Angelfish sick

[Andresnyc93]

I guess at this point I’ve gotta try get them back to health while I figure out the space issue..

if we’re talking bacterial infection, is that something that can get better on its own or do I have to urgently treat it

and what sort of treatment would you do without a QT?

You should take care of it because it can become a bigger problem. You can use metronidazole bonded with focus if you want to mix it in with food but if neither of the fish are eating this is also an alternative route to treat the infections.

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[bruno3047]

You should be aware of something regarding bacterial infections. The first thing you must determine is whether it is a gram-negative, or a gram-positive bacteria that is the problem. Gram-positive therapy will not work on a gram-negative bacteria and vice versa. Try to identify what type of bacteria is causing your problem before you start administering therapies that could end up harming the fish, especially in a quarantine/hospital tank that has a very weak biological filter.

 

[bruno3047]

Are either of the fish eating and if so, how aggressively?

 

[bruno3047]

Here’s something you could read:

Bacteria and Antibiotics in the Aquarium

Bacteria and antibiotics affect the aquarium and your fish. Know their consequences before using them.

www.algone.com

 

[Aronsaquarium]

Thank you all so much for all your help here!
So with the testing, the LFS reading came up similar to mine but I don’t know what brand they used, I just know it wasn’t API..

min terms of treating them, short of me having to buy a QT; is there anything that can be put in the display that won’t harm the beneficial/nitrifbacteria?
It’s only fish in there..
the Bicolor was grazing on rock algea
The first day and the Emperor ate a couple small pieces. He actually looked confused by the food chasing them but not wanted them.
the second day I added the rocks and all hell broke loose, both fish didn’t eat that day.
Today the Emperor is eating again just 3/4 piece of food max a meal.. he’ll chase the first few and then his done.
So not a big appetite but better than yesterday..

the bicolor is staying in one place.
I shut off the filter and wave pump for a min and he licked a couple rocks for a second but that was it. No food in 3 days for him

is there an easy way to distinguish the bacteria?
The other fish are fine, so does that mean they can potentially pull through it?

 

[bruno3047]

Thank you all so much for all your help here!
So with the testing, the LFS reading came up similar to mine but I don’t know what brand they used, I just know it wasn’t API..

min terms of treating them, short of me having to buy a QT; is there anything that can be put in the display that won’t harm the beneficial/nitrifbacteria?
It’s only fish in there..
the Bicolor was grazing on rock algea
The first day and the Emperor ate a couple small pieces. He actually looked confused by the food chasing them but not wanted them.
the second day I added the rocks and all hell broke loose, both fish didn’t eat that day.
Today the Emperor is eating again just 3/4 piece of food max a meal.. he’ll chase the first few and then his done.
So not a big appetite but better than yesterday..

the bicolor is staying in one place.
I shut off the filter and wave pump for a min and he licked a couple rocks for a second but that was it. No food in 3 days for him

is there an easy way to distinguish the bacteria?
The other fish are fine, so does that mean they can potentially pull through it?

Have you ever performed a fresh water bath?

 

[bruno3047]

I read in a previous post that you have a coral beauty that is bullying the bicolor? It’s going to be very difficult to cure the bicolor if he’s being bullied. Do you have a tank divider so you can separate them?

 

[Andresnyc93]

Well the other fish aren’t the issue since they don’t have any wounds then they should be fine. Regarding the emperor and bicolor If it was me I would either separate them from the aggressors and treat them separately. I would also take them back to the fish store. Even if you treat the bacterial infections that’s not going to stop aggression and it’s just going to be a never ending cycle.

 

[Aronsaquarium]

Fresh water bath with something added or just a freshwater dip?
I did a quick dip on the Emperor today didn’t do much..

although update Hes eating more now than this morning.
Hes just eating super slow and doesn’t want to work too hard after the first 3 pieces so i turned off the filter and pump and Hes slowly eating one here and there


but he’s fin seems to be getting more eating up at the back which is my worry

the bicolor isn’t eating

 

[Aronsaquarium]

Thanks have a tank divider, it’ll be super tough and stressful for him to catch him though

I’ll have to mess up the rock work but gotta do what I gotta do

 

[Aronsaquarium]

If I’m keeping him in the DT though what should I be using to treat?

 

[Andresnyc93]

A freshwater dip won’t do anything to your issue. FW dips only help with flukes brook and ich both white and black. This is a different type of bacterial infection. You need medication. If neither are eating much I would give the fritz maracyn two a try.

 

[Aronsaquarium]

Ok amazing thanks so much

And I put that in the DT?
I have PraziPro and a little copper in there, is there any danger with adding this?
and does it effect the good bacteria or doesn’t get in the way?

 

[Andresnyc93]

It sounds like you’re treating a lot of stuff. Why are you dosing prazi and copper right now? Your other fish have some sort of parasitic infection?

 

[bruno3047]

If I’m keeping him in the DT though what should I be using to treat?

I was going to propose a freshwater bath properly prepared with tapwater. The idea would be to allow the chlorine in the tapwater to attack the bacterial infection. I’ve done this successfully on angelfish, however they were both eating. It eliminates the question regarding gram-negative or gram-positive bacteria. The chlorine will attack and kill both kinds of bacteria. Unfortunately, it sounds like netting the fish out of your tank is stressful to the fish. That’s not good. We don’t want to stress them too much. You could try it once with the bicolor and see if that white spot on his side gets smaller after the bath. If it does, then you could do it again 48 hours later and every other day until it’s gone. Or if you feel more comfortable with the emperor since she’s eating we could try that. If there’s no effect, then don’t do a second bath. You could then take a shot with one of the medications, but as you’re aware, that’s hit or miss if you don’t know what kind of bacteria you’re dealing with. Let me know if you want to move forward with the tapwater bath

 

[Andresnyc93]

I have never heard of a tap water dip. Tapwater has been proven to be toxic to all marine and freshwater fish. It sounds like torture for the poor fishes.

 

[bruno3047]

I have never heard of a tap water dip. Tapwater has been proven to be toxic to all marine and freshwater fish. It sounds like torture for the poor fishes.

Are you calling me a liar?

 

[vetteguy53081]

Fin and tail rot are a Gram-negative bacterial infection and OP was given medications to consider for such.
Freshwater bath will do nothing for this condition derived from aggression.
Some preventative measures are :
-Separating the fish that is aggressive to prevent further damage
-Maintaining a proper environment (i.e. clean water) for your fish to live in.
Providing good diet supplemented by immunity boosters such as garlic extract and vitamin boosters for stamina such as selcon vitamins.

 

[vetteguy53081]

I have never heard of a tap water dip. Tapwater has been proven to be toxic to all marine and freshwater fish. It sounds like torture for the poor fishes.

Tapwater can be used for a FW dip but typically used for flukes, velvet and brook and imposes stress on a fish.

 

[bruno3047]

Fin and tail rot are a Gram-negative bacterial infection and OP was given medications to consider for such.
Freshwater bath will do nothing for this condition derived from aggression.
Some preventative measures are :
-Separating the fish that is aggressive to prevent further damage
-Maintaining a proper environment (i.e. clean water) for your fish to live in.
Providing good diet supplemented by immunity boosters such as garlic extract and vitamin boosters for stamina such as selcon vitamins.

You’re the same guy who told that girl to put an air stone into her shipping bag and then the fish died overnight.