I hate you burst your bubble, but if this spreadsheet is based on anecdotal evidence then it doesn't hold much weight, nor does it serve a good purpose. Frankly, it spreads more misinformation than anything else. There are quite a few different criteria, aside from simply the species, that determine whether or not anemones can live with one another in the same tank.

An many of the posts in this thread have already pointed out, there are always going to be exceptions to what's stated in the spreadsheet (I have quite a few that I can mention as well), and that in itself limits its usefulness. For example:
  1. A quick glance at the chart makes the assumption that anemones of the same species can live together. If this is not the assumption, then the check mark where the same species currently intersect should be removed. Species that reproduce via cloning (BTA and to a lesser extent, magnifica) oftentimes live together in large colonies. However, it is also believed that that are solitary forms of these same species that live alone (and tend to get larger than their colonial counterparts) and don't like being next to one another. However, they can still be in the same tank.

  2. The size of the tank and type of filtration used can oftentimes mitigate the effects of allelopathy, if it even exists. You will find that in larger tanks, anemones of all species can be mixed together with long term success. The CA Academy of Sciences has a tank that houses gigantea, magnfica, and BTAs -- albiet in a tank that's 212,000 gallons.

  3. In terms of success, how do we measure it? How long must these anemones live together -- and thrive -- to conclude that they are, or are not compatible?

  4. Assuming that one anemone dies, how do we conclude that is was directly caused by another anemone, and therefore considered not compatible?
I applaud the effort taken to create the spreadsheet. But it can't be based on one or two hobbyists reporting what's happening in their tanks. People will look at the spreadsheet and take it for fact. I see the asterisk at the bottom, but that should really be at the top and be a clear caveat.
 
I've seen tanks with bubble tips and long tenticles together but here it says they cant?...
 
This is from the lfs bubble tips, condys,rocks all in the same tank

20160407_124021.jpg

Is this tank still up and running? Would love to see a recent picture!
 
So, after having kept almost every type of anemone, with varying levels of success I think this sheet, while generally correct, deserves some healthy debate.

I used to believe that BTAs were fine with others of the same species, I recently encountered information to the contrary that aligned with personal experiences.

I have about 15-20 RBTAs in my 100 gallon, most of which I couldn't kill if I tried. However, every time I add a green or purple BTA, they generally go south within a couple weeks, regardless of size, initial health, feeding and attention from my clowns.

The latest issue of Reef Hobbyist (yeah, the free one you probably get at your LFS) talks about not mixing wild BTAs with tank raised. My buddy, who propagates high end nems for a living and has had similar experiences.

It seems like morphs from different places may not be as compatible as we've assumed? Of course this is anecdotal, but I wonder if this is a common problem or just my bad luck?
 
Hey guys I was thinking about buying a rose bubble tip anemones but I wasn't sure what he would do to my Duncan coral?
 
According to the list a Condy can touch a Rock Flower, but my Rock Flower retracts whenever the Condy brushes up against it. In the picture you can see the Condy on the right and just to the left of that the Rock Flower. This picture was taken before I added some rocks to create a small dividing wall between the two nems so they wouldn't touch.

HDGfwi1h.jpg
 
Hi guys! I followed the Anemone Compatibility Spreadsheet and added the small Carpet Anemone into my tank, I already have small Bubble Tip in tank for a week. I'm not sure the carpet doing well or not but it does look like it shrink up super tight, it's also ate a piece of shrimp meat last night. (see the first picture).
Carpet.jpg

And the bubble tip look all fine and happy in the upper top rock around 10 inches away from the carpet anemone (Bubble picture below).
Bubble.jpg

I just want to know it's normal for the new Carpet or I'm having problem with chemical warfare between the 2 Anemones, I'm also running carbon in my tank and all water condition are meet requirement (Nitrate around 10 ppm).
Thanks for any tips and advance!
 
^^^^I already got my answer for the above post.
Thanks for reading!
 
IMO, anemones are finicky animals. There are times that they do not do well, no mater what we do. Many reefers tend to blame it on another anemone, if in the tank, rather than thinks that they are not able to provide adequate condition for the anemone.
IMO, anemones can attack each other directly, but I am highly doubt that they enrage in chemical warfare. In the open water of the ocean, toxin added to the water will never be effective. Because of this reason, producing toxin which are highly energy intensive, to just dump it out in the open water is highly counter productive. In addition to this, if an animal just dump toxin into the water, the most likely animal that would get injure is itself.
 
First post. Been lurking for years but thought I might as well join the conversations now. :)

Here is my picture of my Haddoni and Malu. They touch frequently. It's already on the compatibility chart but nice to have a photo.

Welcome! Also, thanks for sharing pictures.
 
So I have this maxi mini and would like to add a rainbow bta and a rock flower. The tank is 40 gallons. If I'm understanding correctly, these should be compatible?
0119181551b.jpg
 
This pair, a Magnifica and a Gigantea, have been touching each other for more than 1 year. No problem with either, both are in perfect health.
I think this chart is useless, not relevant or accurate.
Mag-Gig2018022801.jpg
 
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I used to believe that BTAs were fine with others of the same species, I recently encountered information to the contrary that aligned with personal experiences.

I have about 15-20 RBTAs in my 100 gallon, most of which I couldn't kill if I tried. However, every time I add a green or purple BTA, they generally go south within a couple weeks, regardless of size, initial health, feeding and attention from my clowns.

Is this the case with most of you folks?
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

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  • No.

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  • Other (please explain).

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