Apex EB832 or EB8?

[keithIHS]

LOL, depends on what's important to you. If you want to switch it on and off LOTS of times without worrying about reliability, then EB8 (triac outlet). If you want to be able to monitor power/current, always a good idea with heaters, then EB832. Maybe someone else knows another consideration?
Neptune says that the EB832 can handle heaters on any outlet, but it won't be as reliable as the triacs in an EB8.

 

[Tub Life]

LOL, depends on what's important to you. If you want to switch it on and off LOTS of times without worrying about reliability, then EB8 (triac outlet). If you want to be able to monitor power/current, always a good idea with heaters, then EB832. Maybe someone else knows another consideration?
Neptune says that the EB832 can handle heaters on any outlet, but it won't be as reliable as the triacs in an EB8.

Long-term reliability is important, and switching on/off LOTS is what my heaters would be doing.
But someone also mentioned Neptune says only 2 outlets on the EB8 are good for heaters?
So, still clear as mud to me.
Its appearing to be one of those, this, that or the other scenarios. There is no definitive answer.

 

[keithIHS]

Hmm, the manual (https://media.cdn.bulkreefsupply.com/media/wysiwyg/PDFs/Neptune EnergyBar8_manual.pdf) says "Outlets 1-3 and 5-7 are switched with silent solid state devices and can power items up to 5 amps each". These are the triac switches and are limited to about 500W. I'm using 2x 300W heaters, 1 per outlet. Not sure why they would say that only two are suitable for heaters except perhaps they're worried about larger heaters. The manual also says, "Some extremely small loads (Aqualifter pumps, solenoid, LED moon lights) may not turn off when controlled by the solid state outlets". Again, heaters below 500W wouldn't have this problem.

 

[Tub Life]

Hmm, the manual (https://media.cdn.bulkreefsupply.com/media/wysiwyg/PDFs/Neptune EnergyBar8_manual.pdf) says "Outlets 1-3 and 5-7 are switched with silent solid state devices and can power items up to 5 amps each". These are the triac switches and are limited to about 500W. I'm using 2x 300W heaters, 1 per outlet. Not sure why they would say that only two are suitable for heaters except perhaps they're worried about larger heaters. The manual also says, "Some extremely small loads (Aqualifter pumps, solenoid, LED moon lights) may not turn off when controlled by the solid state outlets". Again, heaters below 500W wouldn't have this problem.

Good to know.
I was just thinking of picking up a second 500 watter.
Moving forward I'll stick with 400s to be safe.

 

[temphermitcrab]

I have an Apex with 2 x EB832's and I use a Heater with a a separate controller attached to one EB832. The controller is relatively cheap compared to the EB832 and now all of the switching happens on the controller. I have a lot less on/offs which I've heard has led to failures. My Apex temp is used as a backup for the Heater's controller. I can replace the controller for a lot less than the EB832 and it's cheap enough to have an extra as backup. Making things easier and cheaper means I'm more likely to have the backups and do annual replacements.

 

[keithIHS]

I have an Apex with 2 x EB832's and I use a Heater with a a separate controller attached to one EB832. The controller is relatively cheap compared to the EB832 and now all of the switching happens on the controller. I have a lot less on/offs which I've heard has led to failures. My Apex temp is used as a backup for the Heater's controller. I can replace the controller for a lot less than the EB832 and it's cheap enough to have an extra as backup. Making things easier and cheaper means I'm more likely to have the backups and do annual replacements.

I did it purely so I could reduce temperature swing of an Inkbird controller. I originally used the heater controller (Finnex with separate controller). The controller wasn't accurate; that is, you set it to 78, but the tank would be 81. I also worried about reliability and lack of a backup so I bought an Inkbird but didn't care for the 1-1.5 degree temperature swing I was getting. It was worse in the summer because cooling wouldn't switch on until it was 2 degrees high and I'm only using fans and they're not very effective so the temperature ends up rising 4 degrees or so. I needed more outlets anyway, so I bought the EB8 so I could use the triac solid state switches for 0.1 deg temperature control. This reduced my summer temperature rise to 2 degrees because the fans switch on sooner. I didn't mind the low-current problem because I have 2 EB832s and can just put only high current devices on the EB8 (or use the 2 relay outlets on the EB8). Also, monitoring current draw isn't something I've gotten into. I suspect my concern over the inkbird temperature swings was overblown, but I don't know for sure. Others have expressed concern about letting the Apex control temperature, preferring an independent controller. I think this is a valid concern. While the triac switch is reliable, the Apex system may not be as reliable as, say, a separate Inkbird controller.