet too. I will be reducing my lighting schedule to not have them run 12 hours a day too. And I know it’s more glass algae but it’s still not pretty with a mix of green hair algae on the rocks. And some other algae too and yes I do scrape it off but it just comes back and I don’t like snails so they are out of the question.

 

[Lavey29]

I do weekly water changes of around 25% and upped my filter sock changing schedule. And I feed every other day now. I’m trying to feed frozen more than pellet too. I will be reducing my lighting schedule to not have them run 12 hours a day too. And I know it’s more glass algae but it’s still not pretty with a mix of green hair algae on the rocks. And some other algae too and yes I do scrape it off but it just comes back and I don’t like snails so they are out of the question.

12 hours is way to much light. Cut to 6 hours blue and uv only no whites.

 

[AydenLincoln]

12 hours is way to much light. Cut to 6 hours blue and uv only no whites.

I use a preset so I need to edit it.