API Saltwater Test kit

Mity Sergio

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Hello everyone!
I have been using the salt water test kit by API for three weeks now and I’ve been seeing the same readings for both ammonia and nitrite nothing has changed throughout the last three weeks I’ve been using live bacteria to help cycle my tank but I keep getting the same readings and Friday will be my 4th week of my cycle. If anyone could help me or recommend what I should do next I would appreciate it!
 
Hello everyone!
I have been using the salt water test kit by API for three weeks now and I’ve been seeing the same readings for both ammonia and nitrite nothing has changed throughout the last three weeks I’ve been using live bacteria to help cycle my tank but I keep getting the same readings and Friday will be my 4th week of my cycle. If anyone could help me or recommend what I should do next I would appreciate it!
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I just tested mixed saltwater I bought from my local fish store and that is testing at 0ppm for ammonia so could this really be my ammonia this late into the cycle? I have no fish or corals added yet and I’ve been rarely ghost feeding dude to how high the ammonia already is. I’m just super confused on it all
 
Something needs to be in the water to produce this. Is there anything in the water?

Also, do you have another test kit?
 
I just tested mixed saltwater I bought from my local fish store and that is testing at 0ppm for ammonia so could this really be my ammonia this late into the cycle? I have no fish or corals added yet and I’ve been rarely ghost feeding dude to how high the ammonia already is. I’m just super confused on it all
API often produces false readings mainly at zero or close to and is your LFS also using API ?
I suggest taking a water sample to a trusted LFS that does NOT use Api kits and see what readings they come up with and to compre with yours
Zero can be achieved quickly but often if there is no waste or ammonia chloride used, you will see zero readings
 
I currently have had nothing in my tank for the time it’s been cycled but I’m seeing these high numbers without any change. I only currently have the API Saltwater Test kit! I tested my LFS salt water myself and that’s the reading it came up with of 0ppm of ammonia with using my api test kit.
API often produces false readings mainly at zero or close to and is your LFS also using API ?
I suggest taking a water sample to a trusted LFS that does NOT use Api kits and see what readings they come up with and to compre with yours
Zero can be achieved quickly but often if there is no waste or ammonia chloride used, you will see zero readings
 
API often produces false readings mainly at zero or close to and is your LFS also using API ?
I suggest taking a water sample to a trusted LFS that does NOT use Api kits and see what readings they come up with and to compre with yours
Zero can be achieved quickly but often if there is no waste or ammonia chloride used, you will see zero readings
Should I go to a LFS to get my water tested? Or any good test kits to buy? Just not too sure what to do at this point because I feel it shouldn’t be so high at this point
 
Should I go to a LFS to get my water tested? Or any good test kits to buy? Just not too sure what to do at this point because I feel it shouldn’t be so high at this point
Yes to lfs that does not use API kits
Salifert and hanna brand are best kits
 
Sounds good I appreciate it! Is this a normal thing to have such high numbers almost 4 weeks in!?
 
Do you have any nitrate? If so, that's good. Also, I know you don't have any livestock in, but are you dosing any ammonia, like a fishless cycle starter? What kind of live bacteria did you start with?
 
Ammonia seems to be out of range to me, does it look 8 or higher for you as well?

What is the ammonia source in your tank, do you dose ammonia or are you having something rotting in the tank?

Which bacteria are you using?

What is nitrate value are nitrite and nitrate value changing?

Either way I would stop dosing/remove ammonia source and if currently it looks 8 or higher I would do some diluted ammonia test to find out what is the real value.

For example if you add 1/3 tank water and 2/3 freshly mixed saltwater and test that hopefully result gonna be on the chart, then you multiply it with 3 to get the real ammonia value etc

Then go on from there depending on how high the measured ammonia and whether nitrite and nitrate values are changing.
 
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Sounds good I appreciate it! Is this a normal thing to have such high numbers almost 4 weeks in!?
You can. The Bacteria you add is denitrifying and needs waste to lower numbers. You can use an old method with a piece of shrimp which works as well as adding ammonia chloride. During your cycle, your tank will go through some phases: ammonia will rise and fall, then nitrate will rise and fall. Once Ammonia and Nitrite read 0 and Nitrate is less than 20ppm, the cycle is complete and livestock can gradually be introduced. The bacteria population will increase with the new bioload, processing waste and converting it to nitrate rapidly. However, it is important to note that overloading the aquarium with too many fish initially can exceed what the bacteria can handle. This is why it is best to add new fish slowly over the next few months. The bacterial levels will adapt if you don't overload the system with too many mouths to feed.

How long does the cycle generally last? Using the three test kits to measure results daily, you'll likely see the process takes 21 days. There are several ways to cycle a tank, but the easiest one is to run up to the supermarket, go to the seafood deli counter and ask for one large shrimp. If they sell it with the head, even better. One shrimp will cost about $1. Don't worry if they think you're crazy to buy only one; this is not the first time someone will wonder about your motivations with this hobby.
We're all crazy the day we considered getting into the saltwater hobby !!
Leave the shrimp in the tank for 72 hours. That's it. It may even visibly rot, or envelope in some type of mucous. That's what needs to happen. As the shrimp rots, ammonia is released into the water, and bacteria is growing exponentially, spreading into the substrate. The water may even look a little cloudy, which is totally normal and nothing to be concerned about. After three days, remove the shrimp and throw it away. It is no longer needed. Test for ammonia and see what it measures. It should read at the very least 1ppm, or higher.
Test the aquarium daily for Ammonia, Nitrite and Nitrate, logging the information on graph paper or perhaps in a spreadsheet or app. The more data points you collect over time will graph the rise and fall of each of these parameters. No livestock of any kind should be placed in the aquarium as long as you have any measurable traces of ammonia or nitrite because these are toxic to fish and invertebrates. Start planning what you'll want to put in your aquarium while you have a few weeks to wait. There's no reason to rush this process. A good solid foundation will benefit your future reef and handle the bioload adequately.
Also - If you are running the system with a sump that has a refugium or Algae Turf Scrubber section, don't add any light or plants because the system is too clean.
 
Should I go to a LFS to get my water tested? Or any good test kits to buy? Just not too sure what to do at this point because I feel it shouldn’t be so high at this point
Imo there is no need to buy another test kit for now, I would stick with what you have until it lasts.

API ammonia is a bit sensitive below 0.25 but that doesnt matter too much as your value is off the chart anyway.

The bigger issue with API is that the nitrate depends on how hard you shake it, for example I got 20 to 60 values on the same water depending on how hard I did shake it - salifert nitrate is better.

But for now I wouldn't waste money on other test kits, API is fine to monitor the cycle.
 
Do you have any nitrate? If so, that's good. Also, I know you don't have any livestock in, but are you dosing any ammonia, like a fishless cycle starter? What kind of live bacteria did you start with?
I used micro Bacter 7, seachem stability, and the fluval cycle starter
 
You can. The Bacteria you add is denitrifying and needs waste to lower numbers. You can use an old method with a piece of shrimp which works as well as adding ammonia chloride. During your cycle, your tank will go through some phases: ammonia will rise and fall, then nitrate will rise and fall. Once Ammonia and Nitrite read 0 and Nitrate is less than 20ppm, the cycle is complete and livestock can gradually be introduced. The bacteria population will increase with the new bioload, processing waste and converting it to nitrate rapidly. However, it is important to note that overloading the aquarium with too many fish initially can exceed what the bacteria can handle. This is why it is best to add new fish slowly over the next few months. The bacterial levels will adapt if you don't overload the system with too many mouths to feed.

How long does the cycle generally last? Using the three test kits to measure results daily, you'll likely see the process takes 21 days. There are several ways to cycle a tank, but the easiest one is to run up to the supermarket, go to the seafood deli counter and ask for one large shrimp. If they sell it with the head, even better. One shrimp will cost about $1. Don't worry if they think you're crazy to buy only one; this is not the first time someone will wonder about your motivations with this hobby.
We're all crazy the day we considered getting into the saltwater hobby !!
Leave the shrimp in the tank for 72 hours. That's it. It may even visibly rot, or envelope in some type of mucous. That's what needs to happen. As the shrimp rots, ammonia is released into the water, and bacteria is growing exponentially, spreading into the substrate. The water may even look a little cloudy, which is totally normal and nothing to be concerned about. After three days, remove the shrimp and throw it away. It is no longer needed. Test for ammonia and see what it measures. It should read at the very least 1ppm, or higher.
Test the aquarium daily for Ammonia, Nitrite and Nitrate, logging the information on graph paper or perhaps in a spreadsheet or app. The more data points you collect over time will graph the rise and fall of each of these parameters. No livestock of any kind should be placed in the aquarium as long as you have any measurable traces of ammonia or nitrite because these are toxic to fish and invertebrates. Start planning what you'll want to put in your aquarium while you have a few weeks to wait. There's no reason to rush this process. A good solid foundation will benefit your future reef and handle the bioload adequately.
Also - If you are running the system with a sump that has a refugium or Algae Turf Scrubber section, don't add any light or plants because the system is too clean.
I have been testing daily for ammonia but it seems to stick around 4.0 ppm along with the most nitrites I’ve seen reach 0.25 ppm but that’s all the change I’ve seen within 3 weeks which I feel is very off
 
Imo there is no need to buy another test kit for now, I would stick with what you have until it lasts.

API ammonia is a bit sensitive below 0.25 but that doesnt matter too much as your value is off the chart anyway.

The bigger issue with API is that the nitrate depends on how hard you shake it, for example I got 20 to 60 values on the same water depending on how hard I did shake it - salifert nitrate is better.

But for now I wouldn't waste money on other test kits, API is fine to monitor the cycle.
Thank you I appreciate it hopefully within the next few weeks I can see something change just weird how it’s been very steady for this amount of time
 
I used micro Bacter 7, seachem stability, and the fluval cycle starter
If using all three, use one which my choice is bacter 7 and API is very unreliable. . Take my advise in getting a test done at a trusted LFS that does not use API kits to compare with. You NEED to kno if youre getting false readings or not.3
I have a few thousand in livestock and will not trust a $24 master kit to sustain and risk losing anything in my tanks
 
If using all three, use one which my choice is bacter 7
I've used all of bacter 7 along with the fluval cycle. Still have about half the bottle of seachem stability left. Should I stop adding all of this bacteria? I figured it would help break down the ammonia but I've seen no changes yet.
 
I've used all of bacter 7 along with the fluval cycle. Still have about half the bottle of seachem stability left. Should I stop adding all of this bacteria? I figured it would help break down the ammonia but I've seen no changes yet.
I've done this over the course of the 3 weeks
 

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