Anemone help needed

[Double J]

Is your LED the current marine pro or just the current marine? If it's the pro then you should be fine with just that.

it is the non-pro version, i was thinking of adding a second one, but it wont fit in my canopy and still allow me to feed the fish, i have an acrylic tank and the top openings are a lot smaller then a glass tank, but i could add a smaller size light, maybe the 18" one and have it to the one side.
do you think my current light is enough for mushrooms and zoas? or is there anything else i could keep under it? The way the nem looks I think it might be a goner already. The last time i had anemones i got them with a whole set up i bought, so i dont have much experience with the acclimation period.

 

[Double J]

Lighting seems to be the issue. What are your water parameters?

i have the water temp at 76, have a finnex heater on a contoller. Ph was 8.1 and i just added some buffer the day before adding the new fish and inverts to bring it up, i need to check it again. last water test was a week ago and everything was at 0. salinity was 1.024, and i use a refractometer, my old hydrometer, seemed unreliable so made the upgrade. I will do more testing tonight.

 

[lolsubii]

The non pro isn't sufficient for even zoas and shrooms. I had one on my first tank out of mistake and they never did well. The non pro is only blue and white so it isn't full spectrum at all. Once I put a full spectrum in them they exploded and looked amazing.

 

[Double J]

Is your LED the current marine pro or just the current marine? If it's the pro then you should be fine with just that.

my light is the non-pro, talking to some others they had thought this would be enough for the nem. at worst case I will have to add a second light i guess.
another question, is there anything that might do well under this light? maybe mushroms and zoas?

 

[Double J]

my light is the non-pro, talking to some others they had thought this would be enough for the nem. at worst case I will have to add a second light i guess.
another question, is there anything that might do well under this light? maybe mushroms and zoas?

sorry for double post, my page wasnt refreshing. well i guess i might as well sell this one and get a black box, anyone have recommendations? dont want to spend a fortune, anything nice out there for $200-250 range? i really like the dawn/dusk feature, the clouds and lightning are neat, but rarely use that now that i have fish in the tank. Thanks

https://sbreeflights.com/sbox-reef-lights/3-sbox-elite-ramping.html#/2-powder_coating-yes_please

i was kind of thinking about this one.

 

[lolsubii]

I think those lights are really only good for fish only tanks. How big is your tank? For the price you'd prolly be better go with one of the bigger brands

 

[ReefQueen]

sorry for double post, my page wasnt refreshing. well i guess i might as well sell this one and get a black box, anyone have recommendations? dont want to spend a fortune, anything nice out there for $200-250 range? i really like the dawn/dusk feature, the clouds and lightning are neat, but rarely use that now that i have fish in the tank. Thanks

https://sbreeflights.com/sbox-reef-lights/3-sbox-elite-ramping.html#/2-powder_coating-yes_please

i was kind of thinking about this one.

I had the orbit light you have now, and upgraded to the SB elite you are thinking of getting. You will not regret it. I did have ok growth with the orbit, but I wanted something I could hang and that had a better spectrum. For the record my anemones, shrooms, and zoas did fantastic under the orbit, but definitely are loving the SB more

 

[Double J]

I had the orbit light you have now, and upgraded to the SB elite you are thinking of getting. You will not regret it. I did have ok growth with the orbit, but I wanted something I could hang and that had a better spectrum. For the record my anemones, shrooms, and zoas did fantastic under the orbit, but definitely are loving the SB more

Thanks! looking at sbreef's website, they say their lenses are better and last more then the year you would get out of other brands. I'm not too familiar with this, so the led bulbs should last say 10 years, but the lens will go bad? anyone have any experience or thoughts on that?

 

[ReefQueen]

Thanks! looking at sbreef's website, they say their lenses are better and last more then the year you would get out of other brands. I'm not too familiar with this, so the led bulbs should last say 10 years, but the lens will go bad? anyone have any experience or thoughts on that?

I have not heard of lenses only lasting a year, but I haven't had mine that long yet. Let's bring in Mike @SB Reef Lights. Since this is his product, he would be the one to ask the technical questions lol

 

[Double J]

I have not heard of lenses only lasting a year, but I haven't had mine that long yet. Let's bring in Mike @SB Reef Lights. Since this is his product, he would be the one to ask the technical questions lol

just looking on their website, it says its just the uv lights, and theirs should last 2-3 years vs 1 year of competitors. and are supposed to be fairly easy to replace. I really like the look of this light, since I could get in it white to match my tanks stand and canopy, just gotta talk the wife into it, haha.

 

[Double J]

I think those lights are really only good for fish only tanks. How big is your tank? For the price you'd prolly be better go with one of the bigger brands

tank is a 50 gallon 36" longx 15" wide and 20" tall

 

[SB Reef Lights]

Thanks! looking at sbreef's website, they say their lenses are better and last more then the year you would get out of other brands. I'm not too familiar with this, so the led bulbs should last say 10 years, but the lens will go bad? anyone have any experience or thoughts on that?

I have not heard of lenses only lasting a year, but I haven't had mine that long yet. Let's bring in Mike @SB Reef Lights. Since this is his product, he would be the one to ask the technical questions lol

Hey guys. The issue is diodes under 400nm. The wavelength will degrade plastics over time. That causes the lens cap to frost over ( and darken) giving less output but more importantly reflecting light back generating more heat and resistance. Eventually the diode's resistance increases enough due to heat it burns out. You do not have this issue with 420nm violets for example. We are only talking about the true UV diodes.

What most companies call the UV diodes or channel are simply violet, not UV.

In order to extend the life of our "True UV" 395nm diodes we use an inorganic body combined with a silica lens. Even then eventually you may have to replace them, which is straight forward if you can solder or have a friend who can. Or want to send the light back to us. We even provide the UV diodes at cost after the warranty runs out. My testing units are over 2 years old now and doing well. No noticeable frosting. Of course power level and photo period have a lot to do with lifespan.

 

[Double J]

Hey guys. The issue is diodes under 400nm. The wavelength will degrade plastics over time. That causes the lens cap to frost over ( and darken) giving less output but more importantly reflecting light back generating more heat and resistance. Eventually the diode's resistance increases enough due to heat it burns out. You do not have this issue with 420nm violets for example. We are only talking about the true UV diodes.

What most companies call the UV diodes or channel are simply violet, not UV.

In order to extend the life of our "True UV" 395nm diodes we use an inorganic body combined with a silica lens. Even then eventually you may have to replace them, which is straight forward if you can solder or have a friend who can. Or want to send the light back to us. We even provide the UV diodes at cost after the warranty runs out. My testing units are over 2 years old now and doing well. No noticeable frosting. Of course power level and photo period have a lot to do with lifespan.

Thanks for the info! So what is the difference between the ramping model and the wifi model? Is it pretty much the same but you can make changes from an app? I like the idea of being able to see what I'm trying to do from the couch and not over the tank

 

[SB Reef Lights]

Thanks for the info! So what is the difference between the ramping model and the wifi model? Is it pretty much the same but you can make changes from an app? I like the idea of being able to see what I'm trying to do from the couch and not over the tank

The Elite Ramping allows you to set teh intensity of each of the 3 channels every 10 minutes for a very smooth sunrise and sunset effect, or to program in cloud cover mid day etc. 10 minutes is the smallest interval, however you can go as large as 30 minutes or 1 hour if you want a chunky ramp, not sure why some one. Most other ramping black boxes only go to 30 minutes so we give 3 times the resolution. Light includes a control panel for display and programming plus a remote control for switching modes, or programming. Unit is 327w rated power.

The Extreme WiFi is similar however the control is through your phone. up to 48 set points on IOS Apple and 38 set points on Android. Again far more set points than our competitors which only give you 10 total. You can use your phone to program the ramp, go into a manual control mode, plus set fans, router hook up, and power. On the WiFi app you can save settings so you can have several programs. For example on my display tank I run 4 programs on my tank. Main program 1, New coral 1, 2 and 3. When I add a new coral, I hit new coral 1 which is 15% less intensity. A week later I hit NEw Coral 2, which is 10% down, then 3 at 5% down and finally back to regular intensity on the main program. Makes coral acclimitization a snap.

Also our WiFi is the only black box that can operate through your home router, allowing you to control up to 12 lights at once. With competitor lights you have to connect to each light one at a time. SO if you have a 125g tank with 3x 16" lights, changing the tank to all blues to show a friend mid day takes 5 minutes. With ours they all work together.

Not all black boxes are created equal! We use only name brand RoHS approved drivers, Epistar diodes (Superior to bridgelux), upgraded ultra quiet ball bearing fans, thicker heat sink, 18g wiring (Instead of 22g), plus all components are modular for easy replacement. Then add in mounting legs, a hanging kit and 2 year warranty.

 

[Double J]

Just got home and the nem is inflated again still hiding but looks "ok". Also, pretty positive I'm going to go with sbreef lighting, thinking a 16" model either the ramping or wifi model. with that should I keep the nem under my current led light and wait for him to adapt and then switch, or would it be better to switch as soon as possible?
Here's a picture of the nem at the moment.

 

[Double J]

Sorry last message was from about an hour ago, must not have posted it, here is what it looks like now, it has gotten a lot bigger, is it possible for it to get stuck in the rocks? It's not a very big area under there, and the 2 camel shrimp are in there too

 

[SB Reef Lights]

When you switch lights simply run the power down and bring it up over a few weeks watching the nem and corals for signs of bleaching. Lights pack a heck of a punch so start lower than you think you need. For example when folks put our retro fit boards into a MarsAqua box they have to turn intensity down around 20% to compensate for the higher PUR percent of PAR.

 

[Double J]

When you switch lights simply run the power down and bring it up over a few weeks watching the nem and corals for signs of bleaching. Lights pack a heck of a punch so start lower than you think you need. For example when folks put our retro fit boards into a MarsAqua box they have to turn intensity down around 20% to compensate for the higher PUR percent of PAR.

would a single 16" be enough over my 50 gallon? is is a seaclear acrylic tank. 36" x 15" around 20-21 deep. but 3" of sand on bottom. Only plan to keep my anemone and add mushrooms, zoas, and maybe some softies, no sps. also i would be hanging it from the ceiling.

 

[Double J]

Here it is now that I'm home, should I try to feed it? Does it look as bad as I think ?

 

[SB Reef Lights]

would a single 16" be enough over my 50 gallon? is is a seaclear acrylic tank. 36" x 15" around 20-21 deep. but 3" of sand on bottom. Only plan to keep my anemone and add mushrooms, zoas, and maybe some softies, no sps. also i would be hanging it from the ceiling.

A single 16 is fine for up to a 40B 36x18, however out would need to be hung 14" over the water with optics removed. They are easy to take off. That will give you better coverage end to end with better color blend. You'll have more power than you'll ever need.