Ammonia in QT- need advice!!!

[Cassian]

Hello all. I have a slight problem and am not sure what I should do. I have a tang in a 65 gal qt (and sump). I have been treating with cuppramine for almost a week now. Levels holding steady at 0.5 ppm. Yesterday my seachem ammonia alert badges changed color to the alert zone. I did a 50% water change (predosed with copper so level would hold steady) last night. This morning the ammonia still shows the same. The tang, which was being treated for ich, does not have the iconic white grains of salt that come with ich, but it has slight white spots on it where the spots were.

So here is my question:
1. Should I place the tang in the DT? My DT is most likely not ich free as most of the fish have not gone through full copper, but then again I have never see it in my DT. This tang is my last fish and I would really hate to mess up the whole thing now.

2. How long does it take seachem badges to readjust their color?

3. Should I leave the tang in qt, remove all copper, and dose ammonia reducer, then observe for 2 weeks to see if ich returns?

4. Can I add ammonia reducer with cuppramine? It says on the bottle not too, but just thought I’d ask.


Thank you all in advance!

@HotRocks , any suggestions? This is the same tang I asked you about a few days ago.

#reefsquad

 

[NeonRabbit221B]

I would avoid making any changes from the results of an ammonia alert... Test with a real kit and maybe add a bacterial supplement. If the test kit shows its high then react. Wish I could be more helpful but testing results vary so much with those badges..

 

[Cassian]

I would avoid making any changes from the results of an ammonia alert... Test with a real kit and maybe add a bacterial supplement. If the test kit shows its high then react. Wish I could be more helpful but testing results vary so much with those badges..

Ok, I will test with my test kit. I’ve been told that copper affects the results of the kit though, is that not true?

 

[NeonRabbit221B]

True but if you test kit isn't registering any then you might just have a dud badge. I believe the kits would register higher levels (free and total) then the alert badge which does free ammonia.

 

[Cassian]

True but if you test kit isn't registering any then you might just have a dud badge. I believe the kits would register higher levels (free and total) then the alert badge which does free ammonia.

Ok, did the test kit and it is reading the same as the two badges I have. 0.05 ppm

 

[Victoria M]

What test kit did you use? The only test kid that can reliably read ammonia with copper dosed water is the seachem ammonia test that uses little yellow dots. I would dose with fritz6, Seachems Stability, or biospira. I mostly use Stability in my QT. When I am doubting my ammonia badge I use a clean shot glass or glass measuring cup, put water from my tank into the cup, then place the badge in the cup to see if it changes. I have had a dud badge too, so I started keeping extras on hand.

 

[Victoria M]

Also forgot that the badge can look like it is in the alert zone in dim lighting. If so Illiminate the badge from the back/side and see if it is still greenish.

 

[BayouReefer]

Can you dose Prime or Amquel

 

[Dexter_SA]

no you cant

 

[living_tribunal]

Hello all. I have a slight problem and am not sure what I should do. I have a tang in a 65 gal qt (and sump). I have been treating with cuppramine for almost a week now. Levels holding steady at 0.5 ppm. Yesterday my seachem ammonia alert badges changed color to the alert zone. I did a 50% water change (predosed with copper so level would hold steady) last night. This morning the ammonia still shows the same. The tang, which was being treated for ich, does not have the iconic white grains of salt that come with ich, but it has slight white spots on it where the spots were.

So here is my question:
1. Should I place the tang in the DT? My DT is most likely not ich free as most of the fish have not gone through full copper, but then again I have never see it in my DT. This tang is my last fish and I would really hate to mess up the whole thing now.

2. How long does it take seachem badges to readjust their color?

3. Should I leave the tang in qt, remove all copper, and dose ammonia reducer, then observe for 2 weeks to see if ich returns?

4. Can I add ammonia reducer with cuppramine? It says on the bottle not too, but just thought I’d ask.


Thank you all in advance!

@HotRocks , any suggestions? This is the same tang I asked you about a few days ago.

#reefsquad

Did you seed/cycle the tank and/or sponge if you are using a sponge filter?

I would if you haven't, it's not much bacteria but it will help.

Water changes in qt are just essential, it's the only surefire way to remove ammonia consistently and not have to worry about it. I try to do water changes every 3 days on my qt tank.

Also, DO NOT dose prime into the qt. I don't know the specific science but it binds to copper and creates a toxic substance for the fish.

I would just dump a lot of seeding agent in there and also throw in a small piece of live rock from your dt that you can throw away once the qt is done.

 

[Cassian]

What test kit did you use? The only test kid that can reliably read ammonia with copper dosed water is the seachem ammonia test that uses little yellow dots. I would dose with fritz6, Seachems Stability, or biospira. I mostly use Stability in my QT. When I am doubting my ammonia badge I use a clean shot glass or glass measuring cup, put water from my tank into the cup, then place the badge in the cup to see if it changes. I have had a dud badge too, so I started keeping extras on hand.

I used API. Which is all I have. I mostly rely on the seachem badges

 

[Cassian]

Also forgot that the badge can look like it is in the alert zone in dim lighting. If so Illiminate the badge from the back/side and see if it is still greenish.

It is in dim light. I will try that

 

[Cassian]

Did you seed/cycle the tank and/or sponge if you are using a sponge filter?

I would if you haven't, it's not much bacteria but it will help.

Water changes in qt are just essential, it's the only surefire way to remove ammonia consistently and not have to worry about it. I try to do water changes every 3 days on my qt tank.

Also, DO NOT dose prime into the qt. I don't know the specific science but it binds to copper and creates a toxic substance for the fish.

I would just dump a lot of seeding agent in there and also throw in a small piece of live rock from your dt that you can throw away once the qt is done.

Thanks for all the good info! I did seed and cycle the tank. This tank has been setup for about 1-2 months now.

 

[Cassian]

What is your guys opinion on removing copper completely and treating ich with hypo? That way I could dose prime to control ammonia

 

[living_tribunal]

Thanks for all the good info! I did seed and cycle the tank. This tank has been setup for about 1-2 months now.

I wouldn't be too worried then. Just try and do a 30% water change twice a week. You're doing it right by having the tang in a large qt tank but you'll just have to suck it up and flex your rodi unit

 

[living_tribunal]

What is your guys opinion on removing copper completely and treating ich with hypo? That way I could dose prime to control ammonia

I wouldn't remove the copper. You really need to keep the copper consistent since the tang has been in the qt tank. If a fallen tomont bursts after you remove the copper then the fish will become reinfected.

 

[Cassian]

I wouldn't remove the copper. You really need to keep the copper consistent since the tang has been in the qt tank. If a fallen tomont bursts after you remove the copper then the fish will become reinfected.

Ok, I will continue with copper and WC’s then. Thank you!

 

[DarkSky]

Can you dose Prime or Amquel

Just going to reiterate this again as it was covered above but a bit buried:

IF YOU ARE TREATING WITH COPPER, NEVER USE PRIME, AMQUEL, OR ANY OTHER AMMONIA NEUTRALIZING CHEMICALS. IT WILL KILL YOUR FISH.

 

[artieg1]

I would just keep changing water. As an aside, this is one reason why large QT tanks are difficult, all that water. 65 seems large to me. 40 won't do? Or don't fill up all the way? I change at least 25% of my QT water every 3 days.

 

[BeejReef]

What's your plan for after copper is completed? You say you think there's a fair chance your DT has ich?? Where is the tang going to go after QT?