Ammonia isn’t coming down

So there is something in your water. We need to figure that out. Weird that it has not effected your clown. The only number I dont see is the alk. Could it be super high or super low?
 
So there is something in your water. We need to figure that out. Weird that it has not effected your clown. The only number I dont see is the alk. Could it be super high or super low?
But that shouldn't kill fish in a day should it, unless really grossly out of whack.

I was thinking maybe some component is old breaking down and/or leaching some toxic metal. Or perhaps not using RODI and chlorine/chloramine causing issues.
 
But yeah, check Alk. :) Just reread that you're using RODI - good (and bad because it's not that). And a new tank, read that nothing used in there.

Just having a hard time getting my head around something that would kill this many fish that quick and not be readily apparent. And you still have the clown just happy go lucky swimming around in there, right?
 
Any damage to the dead fish? Any chance there's a predator hidden in the live rock?
Good check. I thought of that too, but would hope the post would be "found all 3 dead with their heads missing" or some such.

Does beg the question....any unusual livestock you haven't mentioned? Have a thing for Bobbit worms?
 
Good check. I thought of that too, but would hope the post would be "found all 3 dead with their heads missing" or some such.

Does beg the question....any unusual livestock you haven't mentioned? Have a thing for Bobbit worms?
No other creatures that I know of, they look fine and fully in tact. I’ll check alk when I get back home. Maybe the check valve? That’s what’s absolutely driving me crazy is that the clown is as happy as he can be.... dog hair? I have a dog that sheds but the hair just floats on the top and I net it out. I started the tank with tap water and conditioned it but by now I imagine it’s been pretty much replaced with all the rodi I’ve put in it
 
I don't want to jump on the "aha, you didn't start it with RODI" thing, but it's in my head nonetheless.

It's that clown - I'm not aware that they are super tolerant of bad water conditions that kill other fish. But I can see it being more resistant to an infection/disease than new fish. Capture/moving is stressful to fish no matter we try to minimize it. Stress reduces resistance to disease and infection. And if some bacteria strains or viruses are present..

I was going to suggest getting an ICP test, but that's not going to show any biological results and I think any chemical contaminant is going to kill the clown too.

It sill could be that the fish were just not healthy to start.

I'm hesitant to say to get another aquarium/container and start with RODI saltwater (like a quarantine tank - don't remember if you said you had one) because of the expense but hey it's an expensive hobby and QT/hospital tanks are really something you should have on hand anyway. Lot's of guides how to set one up cheap (ish).

See if the new fish survive in there for several days. Move it over to display. It's either going to be fine or not, but you're not going to know why if it survives. If it lives, it could just be that it got enough time to recover from stress, or this might not have been problem at all and the other fish weren't healthy to start. If it dies, well then you need to drain and start over with RODI saltwater.

So I really don't want you taking action on this without a few more folks weighing in on it. I could be way out to lunch or there could be some easier/quicker tests to do or maybe better logical order.
 
I don't want to jump on the "aha, you didn't start it with RODI" thing, but it's in my head nonetheless.

It's that clown - I'm not aware that they are super tolerant of bad water conditions that kill other fish. But I can see it being more resistant to an infection/disease than new fish. Capture/moving is stressful to fish no matter we try to minimize it. Stress reduces resistance to disease and infection. And if some bacteria strains or viruses are present..

I was going to suggest getting an ICP test, but that's not going to show any biological results and I think any chemical contaminant is going to kill the clown too.

It sill could be that the fish were just not healthy to start.

I'm hesitant to say to get another aquarium/container and start with RODI saltwater (like a quarantine tank - don't remember if you said you had one) because of the expense but hey it's an expensive hobby and QT/hospital tanks are really something you should have on hand anyway. Lot's of guides how to set one up cheap (ish).

See if the new fish survive in there for several days. Move it over to display. It's either going to be fine or not, but you're not going to know why if it survives. If it lives, it could just be that it got enough time to recover from stress, or this might not have been problem at all and the other fish weren't healthy to start. If it dies, well then you need to drain and start over with RODI saltwater.

So I really don't want you taking action on this without a few more folks weighing in on it. I could be way out to lunch or there could be some easier/quicker tests to do or maybe better logical order.
I’ve been kind of thinking it might come down to this I have a spare 10 gallon I was tempted to try different methods with the firefish but just thought I would try to get them in faster, so you recommend freshwater dips or anything like that, I know brs recommended freshwater dipping some fish. Well see what everyone else thinks but I’ll probably get some more firefish, should I try getting like 2 of them and qt 1 and then acclimate one to the main tank?
 
I would recommend slowing down and not buying anything right now, or at least not until we get some stuff figured out. I know it is hard to be patient, but I promise you that patience pays off in this hobby. I lost my whole tank due to a lack of patience and had to start over.

Could you post some pictures of your set up? I know you said you are using RODI water, do you happen to have a TDS meter? I read all of the posts but didn't see that mentioned.
 
I don't recommend prophylactic quarantine...others will disagree with valid reasons. I prefer to monitor and treat if necessary. To me it's all about getting the fish back to lower stress levels fast as possible. After it's eating and normalized I consider treatments but to date...the few weeks in QT hasn't shown anything to make me consider treatment.

I haven't had that good of luck in freshwater and have had to do treatments with them when ich or other infections have showed up.

I would only get one fish honestly and go with QT. No need to throw more money or fish at something until you get some survivability even in QT.
 
Oh, one more thing @Iconicjellyfish, normally when starting a QT or hospital tank I use some media from my DT to jump start it. In your case I recommend starting a 'clean' QT. Keep it completely isolated from your display. Don't use media, water, CUC or anything from your display. Unfortunately, that's going to mean cycling for another few weeks but it's really only way to be sure.

Like @ccombs said, you're going to have to be patient. Bummer that you start out this way, but hey, you get past this and you're going to know more than most beginners.

And while you're setting up the QT you may find the answer. :)

Good luck!
 
Oh, one more thing @Iconicjellyfish, normally when starting a QT or hospital tank I use some media from my DT to jump start it. In your case I recommend starting a 'clean' QT. Keep it completely isolated from your display. Don't use media, water, CUC or anything from your display. Unfortunately, that's going to mean cycling for another few weeks but it's really only way to be sure.

Like @ccombs said, you're going to have to be patient. Bummer that you start out this way, but hey, you get past this and you're going to know more than most beginners.

And while you're setting up the QT you may find the answer. :)

Good luck!
Would definitely do it different if I restarted or another friend asked me to help, doesn’t quarantine stress fish out more since there’s less places to hide?
 
I would recommend slowing down and not buying anything right now, or at least not until we get some stuff figured out. I know it is hard to be patient, but I promise you that patience pays off in this hobby. I lost my whole tank due to a lack of patience and had to start over.

Could you post some pictures of your set up? I know you said you are using RODI water, do you happen to have a TDS meter? I read all of the posts but didn't see that mentioned.
No I don’t should I invest in one? Is calcium considered a dissolved solid I have a calcium test kit.
 
Would definitely do it different if I restarted or another friend asked me to help, doesn’t quarantine stress fish out more since there’s less places to hide?
Sure can, yes. Many put 3-4" PVC elbows (a buck or two at Lowes) in their QT tanks. I have extra rock I usually use. Either way...fish aren't into Feng Shui so keep it simple.
 
Sure can, yes. Many put 3-4" PVC elbows (a buck or two at Lowes) in their QT tanks. I have extra rock I usually use. Either way...fish aren't into Feng Shui so keep it simple.
Should I use a hang on the back filter? I feel like if I’m waiting for a qt tank to cycle I should just restart the main tank too..... maybe that’s a little over kill?
 
No I don’t should I invest in one? Is calcium considered a dissolved solid I have a calcium test kit.
Ummm...yup. :) If you're buying DI do not trust anyone, ever without testing every container! If you're making your own, I strongly recommend getting the TDS meter kit from BRS (or similar) to sample input, stages and output. Portable pens are maybe $20-$25.
 
Since live bacteria lives on the rock and in the sand if i just change the water would I have to wait to cycle it
 
Should I use a hang on the back filter? I feel like if I’m waiting for a qt tank to cycle I should just restart the main tank too..... maybe that’s a little over kill?
I think it is worth figuring out what is wrong, then maybe set up a QT, treat the clown if there are any diseases going on, then restart your main tank. Something is weird and a fresh start might be good.

Obviously this is extreme, but sometimes a fresh start can just reset everything. This would also let you properly cycle your tank (I recommend the Lasse Method) and then you'll have a solid foundation for the future.

Not sure if calcium is a dissolved solid, but a TDS meter measures the total dissolved solids in your water. I would get one on amazon (they are fairly inexpensive) then test your RODI water. Let's start with the basic sources, then move on to more advanced troubleshooting.
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

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