The ocean and our systems aren't comparable in so many ways it makes it a moot point to ever say "but in the ocean!!!"
No but in this they are
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The ocean and our systems aren't comparable in so many ways it makes it a moot point to ever say "but in the ocean!!!"
If it’s working for you then great don’t chance it.Tell me how something is more superior than this
There is no plumbing, no spray bar to clog, zero chance of overflowing or flooding. It’s a true “in sump” design that floats in your sump. I’ve been using it for years and it works great. I harvest algae by the cup full with this
The beauty of carbon dosing.. feed like a madman, literally snow storm the tank with food, and no repercussions.. my refugium is basically just a buffer to protect from bottoming outDon’t use one and don’t need one lol! Never had a problem with algae in any of my tanks.. I run nothing but a skimmer on my tanks and keep up with carbon dosing and water changes…. It works for me and many others to keep everything in check.. I can place dry rock in my tank and it’s purple within 4-6 weeks and no “ugly phase”
I have about 1000w of lights above my tank, idk if a ats will outcompete thatBRS did an experiment where Fuge lighting competed with display lighting and if I recall correctly that was a solution to keeping or reducing DT algae. Can't find the video but I'm sure others have seen it. Logically seemed valid since that exposed to higher PAR should out-compete. Simple enough for anyone to try especially since an ATS has the blurple lighting maximizing power where beneficial and very close to the algae. Run it 24/7. Add another. Go oversize. Lots of options. Even if it's not scientifically conclusive as to why display algae vanished there is the greatly appreciated benefit that it did. You'd think the manufacturers of these often expensive drip trays would have already.
Have an IM 18w light arriving this week and will test that but with a small Fuge to see how it performs. Only way to know if it's effective even if it's not done in such a way as to bring conclusive scientific proof. In the end. I just want it to work. Anecdotal validation more than good enough.
Turn the white lights on, let's see what you're really working with...Update with pics of screen and DT. Taken just now![]()
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But that's spread over a large area. Not pounding 1K watt over a six inch square and not centimeters from that square.I have about 1000w of lights above my tank, idk if a ats will outcompete that
Correct... so hypothetically, how much or how big of a ats would it take for a 180g system with about 1000w of lighting to be out competed? Is it feasible? (In your, or anybody else's opinion)But that's spread over a large area. Not pounding 1K watt over a six inch square and not centimeters from that square.
I had a feeling someone was going to say that. I took these at the same time as the others, but my bright white tank is really ugly. Lol.Turn the white lights on, let's see what you're really working with...
Ok so, in my opinion, you haven't beat algea in display with ats.. you may have made significant ground gaining control of it, but its there in a significant way. The ats is a tool in the bag, not a solution. Right? I haven't cleaned my glass in like 2 months or I would show clean seasoned rock under white light. Many of the people contesting your premise can show even cleaner/better. They are trying to guide you to the next level, not attack you. Ask for pics and be amazedI had a feeling someone was going to say that. I took these at the same time as the others, but my bright white tank is really ugly. Lol.![]()
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i don’t know about other brands but Santa Monica is arguable one of the key players in the game and their scrubbers are spec’d by daily feeding amount + current phosphate levels. He insists tank volume doesn’t matterCorrect... so hypothetically, how much or how big of a ats would it take for a 180g system with about 1000w of lighting to be out competed? Is it feasible? (In your, or anybody else's opinion)
Good to know, never heard of them... I have no plans to add one but I'll look into it, good to know/be familiar of quality options for the futurei don’t know about other brands but Santa Monica is arguable one of the key players in the game and their scrubbers are spec’d by daily feeding amount + current phosphate levels. He insists tank volume doesn’t matter
Also his gem5 led system which is standard on several models puts out 1000 red spectrum par about 2” from the algae growth area so I definitely would say it can outcompete display lighting
Did some test for the first time.
Salinity 36 PSU/35 PPT
Ca 450
Alk 13
Mg 1350
Nitrate 10
PO4 0.03
For Ca and Alk I use kalk in my ATO and looks like I could reduce it from being fully saturated. The ATO runs 24/7 spread out pretty well too. I don't allow it to run more then 5 seconds at a time with at least 10 minute between runs.
Mg I add about 1/4 cup to my water change water of Instant Ocean that changes out about 30% monthly at about 1% daily. IO has an Alk around 10-11 so I could add some muriatic acid to reduce this a bit too. I've done this before until my stonies started taking off.
I feed super heavy. I have an Apex AFS that runs at 11am, 3:30pm, and 9pm with two turns each time. Filled with NLS little pellets.
I put in at least one 8x8 sheet of nori every day. Sometimes twice or three times.
I feed at least one cube of something meaty everyday. Sometimes 2 or 3.
My fish then feed the corals and disgustingly themselves as well with their own poop. They go nuts chasing each other when they see something starting to come out or they smell it. I'm pretty sure that's all my yellow tail damsel eats.
Between water changes and food my trace elements should be taken care of.
I do dose Iron. So, I'm sure that's elevated above natural sea water levels.
I dose vinegar as well which the acetic acid can be consumed by many things.
Nutrient export is obviously the ATSs that are both doing great and the water changes. No more skimmer right now. No socks. No mats. I don't vacuum out and clean the sump.
I like a little fuzz between the rocks, my tangs appreciate it.. most times I leave 1 patch growing from a powerhead for them. Like watching them swim against the current for it, like watching a fat person on a treadmill with fried chicken dangling in front..I'm not sure I'd like to have 0 algae in my display. I'm an odd ball though. I'm not just about colorful sticks which look amazing to see but for me I love watching my fish grazing all day.
From a couple weeks ago.
Some others to look atGood to know, never heard of them... I have no plans to add one but I'll look into it, good to know/be familiar of quality options for the future
I have been using a model of his for 10 years.Good to know, never heard of them... I have no plans to add one but I'll look into it, good to know/be familiar of quality options for the future
I appreciate that. Under blues, it definitely looked better. That being said, when I was having GHA problems, I took the rocks out and power washed them, soaked them in water-change water, and returned them to the tank.The GHA was gone, but the rocks were still green.Ok so, in my opinion, you haven't beat algea in display with ats.. you may have made significant ground gaining control of it, but its there in a significant way. The ats is a tool in the bag, not a solution. Right? I haven't cleaned my glass in like 2 months or I would show clean seasoned rock under white light. Many of the people contesting your premise can show even cleaner/better. They are trying to guide you to the next level, not attack you. Ask for pics and be amazed
Don't know how big but the point is that built big enough and theoretically on what BRS did then it should out-compete. Unless people start experimenting then this question can't be reasonably answered yet it would stand to reason one could test it with smaller setups and extrapolate the rest. Haven't found the BRS video but those guys go into the weeds and perhaps the answer already exists. My not knowing what you seek doesn't invalidate what they did.Correct... so hypothetically, how much or how big of a ats would it take for a 180g system with about 1000w of lighting to be out competed? Is it feasible? (In your, or anybody else's opinion)
If it does not rinse off or scrape off easily and the rocks truly are green stained and that is not algae, then what you see is periphytonI appreciate that. Under blues, it definitely looked better. That being said, when I was having GHA problems, I took the rocks out and power washed them, soaked them in water-change water, and returned them to the tank.The GHA was gone, but the rocks were still green.
MOST of the green that you see does not rise off the surface of the rocks. I can not scrape it off with my fingernail. I say MOST because I didn't literally try to scrap off every area Can it be stained from the algae that was there before?
www.reef2reef.com
I appreciate you posting those pics, alot of people wouldn't have the balls, there's no shame. My tank was a neglected wreck for the first 3 years. Idk the mechanisms for the change but maintaining control until it happens is key. Do you have any coraline growing in the tank? At some point that is what covers the rock, repelling the green.. I also don't know if or how coraline growth is effected by deep blue light, but I know you want to encourage it. Again, I see no attacks from anyone here. Just genuine advice and insight. Carbon dosing was the game changer for me, everything else was a learning experience and tool to maintain control while figuring it out and letting tank matureI appreciate that. Under blues, it definitely looked better. That being said, when I was having GHA problems, I took the rocks out and power washed them, soaked them in water-change water, and returned them to the tank.The GHA was gone, but the rocks were still green.
MOST of the green that you see does not rise off the surface of the rocks. I can not scrape it off with my fingernail. I say MOST because I didn't literally try to scrap off every area Can it be stained from the algae that was there before?

