Apex EB832 or EB8?

jsbzcmcdaniel

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Guys -

I have a new APEX Neptune and I am out of outlets on the EB832. Do I need another EB832 or can I use a EB8 with it? If it is backward compatible would it be better to get the EB832? The EB832 is roughly $100 more but I don't want to buy a EB8 and wish I would have bought the EB832 because of something.

Thanks!
 
The EB8 offers much less than the EB832 - the EB8 doesn't have the per-plug power monitoring (so you can't set up alerts on a drop in power, for example) and it doesn't have the extra ports (three 1-link and two 24vdc - thus the "832"). If you don't need/use the individual power monitoring and are sure you would never need the extra ports, then you could get by with an EB8. Note that a 1-link module (which has the same 3/2 port configuration) is ~$150, so getting the EB832 can actually save you money if/when you need those ports (which can be used for things like PMUP, solenoids, DOS, etc.).

I expanded my system with an extra EB832 as well as an EB8. The EB8 is used in my mixing station - where I don't have any critical equipment running and already had a 1-link module from when I used a standard power strip.
 
The new apex is absolutely backwards compatible with all of the aquabus modules. EB832 does have some nice additional features, but they are hardly essential unless you need the auxiliary outlets. I run two EB832 and three EB8 on mine and I almost never find myself saying 'shoot I wish this EB8 was an EB832' …….
 
The new apex is absolutely backwards compatible with all of the aquabus modules. EB832 does have some nice additional features, but they are hardly essential unless you need the auxiliary outlets. I run two EB832 and three EB8 on mine and I almost never find myself saying 'shoot I wish this EB8 was an EB832' …….

I have an eb 832, an eb8 and a eb4 that I use for my mixing station (it has 4 mechanical relays so better for the BRS dosers I use)

I have things that need power monitoring on the Eb832 and the rest is on the eb8

I also have a ADJ 8 outlet bar to power things like my Orphek gateway, ecotech reeflink, my apex power bars, etc that don’t need controlled by the apex
 
I would recommend the EB4 over the EB8. The EB8 has several TRIAC switches which can be problematic in some situations, and I'd just prefer not to have to think about whether I should plug a particular device into a particular outlet. The EB832 and EB4 are all mechanical relays. The EB4 also has the advantage of having one outlet that is higher rated than any single outlet on an EB8 or EB832, at 12 amps.
 
I would recommend the EB4 over the EB8. The EB8 has several TRIAC switches which can be problematic in some situations, and I'd just prefer not to have to think about whether I should plug a particular device into a particular outlet. The EB832 and EB4 are all mechanical relays. The EB4 also has the advantage of having one outlet that is higher rated than any single outlet on an EB8 or EB832, at 12 amps.

I like my eb4, I have it mounted remotely with my water station and it does a great job.

I do find it funny that the eb832 is laid out like it has 6 triacs and 2 relays (three outlets in each row are grouped together). They must have realized that the triacs were causing people more issues than the soft start was removing and changed it after the case was designed
 
The eb8 only has 2 outlets that they recommend heaters on. The eb832 can handle heaters on any outlets. It also allows monitoring (and alarms) based on amperage and wattage being USED by individual outlets. What this can do is help you know when a heater fails. You essentially tell the apex to let you know if the heater outlet turns on and the heater is drawing amperage or wattage that's out of its normal range. In my case, I have 4 heaters. I noticed temps dropping recently, and it was much easier to diagnose which heater was the problem because I could go back and see what amperage it was using. One particular heater outlet was turning on with the others, but had no amperage drawn.....meaning the heater wasn't doing anything at all.
 
Any comments on reliability? Reviews at BRS are not so good for the 832.
 
Bump, would like to know if these recommendations have changed now that people have had their EB832’s for longer than the reported 12-18 month wear out period of the 12V switch. It looks like the EB8 is discontinued so I guess the question is now EB4 vs EB832.
 
I like my eb4, I have it mounted remotely with my water station and it does a great job.

I do find it funny that the eb832 is laid out like it has 6 triacs and 2 relays (three outlets in each row are grouped together). They must have realized that the triacs were causing people more issues than the soft start was removing and changed it after the case was designed
Old thread I know...
You mentioned you have your EB4 mounted remotely, is it still controlled by the APEX?
I may be misinterpreting here, is it still physically connected to the APEX?
 
Bump, would like to know if these recommendations have changed now that people have had their EB832’s for longer than the reported 12-18 month wear out period of the 12V switch. It looks like the EB8 is discontinued so I guess the question is now EB4 vs EB832.
No experience with the EB8 or EB4, but...
I had an EB832 fail after a power outage (power surge?). I have read it can be fixed DIY, but my skills are lacking so it sits on a shelf collecting dust until further notice.
I have since replaced the EB832, but am contemplating adding an EB8 as there is a used one available locally.
 
Old thread I know...
You mentioned you have your EB4 mounted remotely, is it still controlled by the APEX?
I may be misinterpreting here, is it still physically connected to the APEX?
According to their account info they haven’t been online in well over a year so I doubt they will reply, but to control any of the Neptune energy bars it would have to be connected with a aquabus cable as far as I know.
I am considering adding an energy bar to my water change station on the other side of the house, which will require a long run of a aquabus cable, or the diy version with a Ethernet cable and usb connectors on the ends.
 
Old thread I know...
You mentioned you have your EB4 mounted remotely, is it still controlled by the APEX?
I may be misinterpreting here, is it still physically connected to the APEX?
I know it wasn’t me you’re responding to, but when mentioned remotely, I’d say long cable. I have a 100’ cable to my “remote” eb4 at my mixing station, which is in the garage
 
I know it wasn’t me you’re responding to, but when mentioned remotely, I’d say long cable. I have a 100’ cable to my “remote” eb4 at my mixing station, which is in the garage
If you don’t mind me asking did you buy an exceptionally long aquabus cable (probably from usbfirewire.com) or did you just use a Ethernet cable and usb ends.
I have been contemplating doing the same thing with mine but it really bugs me to pay $75 for a cable.
 
If you don’t mind me asking did you buy an exceptionally long aquabus cable (probably from usbfirewire.com) or did you just use a Ethernet cable and usb ends.
I have been contemplating doing the same thing with mine but it really bugs me to pay $75 for a cable.
I made my own, cheapo Ethernet cable, and some cheapo usb ends, all from Amazon.

This isn’t my thread, but here’s a good one for info…

 
Dang. My display is on the main floor and my sump is in the basement crawlspace. I didn't have the foresight to run ethernet to my display. I don't think I ran any ethernet near the display that I can hijack.
I guess my display equipment will continue to run unsupervised lol.
 
Dang. My display is on the main floor and my sump is in the basement crawlspace. I didn't have the foresight to run ethernet to my display. I don't think I ran any ethernet near the display that I can hijack.
I guess my display equipment will continue to run unsupervised lol.
Can you use a fish tape(coincidence I know), and fish an Ethernet cable along your plumbing?
 
FWIW, I bought an EB8 in order to use the Apex to control my heaters with 0.1 deg F difference between on and off. Did this on the triac because I was concerned that the frequent on/off would be a problem for a mechanical relay and the triacs' "problem" is they sometimes don't switch off if the current is low, which isn't a problem for a heater.
 
FWIW, I bought an EB8 in order to use the Apex to control my heaters with 0.1 deg F difference between on and off. Did this on the triac because I was concerned that the frequent on/off would be a problem for a mechanical relay and the triacs' "problem" is they sometimes don't switch off if the current is low, which isn't a problem for a heater.
I'm not familiar with the EB technicals... what is the triac?
The eb8 only has 2 outlets that they recommend heaters on. The eb832 can handle heaters on any outlets. It also allows monitoring (and alarms) based on amperage and wattage being USED by individual outlets. What this can do is help you know when a heater fails. You essentially tell the apex to let you know if the heater outlet turns on and the heater is drawing amperage or wattage that's out of its normal range. In my case, I have 4 heaters. I noticed temps dropping recently, and it was much easier to diagnose which heater was the problem because I could go back and see what amperage it was using. One particular heater outlet was turning on with the others, but had no amperage drawn.....meaning the heater wasn't doing anything at all.
More confused now.
One scenario is EB8 is better for heaters and one scenario EB832 is better...
Which is it?!?!

I'm just trying to learn, I mean no offence.
 

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