Ammonia in QT- need advice!!!

  • Thread starter Thread starter Cassian
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Just going to reiterate this again as it was covered above but a bit buried:

IF YOU ARE TREATING WITH COPPER, NEVER USE PRIME, AMQUEL, OR ANY OTHER AMMONIA NEUTRALIZING CHEMICALS. IT WILL KILL YOUR FISH.

Thank you for clarifying! :D
 
I would just keep changing water. As an aside, this is one reason why large QT tanks are difficult, all that water. 65 seems large to me. 40 won't do? Or don't fill up all the way? I change at least 25% of my QT water every 3 days.

I don’t have a 40 and this tank has to be filled all the way to work :(
 
What's your plan for after copper is completed? You say you think there's a fair chance your DT has ich?? Where is the tang going to go after QT?

The DT.
 
Ok, so I took @Victoria M ’s advice and shinned a better light on it. The badge now reads 0. Thanks for the suggestion!!

Here is a video of the tang. Can anyone confirm this is ich? I’ve never seen it leave cloudy spot like this after the salt grain look is gone

He does have a couple of ich spots this morning
 
it is a beautiful fish but I can not see anything clearly in the tank. I would clean the glass. I am just starting to be a big fan of the hybrid TTM.
It is especially important when you see CRYPTO aka ICH. It is nice to know that you have gotten the fish away from the next round of "baby ICH."
check out this thread.
Do you have another tank you could set up real quick to move him.

the reason I use an inside the tank filter such as the FLUVAL U4. It gives the the advantage of a larger tanks surface area but I can reduce the water volume when needed.





I have recently changed my fish QT process to include a UV sterilizer in the first tank because these situations stress me out terribly and the UV buys more time.

What are you checking your copper level with? It matters. folks are reporting greater success withthe hana copper checker.
 
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What is your guys opinion on removing copper completely and treating ich with hypo? That way I could dose prime to control ammonia
No, not really the best method for cryptocaryon irritans.
I suggest you start reading every sticky at the top of this forum.
seriously interesting reading and very helpful stuff for dealing with quarantine and hospital tanks.

API test kit is rendered useless by copper in the water.
 
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and as long as I am not having a problem with ammonia, I do big not do water changes in my QT. I keep the water topped off to not concentrate the copper, and I vacuum out uneaten food, and replace that water with copper doses water. but that is it.

I think the spots you are seeing is a wound after the trophont has left the fish. His very dark coloring makes the spot more noticeable. The fishes wound can now become infected with a bacteria. so keep a close on this guy.
 
it is a beautiful fish but I can not see anything clearly in the tank. I would clean the glass. I am just starting to be a big fan of the hybrid TTM.
It is especially important when you see CRYPTO aka ICH. It is nice to know that you have gotten the fish away from the next round of "baby ICH."
check out this thread.
Do you have another tank you could set up real quick to move him.

the reason I use an inside the tank filter such as the FLUVAL U4. It gives the the advantage of a larger tanks surface area but I can reduce the water volume when needed.





I have recently changed my fish QT process to include a UV sterilizer in the first tank because these situations stress me out terribly and the UV buys more time.

What are you checking your copper level with? It matters. folks are reporting greater success withthe hana copper checker.


Thanks! Good info! Yeah, I’ve scrubbed and scrubbed the glass. For some reason, when I dose medication it gets this chalky film on it. The internet other tank I have available is a 20 gal. I check the copper with the seachem copper test
 
No, not really the best method for cryptocaryon irritans.
I suggest you start reading every sticky at the top of this forum.
seriously interesting reading and very helpful stuff for dealing with quarantine and hospital tanks.

API test kit is rendered useless by copper in the water.

Thanks! I’ve heard the same about the API test as well
 
and as long as I am not having a problem with ammonia, I do big not do water changes in my QT. I keep the water topped off to not concentrate the copper, and I vacuum out uneaten food, and replace that water with copper doses water. but that is it.

I think the spots you are seeing is a wound after the trophont has left the fish. His very dark coloring makes the spot more noticeable. The fishes wound can now become infected with a bacteria. so keep a close on this guy.


Thank you for all of the helpful info!! It is most appreciated! I agree with the wounds. I am treating him with antibacterial medication in his food
 
Just going to reiterate this again as it was covered above but a bit buried:

IF YOU ARE TREATING WITH COPPER, NEVER USE PRIME, AMQUEL, OR ANY OTHER AMMONIA NEUTRALIZING CHEMICALS. IT WILL KILL YOUR FISH.
This is not entirely true. If you use copper powder for instance you can use Prime or AMQUEL. It wont have any negative effect on fish. But if for something like Cupramine you can't use Prime and the likes. It will make the copper toxic. Humblefish recently put this to the test
 

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