Ammonia Spike

that's still hinting that a water change saved your tank, which it did not. it merely exported the adulterants that made the test kit spike in the first place.

resolved initial and common ammonia spikes linger on these cheap test kits, nobody knows why yet

seneye does not have this problem when calibrated, which is how we know to pinpoint it back to cheap test kits with lag times documented in seneye vs api ammonia resolution comparison threads linked in my prior false alert thread


reading the several instances of false alarms there will quell concerns here because all presentations are carbon copy the exact same in all instances: a symptomless post-cycle reef tank is alarmed by api, red sea or seachem cheap kits and not one loss happens before, during or after the entire event. and extra bottle bac is always sold during the event

in the thread posted, nine pages of false cycle fears caused solely by cheap test kits and not one single time by a calibrated seneye, nothing helped the 9 month old reef tank where the badge was showing 8 ppm for a month straight, don't be at the whim of known misreading test kits or you will be back in this boat next week.


that kit is controlling your confidence, not the actual science of cycling where 100% of seneye owners would never be in this boat because those calibrated meters aren't tripped up like the cheap kits are, and they don't have any lag time at all in reporting true post-cycle control over ammonia.

you never had an issue whatsoever that required correction, bottle bacteria, or a water change, it's why your tank looks the same every day even through the event.

keeping that badge in your tank is asking for doubt and to be redirected away from disease controls which have been 100% skipped and we still await payment for that. you can clearly see in Jay's disease forum that stocking with mixed pet store species gets a partial or total fish kill 80% of the time, within 8 months of setup.

when that time comes, a fish loss or a total crash from multiple fish kills when you weren't at home to remove the bodies, I guarantee you that you'll believe a priori ammonia noncontrol did it, therefore allowing you to further skip past disease preps we spoke of right at the start of your initial cycle.

holding onto continued doubt about your cycle is going to lower your enjoyment of reefing.

removing that test kit and never running ammonia again on this tank, because you don't need to, will increase your enjoyment of reefing and allow you to maybe head off the disease wipeout 80% likely to happen one day within the stated timeframes we can garner by reading how old the tanks are within the first 3 pages of Jay's disease thread (click on the name badges, select find all threads, see their first thread to establish tank age and disease controls attempted if any)



the statement was losses within eight months, there's one just a mere +4 more months out.
 
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thats what you needed to instate and read about and prepare for and devote all manner of prep/

there is no test kit that helps you maintain disease expression and import.
 
I just saw a lysmata shrimp

barely just now, on my third view as I was copying only the video posted to show some chemists about false stalls.

that is a really big deal: to have the single most weakest motile organism in reefing be just fine during a claimed ammonia noncontrol event. I made a thread for that once, about those being the best indicator in reefing that nobody is having an ammonia event. This link was discerned from thousands of cycle troubleshoots

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/n...ism-that-will-not-tolerate-bad-params.884903/

see how old cycling science NEVER asks for nor detects confirmational clues to the contrary

old cycling science believes anything a non digital test kit says without question, even if that test kit was just doubted last week in a totally separate thread. I'm shocked my peers do this, we could be helping people so much better than what we do

the lysmata brought me from 100% sure you had no ammonia issue worthy of response to 1000%.
 
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If you aren't too discouraged by the hashing of cycle science I'm truly interested in an update here

Any changes in tank health water clarity, the badge reading

Can you post a clear pic of the actual badge reading alongside any api ammonia test kit if you have one (or any brands test kit for ammonia along with the badge)

How are the tank animals

By tracking changes if any over a 48-72 hour period in the tank health we can learn a lot about your cycle status

We're not using the test kits to learn it's status, we're using the tank health compared to that prior video a few days ago to discern test kit accuracy status

A tank unable to handle ammonia from bioloading by rule will have crashed by now
 
If you aren't too discouraged by the hashing of cycle science I'm truly interested in an update here

Any changes in tank health water clarity, the badge reading

Can you post a clear pic of the actual badge reading alongside any api ammonia test kit if you have one (or any brands test kit for ammonia along with the badge)

How are the tank animals

By tracking changes if any over a 48-72 hour period in the tank health we can learn a lot about your cycle status

We're not using the test kits to learn it's status, we're using the tank health compared to that prior video a few days ago to discern test kit accuracy status

A tank unable to handle ammonia from bioloading by rule will have crashed by now
Brandon - he is not following your testless protocol - he is testing. And he is responding to those tests - whether you agree or not. Thus - IMHO - this thread is completely meaningless as to proving or disproving your theses.
 
Brandon - he is not following your testless protocol - he is testing. And he is responding to those tests - whether you agree or not. Thus - IMHO - this thread is completely meaningless as to proving or disproving your theses.
This is not 100% true, I did his testless cycling method, but I still test for nitrates every week and I have my ammonia badge as a precaution
 
If you aren't too discouraged by the hashing of cycle science I'm truly interested in an update here

Any changes in tank health water clarity, the badge reading

Can you post a clear pic of the actual badge reading alongside any api ammonia test kit if you have one (or any brands test kit for ammonia along with the badge)

How are the tank animals

By tracking changes if any over a 48-72 hour period in the tank health we can learn a lot about your cycle status

We're not using the test kits to learn it's status, we're using the tank health compared to that prior video a few days ago to discern test kit accuracy status

A tank unable to handle ammonia from bioloading by rule will have crashed by now
Here is a video of everyone I took today, tank is in good health, algae just popped up on my frag plugs, but clown behavior is normal, shrimp/goby are doing normal duties, the fire shrimp is chilling, and all my corals and RFAs are opened and seem to be doing well
 
This is not 100% true, I did his testless cycling method, but I still test for nitrates every week and I have my ammonia badge as a precaution
Correct - which means you're not using a testless cycling method. You are using an ammonia badge (as a precaution). It's no offense to you - it's just a fact. If you didn't have the ammonia badge there wouldn't be a post here.
 
Here is a video of everyone I took today, tank is in good health, algae just popped up on my frag plugs, but clown behavior is normal, shrimp/goby are doing normal duties, the fire shrimp is chilling, and all my corals and RFAs are opened and seem to be doing well
Nice - is that due to your water changes - or was your test in error - or what - curious what you think?
 
I meant something may have died and is causing the spike.
A cycled tank shouldn't be producing ammonia without something dying/decaying, excessive overfeeding, etc.
Even a dead fish should not cause a spike if the system was already processing ammonia by the same livestock .?

I’ve had large fish disappear overnight without even noticing ammonia .
 
Even a dead fish should not cause a spike if the system was already processing ammonia by the same livestock .?

I’ve had large fish disappear overnight without even noticing ammonia .
curious was it a new tank
 
Can't wait to see the test kit alongside as well. This is really crucial help you're providing to cycle detectives that's for sure/ self appointed reef tank expounders:) i appreciate it very much.
 
C pate the video didn’t load

can you post also a front facing shot of the badge and any accessory ammonia kit you have if applicable

factors in play: a water change doesn’t instill bacteria it removes some

a tank that can’t process ammonia due to overload animals doesn’t get corrected by one water change, it re ramps soon after, its addicted to water changes to stay alive due to either lack of bacteria or surface area or both, your tank has neither condition


new tanks process ammonia just fine they don’t have to be aged, they merely have to be beyond the stated cycle close date which is heavily influenced by the fact 100% of calibrated seneye cycles show the longest possible time that can take, along with the ammonia line from cycling charts, along with any study Dan and Taricha have done or will do + Dr Reefs bottle bac thread for the type of initial cycle you began with + my prior cycles logged using close-ended specific start date timing and the hundreds of tanks we have as a reference for being darn sure a start date is truly a no look back date, which your tank met

once we can see your video and today’s badge reading it adds another snippet of info to patterns one day someone will use to detect what makes these cheap test kits misread and or lag in reporting back to safety

it’s very possible a food event stressed the test but it didn’t stress your tank that’s for sure

i can’t find in your video lumps of food laying about, or unclean clogged areas of your sandbed, the claim / concern is that the fish alone + daily waste did the spike. We can assess that now, it’s been a few days since the event. Need video plus clear badge pic if possible

when Jay said in prior posts he doesn’t like the badge very much I wondered maybe it had lag time indicating either spikes or resolutions in the known ammonia event, maybe it was too subjective to read at times, not sure, he’d have to clarify why he says in some posts he doesn’t like the badge.

I recommend the badge is used for some people, quarantine efforts not display reefs (quarantine setups can run low on volume of surface area or placement in the flow path) because I prefer it over them using api ammonia but we know the final audit in any cycle doubt situation is the degree of rock used in the tank (it either matches the degree of live rock anyone uses or it’s grossly under par, risking bioload overload, and yours isn’t) plus the factors involved in the initial cycle + ***the number of days the tank has been running*** which your system has also exceeded. When a test kit disagrees with those factors, and the tank is symptomless, we know the test is wrong not the cycle.
 
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The badge reacts to ammonia almost instantaneously. After a quick jump - it can take up to 4 hours to react to a water change. (From their website): "The presence of the free ammonia is detectable continuously with a response time of about 15 minutes. Response to decreasing ammonia is slower, requiring about 4 hours to go from TOXIC to SAFE on removal of ammonia."
 
C pate the video didn’t load

can you post also a front facing shot of the badge and any accessory ammonia kit you have if applicable

factors in play: a water change doesn’t instill bacteria it removes some

a tank that can’t process ammonia due to overload animals doesn’t get corrected by one water change, it re ramps soon after, its addicted to water changes to stay alive due to either lack of bacteria or surface area or both, your tank has neither condition


new tanks process ammonia just fine they don’t have to be aged, they merely have to be beyond the stated cycle close date which is heavily influenced by the fact 100% of calibrated seneye cycles show the longest possible time that can take, along with the ammonia line from cycling charts, along with any study Dan and Taricha have done or will do + Dr Reefs bottle bac thread for the type of initial cycle you began with + my prior cycles logged using close-ended specific start date timing and the hundreds of tanks we have as a reference for being darn sure a start date is truly a no look back date, which your tank met

once we can see your video and today’s badge reading it adds another snippet of info to patterns one day someone will use to detect what makes these cheap test kits misread and or lag in reporting back to safety

it’s very possible a food event stressed the test but it didn’t stress your tank that’s for sure

i can’t find in your video lumps of food laying about, or unclean clogged areas of your sandbed, the claim / concern is that the fish alone + daily waste did the spike. We can assess that now, it’s been a few days since the event. Need video plus clear badge pic if possible

when Jay said in prior posts he doesn’t like the badge very much I wondered maybe it had lag time indicating either spikes or resolutions in the known ammonia event, maybe it was too subjective to read at times, not sure, he’d have to clarify why he says in some posts he doesn’t like the badge.

I recommend the badge is used for some people, quarantine efforts not display reefs (quarantine setups can run low on volume of surface area or placement in the flow path) because I prefer it over them using api ammonia but we know the final audit in any cycle doubt situation is the degree of rock used in the tank (it either matches the degree of live rock anyone uses or it’s grossly under par, risking bioload overload, and yours isn’t) plus the factors involved in the initial cycle + ***the number of days the tank has been running*** which your system has also exceeded. When a test kit disagrees with those factors, and the tank is symptomless, we know the test is wrong not the cycle.
I would do the following experiment. Take a 40 gallon tank - with 2 clownfish that fits your definition of 'cycled'. On the 11th day, add 40 more clownfish, and see what happens to the ammonia. The tank is only cycled to the amount of ammonia added IMHO
 
This is not 100% true, I did his testless cycling method, but I still test for nitrates every week and I have my ammonia badge as a precaution
Sorry my point was not clear. And maybe I misunderstand the testless cycle method. It seems to me that if you're using a test for ammonia (constant) - and acting on the test, and are testing nitrates, in fact you're not following a testless method. The results of your tests suggest that you had a real ammonia spike (whether your free ammonia increased substantially IDK).
 
C pate the video didn’t load

can you post also a front facing shot of the badge and any accessory ammonia kit you have if applicable

factors in play: a water change doesn’t instill bacteria it removes some

a tank that can’t process ammonia due to overload animals doesn’t get corrected by one water change, it re ramps soon after, its addicted to water changes to stay alive due to either lack of bacteria or surface area or both, your tank has neither condition


new tanks process ammonia just fine they don’t have to be aged, they merely have to be beyond the stated cycle close date which is heavily influenced by the fact 100% of calibrated seneye cycles show the longest possible time that can take, along with the ammonia line from cycling charts, along with any study Dan and Taricha have done or will do + Dr Reefs bottle bac thread for the type of initial cycle you began with + my prior cycles logged using close-ended specific start date timing and the hundreds of tanks we have as a reference for being darn sure a start date is truly a no look back date, which your tank met

once we can see your video and today’s badge reading it adds another snippet of info to patterns one day someone will use to detect what makes these cheap test kits misread and or lag in reporting back to safety

it’s very possible a food event stressed the test but it didn’t stress your tank that’s for sure

i can’t find in your video lumps of food laying about, or unclean clogged areas of your sandbed, the claim / concern is that the fish alone + daily waste did the spike. We can assess that now, it’s been a few days since the event. Need video plus clear badge pic if possible

when Jay said in prior posts he doesn’t like the badge very much I wondered maybe it had lag time indicating either spikes or resolutions in the known ammonia event, maybe it was too subjective to read at times, not sure, he’d have to clarify why he says in some posts he doesn’t like the badge.

I recommend the badge is used for some people, quarantine efforts not display reefs (quarantine setups can run low on volume of surface area or placement in the flow path) because I prefer it over them using api ammonia but we know the final audit in any cycle doubt situation is the degree of rock used in the tank (it either matches the degree of live rock anyone uses or it’s grossly under par, risking bioload overload, and yours isn’t) plus the factors involved in the initial cycle + ***the number of days the tank has been running*** which your system has also exceeded. When a test kit disagrees with those factors, and the tank is symptomless, we know the test is wrong not the cycle.
Sorry my point was not clear. And maybe I misunderstand the testless cycle method. It seems to me that if you're using a test for ammonia (constant) - and acting on the test, and are testing nitrates, in fact you're not following a testless method. The results of your tests suggest that you had a real ammonia spike (whether your free ammonia increased substantially IDK).
I get what you’re saying, I used his method to cycle my tank, however yes am still testing because to me it makes the most sense to diagnose problems
 
C pate the video didn’t load

can you post also a front facing shot of the badge and any accessory ammonia kit you have if applicable

factors in play: a water change doesn’t instill bacteria it removes some

a tank that can’t process ammonia due to overload animals doesn’t get corrected by one water change, it re ramps soon after, its addicted to water changes to stay alive due to either lack of bacteria or surface area or both, your tank has neither condition


new tanks process ammonia just fine they don’t have to be aged, they merely have to be beyond the stated cycle close date which is heavily influenced by the fact 100% of calibrated seneye cycles show the longest possible time that can take, along with the ammonia line from cycling charts, along with any study Dan and Taricha have done or will do + Dr Reefs bottle bac thread for the type of initial cycle you began with + my prior cycles logged using close-ended specific start date timing and the hundreds of tanks we have as a reference for being darn sure a start date is truly a no look back date, which your tank met

once we can see your video and today’s badge reading it adds another snippet of info to patterns one day someone will use to detect what makes these cheap test kits misread and or lag in reporting back to safety

it’s very possible a food event stressed the test but it didn’t stress your tank that’s for sure

i can’t find in your video lumps of food laying about, or unclean clogged areas of your sandbed, the claim / concern is that the fish alone + daily waste did the spike. We can assess that now, it’s been a few days since the event. Need video plus clear badge pic if possible

when Jay said in prior posts he doesn’t like the badge very much I wondered maybe it had lag time indicating either spikes or resolutions in the known ammonia event, maybe it was too subjective to read at times, not sure, he’d have to clarify why he says in some posts he doesn’t like the badge.

I recommend the badge is used for some people, quarantine efforts not display reefs (quarantine setups can run low on volume of surface area or placement in the flow path) because I prefer it over them using api ammonia but we know the final audit in any cycle doubt situation is the degree of rock used in the tank (it either matches the degree of live rock anyone uses or it’s grossly under par, risking bioload overload, and yours isn’t) plus the factors involved in the initial cycle + ***the number of days the tank has been running*** which your system has also exceeded. When a test kit disagrees with those factors, and the tank is symptomless, we know the test is wrong not the cycle.
I will have to get a new video with some white light when I get home
 
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IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

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    Votes: 26 37.1%
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