Any Unsatisfied Orphek Users?

[maxwell]

Hi
I have had repeated problems with one of my units without going into details as i love the lights , i have just updated the full led pcb's and lenes to the v3 version and later on i will update the control boards to either the v3 or v3+ versions. I have difficulties getting the units to match when programming but with repeated factory setting and alterations to the program that all channel times match on the ramp period its been ok for the last couple days.My tank has good colour and growth so i can live with any glitches .Also bear in mind there is a known issues on custom settings on the ramp up periods basically it needs to be 3hr max before changes are made ie 9.00 to 12.00 OK if you start say 6.00am to 12.00 (6hr) i had problems as the program cannot deal with it and has a mind of its own.lol.
Bill

 

[Thle009]

I would expect that, I did a huge amount of reading before purchase, especially looking at the spectrums emited and spectral PUR needs of corals, the Orphek was very close to the output of a T5 ATI unit with is considered one of the best for T5, where you see many nice SPS tanks my previous lights on the old system were Arcadia OT2 LED this was a 6 tube T5 Hybid at the time the spectrums made by LEDs were very limited 450 nm and white said to be more than 12K My lamps ramp up and down over a 2 hour period, with 8 hours at 100% on all channels, there are no issues with hot spots

Do you have any tank or coral pictures?

 

[maxwell]

Here's mine

 

[Thle009]

Thank you sir. If you don't mind, how high above the water do you hang your lights? I just fight off some cyano slime and a bit nervous on pushing the UV channel to 100%. I'm hoping to get a hang of my macro photo skill. Then I can post some nice pictures

 

[maxwell]

Hi
I have only had these running a few days they are 8'' above they appear a bit too much blue ,the same setting on my previous 2.1b was a bit reddish so i am still playing with settings.If you have cyano i would back off ch4 red channel i dont thing UV will be a problem only make the corals pop.Love to see your macro shots of some nice sps corals
Bill

 

[Gary Wilkinson]

Do you have any tank or coral pictures?

 

[revhtree Verified Admin]

Here's mine

Gorgeous reefs! If y'all don't have tank threads here then DO IT!!

 

[Thle009]

Great looking tank. Are you running 3 set of lights?

 

[Gary Wilkinson]

Great looking tank. Are you running 3 set of lights?

Yes the area is 55" x39" and 31" tall

 

[N4sty T4te]

I know this as on old thread, I've got two v1's that I can't get past 40% before corals start to bleach out.

Low nutrients, Alk at 7.5-8, units are 16" above the tank.

Anyone have any thoughts?

 

[maxwell]

Hi
I don't know whats going on with your lights it can only be the spectrum as I run mine at 100% approx. 9-10inches above the tank and they are the v2.1b which I have uprated the led panels to the 5w led version of V3 .I suspect you have other issues to consider.

 

[Gary Wilkinson]

I know this as on old thread, I've got two v1's that I can't get past 40% before corals start to bleach out.

Low nutrients, Alk at 7.5-8, units are 16" above the tank.

Anyone have any thoughts?

I use V2.1b at 100% for 8 hours all channels with a 2 hour ramp up and down, they are 6" above the water line, my aquarium is 31" deep, these are stronger lights than the V1 so doubt it's the lights alone are an issue
I would consider lowering Alk to 7 if your kits not reading 100% accurate this could create burnt tips ( you said bleaching )
Next look at Iodine, this is utilised by corals especially in very strong lighting
Next possibility is what Lens are on the units the wide angle lens is for tanks up to 40" deep there is a narrow angle for deeper tanks, this could create hot spots on a shallow tank if the wrong lens is used, I know of a user who removed the lenses and also runs 100%
Next look at ICP testing, in case of metals building up

 

[N4sty T4te]

I use V2.1b at 100% for 8 hours all channels with a 2 hour ramp up and down, they are 6" above the water line, my aquarium is 31" deep, these are stronger lights than the V1 so doubt it's the lights alone are an issue
I would consider lowering Alk to 7 if your kits not reading 100% accurate this could create burnt tips ( you said bleaching )
Next look at Iodine, this is utilised by corals especially in very strong lighting
Next possibility is what Lens are on the units the wide angle lens is for tanks up to 40" deep there is a narrow angle for deeper tanks, this could create hot spots on a shallow tank if the wrong lens is used, I know of a user who removed the lenses and also runs 100%
Next look at ICP testing, in case of metals building up

It's not a burnt tip situation, I have two different tests to validate Alk. Lowering offered no real improvement. I'm not sure what the deal is, but to me it seems to be bleaching from the intensity of the light itself. It's only the top half of the tank effected. Everything else seems to maintain color properly. Any other thoughts?

Does anyone know how you can tell the difference between the deep water lenses and the standard? That's honestly the only thing I can come up with at this point....

 

[Orphek Verified Sponsor]

Hi , please stop dossing for at last 10 days
Do also a water change .

And incris the light to 100% your coral will be fine.

Please send photos of the tank and the corals also of the lens .
The spectrum of the v1 and v3 almost the same
Ch1 all white in the v3 extra 4 cyan reset the same .the dual chip not make the light stronger same watt as v3. V3 plus and v4 are stronger but not much . Ch 2 blue 460nm same as v3 Small change in channel 3 at the uv LEDs also minimal
C4 also almost the same

 

[N4sty T4te]

Hi , please stop dossing for at last 10 days
Do also a water change .

And incris the light to 100% your coral will be fine.

Please send photos of the tank and the corals also of the lens .
The spectrum of the v1 and v3 almost the same
Ch1 all white in the v3 extra 4 cyan reset the same .the dual chip not make the light stronger same watt as v3. V3 plus and v4 are stronger but not much . Ch 2 blue 460nm same as v3 Small change in channel 3 at the uv LEDs also minimal

Yeah... I'm definitely not going to do that. As I've already explained... I currently can't push past 45% without the corals showing signs of bleaching. I pushed it to 70% (going towards your recommend 100% slowly over time) when I first stocked the tank and it did not go well. With that being said If Orphek wants to cover any livestock loss incurred by taking it to 100% I guess I can try it again...?

Here is a picture of the lens, thanks for checking it out and letting me know If I have the deep water one on here so I can rule out that out:

 

[Orphek Verified Sponsor]

Hi , your light is with wide lens ,
By stop dosing and do big water change you calibret the water parameters.
Somthing worng in your aquarium and together with strong lights it can effect your corals .
You can not know what worng always with teset kit .
So after the water change
you can up the light to 100% and your coral will do fin !.

You can do it slowly every day 10-20%
After the water change Check the kH

And 10 days after without dosing check again

If the kH drop your coral doing fin !
As much light will drop more .
Till you get to the point your coral look good check and keep the dKh tô this level other will follow .


Also please send some good photos of how thy look now you can dim the blue channel to zero to get better pictures.

 

[N4sty T4te]

Hi , your light is with wide lens ,
By stop dosing and do big water change you calibret the water parameters.
Somthing worng in your aquarium and together with strong lights it can effect your corals .
You can not know what worng always with teset kit .
So after the water change
you can up the light to 100% and your coral will do fin !.

You can do it slowly every day 10-20%
After the water change Check the kH

And 10 days after without dosing check again

If the kH drop your coral doing fin !
As much light will drop more .
Till you get to the point your coral look good check and keep the dKh tô this level other will follow .


Also please send some good photos of how thy look now you can dim the blue channel to zero to get better pictures.

I do a 10% water change once a week.

My tank is balanced and steady at:
Alk - 7.5
PH - 8.1 - 8.2
Sal - 35ppm
Mag - 1350
Temp - 79
No3 - 0.5
Po4 - Unregisterable

I have no desire to throw 3 months of balancing the tank out to the wind. I don't know how else to reiterate that I can't turn the lights up to 100% without the corals bleaching. A water change isn't going to fix that.
I'm sorry, I don't mean to be rude at all, but I think this is poor advice given my particular situation. I'm really more interested in hearing from other people that use the lights to be completely honest with you, I sort of feel like I'm in an infomercial right now.

Obviously you guys make some good lighting gear. I'm not trying to say anything to the effect of the lights not being good. I'm just trying to determine why I can't crank mine up like others for better growth while maintaining color.

Are any of the rest of you running LNS systems that are at 100%?

 

[Oldreefer44]

Have V3's and run them at 100% for about 8 hrs a day. Mine are about 10 inches from the top of the tank. I have some corals as high as 6 inches from the water line with no bleaching. Also my water parameters are very similar to yours with PO4 higher at .03. I would try to raise your PO4 a little a they do need some. Agree with others that it is most likely something else.

 

[grevedin]

I would not go anywhere near them.

I bought 4 Atlantik V4 lights, two were faulty, and after sales support is non-existent unless you want to repair things yourself, and despite the lights still being under warranty.

Yes the owner and support staff are very responsive on email, but it took several hours of back and forth email correspondence to diagnose the problems (having to open the lights and run several tests on various components myself).

I was then told the only way to repair them was for them to send me the replacement components and do it myself (including soldering). I went ahead with this only to have one of the lights fail again only a few weeks later...not what you expect when spending $3,400 on a “high end” product.

There is no replacement or refund policy so if a light is faulty you are stuck with it and need to repair it yourself. If you are a DIY person and have a lot of time on your hands then it may be fine.

 

[maxwell]

I have 3 Atlantics , 2 reef bars and another on order a V2 blue plus when available , I have mega growth and good colour for me they are the best lighting out there but like every thing else in the hobby you will have issues that need sorting .