API Saltwater Test kit

[vetteguy53081]

The Fish Stores results were very similar to mine they tested .50 ppm Ammonia 1.0 ppm Nitrites 40 ppm Nitrates

Don’t worry about nitrites but do you what test kit they used?
Additionally, what method of filtration are you using? I forget what it was.

 

[Mity Sergio]

Don’t worry about nitrites but do you what test kit they used?
Additionally, what method of filtration are you using? I forget what it was.

So I used to have Carbon, Resin, Ceramics, and filter floss but I have since took everything out besides the filter floss and the ceramics just till the cycle is complete And I’m not too sure what test kit I did ask if it was a API test kit but they said it was not and took my sample to the back of the store

 

[reef_1]

Values looking much better.

The only thing I would buy now is a cheap seachem ammonia badge so you can comfortably monitor ammonia spikes when you add fish, start feeding etc

 

[Mity Sergio]

Values looking much better.

The only thing I would buy now is a cheap seachem ammonia badge so you can comfortably monitor ammonia spikes when you add fish, start feeding etc

One step ahead of yah! They are kinda hard to read though!

 

[reef_1]

Looks like around 0.03-0.04. I read them with my phone flash in torch mode straight from the front.

 

[Mity Sergio]

Looks like around 0.03-0.04. I read them with my phone flash in torch mode straight from the front.

Yes it’s definitely better like that! Do they really last for a year!?

 

[Garf]

Yes it’s definitely better like that! Do they really last for a year!?

I’ve had one in a quarantine, then a copepod culture, now in a new tank for the wife, seems to work ok. It’s been in use since Christmas.

 

[vetteguy53081]

Badge works also fir freshwater and very undependable as api kits
I will not rely on a $7 badge to sustain hundreds of dollars in livestock
A ph strip has to be removed in a minute- how would a badge remaining in water be effective?

 

[Garf]

Badge works also fir freshwater and very undependable as api kits
I will not rely on a $7 badge to sustain hundreds of dollars in livestock
A ph strip has to be removed in a minute- how would a badge remaining in water be effective?

It doesn’t sustain anything, but does give peace of mind and allow action to be taken in a catastrophic mishap, or to trend a parameter. Perhaps you should try out API, they are not as unreliable as the general wisdom would suggest. A load of information just gets regurgitated which is not necessarily the way the truth is obtained. Yes, I’ve seen your tank, it’s fantastic.

 

[reef_1]

Badge works also fir freshwater and very undependable as api kits
I will not rely on a $7 badge to sustain hundreds of dollars in livestock
A ph strip has to be removed in a minute- how would a badge remaining in water be effective?

Does it really hurt this much that a 7$ badge works better than all your latest top dollar high tech "just keep buying reagents for top $$$" marketing scam BS meters?

I got many ammonia spikes noticed by just looking at the seachem badge, doublechecked with API, both always showing the same story and working very well.

 

[vetteguy53081]

Does it really hurt this much that a 7$ badge works better than all your latest top dollar high tech "just keep buying reagents for top $$$" marketing scam BS meters?

I got many ammonia spikes noticed by just looking at the seachem badge, doublechecked with API, both always showing the same story and working very well.

They’re both api product but regardless, I have a few thousand in livestock and will not rely on this product to assure my investment is in check
I run trident and Hanna with salifert as a backup and they are always within +/~ 1.
Api has been off by as much as -25
I’ve encouraged many to test against api at an LFS and they were horrified by the difference in readings from a non api kit
You and anyone can use what they want but just stating they are not reliable
Been doing this 38 years and rarely see accurate api readings
I sold api at my store and experienced hobbyists rarely bought the api and I for some time wondered why

 

[Garf]

They’re both api product but regardless, I have a few thousand in livestock and will not rely on this product to assure my investment is in check
I run trident and Hanna with salifert as a backup and they are always within +/~ 1.
Api has been off by as much as -25
I’ve encouraged many to test against api at an LFS and they were horrified by the difference in readings from a non api kit
You and anyone can use what they want but just stating they are not reliable
Been doing this 38 years and rarely see accurate api readings
I sold api at my store and experienced hobbyists rarely bought the api and I for some time wondered why

The opening post was about ammonia and nitrite, where ball park trends are quite acceptable. I doubt you’ve used those parameters for donkeys years.

 

[LiamPM]

I just tested mixed saltwater I bought from my local fish store and that is testing at 0ppm for ammonia so could this really be my ammonia this late into the cycle? I have no fish or corals added yet and I’ve been rarely ghost feeding dude to how high the ammonia already is. I’m just super confused on it all

If you doubt your tanks testing results then the check to do is on some fresh salt water - You have already done that and you said it came back as zero - That to me says your test kit is working fine and i suspect you do have those high numbers of ammonia - No reason to doubt a test kit if it can and did produce a zero reading on a fresh batch of water.

I did a nice big water change today! And was able to get my ammonia down to 1ppm!! I also added the recommended amount of BIO-Spira from instant ocean! Hopefully this will help things out! Any other recommendations or should I just let it ride now!? Light are normally off as well!

Just let it ride out - Its now more inline to where it should be and its just a waiting game now.

API test kits generally arent too reliable, but for cycling purposes are more than ok - The false positives you often read about are usually because NH3 for example, often produces a colour that seems more liek 0.25 than zero on the chart, hence its touted as always produces ammonia even when it shouldnt - Its all down to eye interpretation though - For cycling, not much wrong with it, you dont need specifics to know your tank can process waste adequately.

 

[reef_1]

They’re both api product but regardless, I have a few thousand in livestock and will not rely on this product to assure my investment is in check
I run trident and Hanna with salifert as a backup and they are always within +/~ 1.
Api has been off by as much as -25
I’ve encouraged many to test against api at an LFS and they were horrified by the difference in readings from a non api kit
You and anyone can use what they want but just stating they are not reliable
Been doing this 38 years and rarely see accurate api readings
I sold api at my store and experienced hobbyists rarely bought the api and I for some time wondered why

I think my whole 2 systems worth less than one thousand including everything, glass, livestock and all my kit. What does this prove?

Its unrealistic to expect someone who is setting up his first tank and having an API kit - which actually shows values in line with what you would expect in a stalled cycle - to run and buy the latest most expensive testers.

In my opinion the expensive testers are for the pros and for people who has thousands in livestoc. For ppl who spent much less than a thousand on their whole system API combined with a seachem badge is almost more than whats needed.

 

[vetteguy53081]

I think my whole 2 systems worth less than one thousand including everything, glass, livestock and all my kit. What does this prove?

Its unrealistic to expect someone who is setting up his first tank and having an API kit - which actually shows values in line with what you would expect in a stalled cycle - to run and buy the latest most expensive testers.

In my opinion the expensive testers are for the pros and for people who has thousands in livestoc. For ppl who spent much less than a thousand on their whole system API combined with a seachem badge is almost more than whats needed.

Nothing to prove or argue
Just saying I am not relying on a certain kit to keep my tanks in check
Api has worked for some reefers but let down Many

 

[Mity Sergio]

I think my whole 2 systems worth less than one thousand including everything, glass, livestock and all my kit. What does this prove?

Its unrealistic to expect someone who is setting up his first tank and having an API kit - which actually shows values in line with what you would expect in a stalled cycle - to run and buy the latest most expensive testers.

In my opinion the expensive testers are for the pros and for people who has thousands in livestoc. For ppl who spent much less than a thousand on their whole system API combined with a seachem badge is almost more than whats needed.

I appreciate everyone’s advice on this thread and I realize that API isnt the most reliable brand to test parameters but every test I’ve preformed has correlated correctly with the process of the tank so I think it’s more than okay to use to track the cycle especially since there’s no live stock within the tank yet. Trust me I’d love to have a Hanna checker but it’s just not realistic yet for me especially with the upfront cost of just getting a salt water tank set up. Of course over time I will upgrade and add new things to the setup but I’m just trying to do the best I can with what I got until I can upgrade down the line. Also with the help of the community which I’m very thankful for everyone that has shared their thoughts on here!

 

[Mity Sergio]

If you doubt your tanks testing results then the check to do is on some fresh salt water - You have already done that and you said it came back as zero - That to me says your test kit is working fine and i suspect you do have those high numbers of ammonia - No reason to doubt a test kit if it can and did produce a zero reading on a fresh batch of water.

Just let it ride out - Its now more inline to where it should be and its just a waiting game now.

API test kits generally arent too reliable, but for cycling purposes are more than ok - The false positives you often read about are usually because NH3 for example, often produces a colour that seems more liek 0.25 than zero on the chart, hence its touted as always produces ammonia even when it shouldnt - Its all down to eye interpretation though - For cycling, not much wrong with it, you dont need specifics to know your tank can process waste adequately.

Thanks for your advice Liam!