Any help as to why these are dying??

[wculver]

Those colormetric tests are always hard to tell, especially with a picture of a test. But if you think this is more like .2 that is going to be considered very high. Likely you are also on the up-swing of Phsophate with the new tank so it'll continue to increase without any action and addition of roids.

So what do do? You can move forward with the water changes but it's going to be a challenge to reduce that number with water changes alone. A pretty quick solution is GFO, of course to do this I would suggest a test you didn't have to guess where you're at. It's easy enough to use, put it in a media bag and in an area of high water flow. Do not bottom out the Phosphate and make a target of around .01-.03. You may have to run this multiple rounds as you'll have to sap out the phsophate from the rockscape like I'd mentioned.

 

[Brancho]

Those colormetric tests are always hard to tell, especially with a picture of a test. But if you think this is more like .2 that is going to be considered very high. Likely you are also on the up-swing of Phsophate with the new tank so it'll continue to increase without any action and addition of roids.

So what do do? You can move forward with the water changes but it's going to be a challenge to reduce that number with water changes alone. A pretty quick solution is GFO, of course to do this I would suggest a test you didn't have to guess where you're at. It's easy enough to use, put it in a media bag and in an area of high water flow. Do not bottom out the Phosphate and make a target of around .01-.03. You may have to run this multiple rounds as you'll have to sap out the phsophate from the rockscape like I'd mentioned.

I have a phosphate remover phosban-l

 

[Screwgunner]

I do not like phosban Sam I am. It is very small gfo and very dirty. Rinse it well . Phosgaurd is what I use. You have to change it every four days but it works and not a big mess.

 

[AcroNerd]

beside the things that have already been said, I would suggest you to stop feeding reef roids to avoid any more ammonia instability, in new tanks the nutrient outtake is very low, so the nutrients in the water are sufficient a first.

 

[Brancho]

beside the things that have already been said, I would suggest you to stop feeding reef roids to avoid any more ammonia instability, in new tanks the nutrient outtake is very low, so the nutrients in the water are sufficient a first.

So no feed at all. Elixir?

 

[Rmckoy]

So any tips or just let it runs its course ans keep maintaining it

Correct the issues such as low salinity .
Correct one thing at a time and wait . Let the system adjust to the changes
Chances are if the flesh is missing or falling off . They will most likely die .
Lesson learned and time to move forward .

 

[Mr. Mojo Rising]

Good suggestions made on this thread. Clams dont die just because the owner leaves for 4 days, nothing should die in 4 days, its a red flag that something is off with the system.

 

[Rick's Reviews]

Just out of curiosity, what was you feeding reef roids to and how, did you use a syringe or just place in aquriam
Thanks

 

[Brancho]

Just out of curiosity, what was you feeding reef roids to and how, did you use a syringe or just place in aquriam
Thanks

Inhave about 8 corals birds nests mushroom hammer zoas duncan. Thick roids mix straight to coral in a dropper plus plankton

 

[AcroNerd]

So no feed at all. Elixir?

I personally wouldn't feed anything beside the fish, try not feeding for a week while tracking nitrite, phosphate, and ammonia and see if there's an improvement.
in the future, when your tank will be more mature you can try dosing it again, but I personally would feed only if your PO4 and NO3 are undetectable.

 

[Rick's Reviews]

Thank you

Inhave about 8 corals birds nests mushroom hammer zoas duncan. Thick roids mix straight to coral in a dropper plus plankton

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