Anthias dropping like flies in my QT.

[shred5]

Update: The population has stabilized at 4 for the last 48 hours. I fed them canalus, which they seemed to eat. It's difficult to tell though because the canalus is so small. I plan to introduce them to my DT tomorrow night after completing the tank transfer method. Yes, it is an abbreviated quarantine, but I am hoping that they will do better in the DT with more room, hiding places, and food sources.

As to oxygen levels, my powerhead is agitating the surface, AND I have an airstone. I doubt that oxygen is an issue.

It is very helpful for people to chime in on their experience with anthias, so thank you all for that (and the other comments too).

Yea but that still is a lot for a 20 gallon.. Fact it stabilized at 4 could also point to low oxygen levels.


Also did you test for ammonia?

 

[Hal3134]

Also did you test for ammonia?

I did not. I figure that doing tank transfer every 72 hours is keeping the ammonia level low. In the scientific spirit I probably should, but my ammonia test kit is several years expired. I suppose I could add a few drops of Prime each day.

 

[Hal3134]

Also did you test for ammonia?

I did not. I figure that doing tank transfer every 72 hours is keeping the ammonia level low. In the scientific spirit I probably should, but my ammonia test kit is several years expired. I suppose I could add a few drops of Prime each day.

 

[Bouncingsoul39]

72 hours with no filtration and you’re adding food? This tank is an ammonia factory. No question.

 

[Haydn]

As you say 'it has stabilised at 4' would seem to rule out any commutable diseases and suggests you need to consider physical or biological issues. I don't use the tank transfer method but would suggest you need to test everything regularly, especially with a high, delicate fish load. To make sure you are on top of things and can react quickly should there be an issue with any parameter.

 

[Hal3134]

Yes, I added a few drops of prime during day 2 of my last tank transfer just in case. I think I may start doing this regularly, at least until I get an ammonia test kit. I don't like the ammonia badges because I need to dry them out every 3 days and I don't know if that hurts their accuracy or lifespan.

As an aside, the anthias continue to eat canalus, which is sold as "plankton" in frozen cubes. Just be careful to check the label as I noticed that another cube labeled "plankton" is NOT canalus. I still haven't seen a feeding response for anything else that I've tried.

 

[Hal3134]

double post

 

[Lasse]

Most ammonia tests (not the Seachem ammonia alert) test total ammonia (both NH3 and NH4) It is only NH3 that is toxic. How much NH3 it will be (of the total amount) is depended of pH and temperature. Higher pH - > higher percentage of NH3. This tool will help you to determine the NH3 part of a given pH and total ammonia concentration (NH3/NH4)

Sincerely Lasse