Hello everyone! I recently purchased a green wall hammer coral and can not get it to open up. I have had the coral for a week. So far I have just saw the tips of its tentacles come out, but now it's not even doing that.. And algae is growing on it for some reason. It wasn't happy in the rocks so I placed it in the substrate. It seemed to like it better there but now I am afraid it has died and I'm wondering if I should remove it from the tank. I tested the water and all my parameters are in good shape. I will try to get a good pic of it in its current state. Thanks!
Any help for green wall hammer coral?
- Thread starter Ashley L
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joshkirkland83
Valuable Member
+1Ammonia
NO2
NO3
PO4
MG
CA
ALK
# plz
Sorry guys, I wasn't getting the notifications for your replies. I have fixed my email now. Anyway, the hammer didn't make it. I don't know what happened. My new corals aren't opening up yet either (pink plate coral and sun coral). My parameters are pretty good aside from my nitrate going up a little:
Ammonia:0
Nitrite:0
Nitrate:15
High range ph: 8.2
Phosphate:0
Calcium:350
Magnesium: 1140
Carbonate Hardness: 4.60
I just started dosing brightwell trace elements and am about to start adding calcium and magnesium to see if that helps. Is there anything else I can do? All my other corals are doing fantastic.
Ammonia:0
Nitrite:0
Nitrate:15
High range ph: 8.2
Phosphate:0
Calcium:350
Magnesium: 1140
Carbonate Hardness: 4.60
I just started dosing brightwell trace elements and am about to start adding calcium and magnesium to see if that helps. Is there anything else I can do? All my other corals are doing fantastic.
jamie callard
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Sun coral can be hard needs to be fed directly when it opens i find my sun does better in a dark cave in my tank.
Flow and lighting can also affect corals. Make sure they get placed in the right area and aclimate them
Flow and lighting can also affect corals. Make sure they get placed in the right area and aclimate them
Thansk for the tips! Mine had the very tips of its tentacles showing when I fed it reef roids yesterday, but they were barely showing at all. I was told to place it lower in the tank where it gets moderate lighting and flow. I have it on a ledge in the lower third of my tank where it is getting moderate lighting and flow. I've only had it for about a week. Should I give it more time to come out or would you suggest I move it?
jamie callard
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It is non photosynthetic so it does not use light at all i have trained mine to open every day around 5pm when i feed the tank. Was blowimg food past it around 430 for a week now it is always open for feeding time. It will want med to high flow from my experiance as well. I will try to get a photo tonight of mine.
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Get your NO3 down to 5ppm Ca up to 420 and Mg up to 1400
Try to raise the Mg slow 100 ppm a day.
Try to raise the Mg slow 100 ppm a day.
Wow, that's good to know, thank you! If it doesn't start opening up more soon I may move it on down like you did. I will definitely try the feeding trick. I would love to see yours, they are some of my favorite corals. Thanks!
Thanks for the reply! I will try that. I have never dosed my tank before but I have just started dosing brightwell trace elements and am about to start adding brightwell aquatics calcion and magnesion. I also got a new salt, I bought Red Sea coral pro salt and am about to give it a try to see if it helps. I'm a bit of a newbie with corals, but I've had fish for years.. I caught the reefing bug a few months ago so hopefully I will get the hang of it soonGet your NO3 down to 5ppm Ca up to 420 and Mg up to 1400
Try to raise the Mg slow 100 ppm a day.
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Take your time do some more research and you will succeedI caught the reefing bug a few months ago so hopefully I will get the hang of it soon
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There are 4 major coral types. SPS, LPS, Softies, and NPS. Each type has its own requirements, and each coral within each category has its own even more specific needs. The type of corals you choose will be the sole factor behind your final flow rate, style, and your lighting and filtration. Some corals will even need to be fed in various manners. Not knowing what each coral you want needs is like buying a turtle and trying to feed it steak.
SPS
sps coral photo via reef2reef member gws3
Small Polyp Stony corals, or SPS, are the most demanding as far as quality of light and water. These corals consume high levels of Calcium and the Alkalinity will also need constant upkeep. These corals often require more stable water and will need more attention to parameters. Adding Kalkwasser to your topoff water can be a great way to keep these corals growing. Some SPS include Acropora, Montipora, and Hydnophora. These are constructed of a calcium based skeleton with a flesh that coveres them. The pours on the skeleton have tiny polyps that come out and feed from the water column. Each polyp is an individual animal, though connected by a similar flesh and structure.
LPS
Acanthophyllia Deshayesiana (meat coral) image via reef2reef member Fishinfool
Large Polyp Stony corals are less demanding. They do well in medium to lower lighting and medium flow. These also have a calcified skeleton, but the polyps are much larger. Chalice coral, Brain corals, Duncan corals, Candy Canes, and Acans are just a few. These are more hands on. You can actually feed the mouths of each polyp and it will eat like a venus fly trap, some large enough to eat entire krill in one gulp! These also require a source of calcium. The water quality can be a little less attended, but they will thrive in clean, stable water.
Softies
toadstool leather (center) image via reef2reef member donfishy
These are generally the easiest corals. Kenya tree, mushrooms, Zoas, Xenia, Star polyps. Anything that does not have a skeleton falls in this category. They can live in low light and low flow for the most part. Some softies can live in any level of lighting, and some grow Too fast. These are the easiest to grow, but so are dandelions. Weeds are not only in your yard. Some corals can take off in your tank to the point of insanity. Make sure you research ways to maintain plague corals or you could have your own unintentional Pulsing Xenia farm.
NPS
sun coral image via reef2reef member Dixie_reefer
Non-Photosynthetic corals are the hardest to keep. They require constant food and superb water quality. They are best kept for the professional as they require very unique methods of upkeep. These corals are known to rapidly deteriorate, if you do attempt one you must research its needs and be ready to remove it if it starts to rot. Sun coral, Gorgonians, and Sponges are a few examples of NPS corals.
After quarantine you will be ready to start adding the corals to your tank. For the first week or two they will be loose, and need a close watch. Critters can knock them over or even take them. Every coral you get is best started on the sand bed and worked towards the spot you want them in over the course of a couple weeks to acclimate them to the lighting and flow. When you have them in the spot they shall reside you can use Super Glue Gel or Reef Putty to bond the corals to the rock. Take the coral out of the water and put a large glob of glue on the rock or plug it is attached to and stick it in place under water. In a few minutes the glue will be completely dry. By the time the superglue comes apart the coral will have already grown onto the rock. There are many other ways to bond corals so check around for how others have done theirs if you have something that you are having trouble attaching to something.
Plants:
You may have a refugium or want a decorative algae in your display tank. There are a ton of cool plants out there that can be beneficial to your system. Some are best in the confinement of your sump where they cannot take root in your tank while others are fairly maintainable. Mangroves are not a realistic form of filtration but can make a great habitat and can look quite snazzy if you Bonsai it. You could choose to do an all plant aquarium, but that is another monster in itself.
General Advice:
Always research twice and buy once. Quarantine everything. Acclimate, don’t dump. No matter what they tell you at the store, don’t buy anything without checking it out first. Look up other people’s experiences with these particular life forms. What did they mix theirs with? How large of a tang did they have in their 75 gallon? The fish trade has been around for quite a while, it is very likely someone has had the same taste as you and most often the question you have has been answered numerous times. There is no sure thing with this hobby and there is always the chance that a peppermint shrimp can live in peace with a Panther Grouper, it is just highly unlikely. Be wise, go with the majority vote. Don’t try anything that has risk until you are well experienced with this hobby. You will have much more fun succeeding with compatible fish than trying to catch or save incompatible ones. The same goes with corals and inverts.
Good luck and be patient.
SPS
sps coral photo via reef2reef member gws3
Small Polyp Stony corals, or SPS, are the most demanding as far as quality of light and water. These corals consume high levels of Calcium and the Alkalinity will also need constant upkeep. These corals often require more stable water and will need more attention to parameters. Adding Kalkwasser to your topoff water can be a great way to keep these corals growing. Some SPS include Acropora, Montipora, and Hydnophora. These are constructed of a calcium based skeleton with a flesh that coveres them. The pours on the skeleton have tiny polyps that come out and feed from the water column. Each polyp is an individual animal, though connected by a similar flesh and structure.
LPS
Acanthophyllia Deshayesiana (meat coral) image via reef2reef member Fishinfool
Large Polyp Stony corals are less demanding. They do well in medium to lower lighting and medium flow. These also have a calcified skeleton, but the polyps are much larger. Chalice coral, Brain corals, Duncan corals, Candy Canes, and Acans are just a few. These are more hands on. You can actually feed the mouths of each polyp and it will eat like a venus fly trap, some large enough to eat entire krill in one gulp! These also require a source of calcium. The water quality can be a little less attended, but they will thrive in clean, stable water.
Softies
toadstool leather (center) image via reef2reef member donfishy
These are generally the easiest corals. Kenya tree, mushrooms, Zoas, Xenia, Star polyps. Anything that does not have a skeleton falls in this category. They can live in low light and low flow for the most part. Some softies can live in any level of lighting, and some grow Too fast. These are the easiest to grow, but so are dandelions. Weeds are not only in your yard. Some corals can take off in your tank to the point of insanity. Make sure you research ways to maintain plague corals or you could have your own unintentional Pulsing Xenia farm.
NPS
sun coral image via reef2reef member Dixie_reefer
Non-Photosynthetic corals are the hardest to keep. They require constant food and superb water quality. They are best kept for the professional as they require very unique methods of upkeep. These corals are known to rapidly deteriorate, if you do attempt one you must research its needs and be ready to remove it if it starts to rot. Sun coral, Gorgonians, and Sponges are a few examples of NPS corals.
After quarantine you will be ready to start adding the corals to your tank. For the first week or two they will be loose, and need a close watch. Critters can knock them over or even take them. Every coral you get is best started on the sand bed and worked towards the spot you want them in over the course of a couple weeks to acclimate them to the lighting and flow. When you have them in the spot they shall reside you can use Super Glue Gel or Reef Putty to bond the corals to the rock. Take the coral out of the water and put a large glob of glue on the rock or plug it is attached to and stick it in place under water. In a few minutes the glue will be completely dry. By the time the superglue comes apart the coral will have already grown onto the rock. There are many other ways to bond corals so check around for how others have done theirs if you have something that you are having trouble attaching to something.
Plants:
You may have a refugium or want a decorative algae in your display tank. There are a ton of cool plants out there that can be beneficial to your system. Some are best in the confinement of your sump where they cannot take root in your tank while others are fairly maintainable. Mangroves are not a realistic form of filtration but can make a great habitat and can look quite snazzy if you Bonsai it. You could choose to do an all plant aquarium, but that is another monster in itself.
General Advice:
Always research twice and buy once. Quarantine everything. Acclimate, don’t dump. No matter what they tell you at the store, don’t buy anything without checking it out first. Look up other people’s experiences with these particular life forms. What did they mix theirs with? How large of a tang did they have in their 75 gallon? The fish trade has been around for quite a while, it is very likely someone has had the same taste as you and most often the question you have has been answered numerous times. There is no sure thing with this hobby and there is always the chance that a peppermint shrimp can live in peace with a Panther Grouper, it is just highly unlikely. Be wise, go with the majority vote. Don’t try anything that has risk until you are well experienced with this hobby. You will have much more fun succeeding with compatible fish than trying to catch or save incompatible ones. The same goes with corals and inverts.
Good luck and be patient.
jamie callard
Active Member
- Joined
- Feb 14, 2016
- Messages
- 379
- Reaction score
- 170
Starting to open up
There are 4 major coral types. SPS, LPS, Softies, and NPS. Each type has its own requirements, and each coral within each category has its own even more specific needs. The type of corals you choose will be the sole factor behind your final flow rate, style, and your lighting and filtration. Some corals will even need to be fed in various manners. Not knowing what each coral you want needs is like buying a turtle and trying to feed it steak.
SPS
sps coral photo via reef2reef member gws3
Small Polyp Stony corals, or SPS, are the most demanding as far as quality of light and water. These corals consume high levels of Calcium and the Alkalinity will also need constant upkeep. These corals often require more stable water and will need more attention to parameters. Adding Kalkwasser to your topoff water can be a great way to keep these corals growing. Some SPS include Acropora, Montipora, and Hydnophora. These are constructed of a calcium based skeleton with a flesh that coveres them. The pours on the skeleton have tiny polyps that come out and feed from the water column. Each polyp is an individual animal, though connected by a similar flesh and structure.
LPS
Acanthophyllia Deshayesiana (meat coral) image via reef2reef member Fishinfool
Large Polyp Stony corals are less demanding. They do well in medium to lower lighting and medium flow. These also have a calcified skeleton, but the polyps are much larger. Chalice coral, Brain corals, Duncan corals, Candy Canes, and Acans are just a few. These are more hands on. You can actually feed the mouths of each polyp and it will eat like a venus fly trap, some large enough to eat entire krill in one gulp! These also require a source of calcium. The water quality can be a little less attended, but they will thrive in clean, stable water.
Softies
toadstool leather (center) image via reef2reef member donfishy
These are generally the easiest corals. Kenya tree, mushrooms, Zoas, Xenia, Star polyps. Anything that does not have a skeleton falls in this category. They can live in low light and low flow for the most part. Some softies can live in any level of lighting, and some grow Too fast. These are the easiest to grow, but so are dandelions. Weeds are not only in your yard. Some corals can take off in your tank to the point of insanity. Make sure you research ways to maintain plague corals or you could have your own unintentional Pulsing Xenia farm.
NPS
sun coral image via reef2reef member Dixie_reefer
Non-Photosynthetic corals are the hardest to keep. They require constant food and superb water quality. They are best kept for the professional as they require very unique methods of upkeep. These corals are known to rapidly deteriorate, if you do attempt one you must research its needs and be ready to remove it if it starts to rot. Sun coral, Gorgonians, and Sponges are a few examples of NPS corals.
After quarantine you will be ready to start adding the corals to your tank. For the first week or two they will be loose, and need a close watch. Critters can knock them over or even take them. Every coral you get is best started on the sand bed and worked towards the spot you want them in over the course of a couple weeks to acclimate them to the lighting and flow. When you have them in the spot they shall reside you can use Super Glue Gel or Reef Putty to bond the corals to the rock. Take the coral out of the water and put a large glob of glue on the rock or plug it is attached to and stick it in place under water. In a few minutes the glue will be completely dry. By the time the superglue comes apart the coral will have already grown onto the rock. There are many other ways to bond corals so check around for how others have done theirs if you have something that you are having trouble attaching to something.
Plants:
You may have a refugium or want a decorative algae in your display tank. There are a ton of cool plants out there that can be beneficial to your system. Some are best in the confinement of your sump where they cannot take root in your tank while others are fairly maintainable. Mangroves are not a realistic form of filtration but can make a great habitat and can look quite snazzy if you Bonsai it. You could choose to do an all plant aquarium, but that is another monster in itself.
General Advice:
Always research twice and buy once. Quarantine everything. Acclimate, don’t dump. No matter what they tell you at the store, don’t buy anything without checking it out first. Look up other people’s experiences with these particular life forms. What did they mix theirs with? How large of a tang did they have in their 75 gallon? The fish trade has been around for quite a while, it is very likely someone has had the same taste as you and most often the question you have has been answered numerous times. There is no sure thing with this hobby and there is always the chance that a peppermint shrimp can live in peace with a Panther Grouper, it is just highly unlikely. Be wise, go with the majority vote. Don’t try anything that has risk until you are well experienced with this hobby. You will have much more fun succeeding with compatible fish than trying to catch or save incompatible ones. The same goes with corals and inverts.
Good luck and be patient.
Wow, thank you so much for all the advice!! I believe my trouble right now in the tank may be chemical warfare of some type. I have a umbrella leather that sheds way more than normal... Like once a week. I believe it is upsetting my other corals. Since my hammer died, I lost a torch that I have had for a very long time and my pink stylophora is bleaching. I have a "rescue" BTA in my tank as well. Although, I have had it for a long time now. It was in bad conditions at a lfs of mine and I have taken it in to try to save it. I have recently been hearing that anemones can put toxins in the water if they are stressed as well... Do you think this could be the problem? My levels are pretty spot on. I don't understand what could be going on. In my tank the corals that I have are:
Elegance coral
Sun coral
Flowerpot coral
Pink stylophora
Toadstool
Pulsing Xenia
Kenya tree
Cabbage leather
Brain coral
Candy cane
Mushrooms
Torch
Plate
Fox coral
Spagetti leather
Palys
ou12004
Active Member
I don't have a leather but I have heard they can do some serious damage with chemical warfare. Carbon will help if that is what is doing it.
I just lost half of my SPS colonies because of a faulty temp sensor so if you are not double checking temp you might want to if all your other parameters are in line.
I just lost half of my SPS colonies because of a faulty temp sensor so if you are not double checking temp you might want to if all your other parameters are in line.
Starting to open up
This is how mine looks right now, I can see the yellow in it.. However, the tentacles still haven't opened up. They just barely will when I feed them reef roids. I just got a bottle of polyp booster from poly lab that is supposed to really help them open up for feeding. I hope it works! Lol
joshkirkland83
Valuable Member
Your alk is too high for lps, IME.
jamie callard
Active Member
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3or 4 days now it opens twoce a day when i feed and it ia wide open. Love the color it gives me.
I'm thinking of rehoming mine due to problems... I would just hate to get rid of it if it is not the problem. I have been running carbon, but it doesn't seem to be helping. I may start using a tad more. And thanks, I will get another thermometer just to be on the safe side.. Good idea!
