Scott, you are correct "Robert Straughn" was all the "experts" rolled into one. He was keeping salt water fish in the 50s and probably the 40s. He not only kept just about every "fish" but also collected them himself with a two hose SCUBA regulator. I still have his book "The Salt Water Aquarium in the Home" and still refer to it occasionally. I never actually met him but, I read everything he wrote and in the 50s and 60s no one else was writing anything about salt water aquariums but him.
I started my tank with his recommendations of the UG filter. That turned out to be a disaster because as I said, he used it as a particle filter and a particle filter has to be removed and cleaned, not easy in a reef but not bad in those days when I had just fake corals and fish.
If I were to set up a tank from scratch today I would use my experience to make it easier. I would still use gravel, dolomite as I use now if I could get it with grains about as large as rice.
Of course I would still use a reverse UG filter as I have not found a system last any where near as long with very little maintenance. The water would be pumped down each tube very slowly, like 150GPH (as I do now with the help of a DIY manifold that allows the same amount of water to go into each tube) If it is pumped much faster than that, it clogs. If it is pumped at that speed, any detritus disintegrates about the same speed as it forms. I want some detritus because it slows down the flow just enough that anaerobic and aerobic zones form in the same place.
As for the rocks, I would do as I have been trying to do slightly unsuccessfully all these years because I didn't start it out this way. I have almost all of my rocks built up on DIY rock columns that are fairly thin so not much rock is actually touching my gravel. If I were to start this again, I would have almost no, or absolutely no rocks touching my gravel. To do that, I would build a frame out of thin DIY rock that would look exactly like rock. (almost all of my rock is like that and I like it so much I gave away all my real rock that I collected in the sea)
I would suspend my entire reef structure from above on either nylon or stainless steel cables. The cables would rise at the ends, or corners of my tank and would not be seen from the front.
If I wanted to get real crazy, I would make it so I could raise the entire structure a few inches, but If I didn't want to get to crazy, the reef structure would be suspended an inch or so above the gravel. This would not be noticeable as the bottom structure of the "rocks" would have differing heights and it would be very rough.
I would do this because a reverse UG filter needs yearly maintenance where I use my diatom filter to stir up the entire dolomite substrate. Now I can only do that in between the rocks and corals, but if I could raise the structure an inch or two, it would be more efficient.
My system works fine now but I would like that extra space. I would also use that space to look for creatures that I can't find as now sometimes I can't find a creature for weeks as it is hiding.
For the initial water fill I would use NSW if possible as I did when I filled my tank in 1971.
I would collect the water along with some mud and amphipods (as I do now) And occasionally add mud with the associated bacteria and amphipods.
I would not quarantine anything as I want my fish immune from all diseases as they are now so it would be as natural a tank as possible. To me, this is the most important step, but of course, not for everyone.
Fish come to us immune and all we need to do is allow them to keep that immunity. It has worked well for me so far and I have no need for medications, hospital or quarantine tank.
For food I would try to get live bacteria into the fish at almost every meal (as I do now) so I would still get live blackworms, live whiteworms and buy live clams if I could get them and I would freeze them myself.
The lighting would be LEDs only but I would probably have more of them than I do now as my lighting is inadequate. My LED system is water cooled and I kind of like that concept so I would again build that system.
I have no sump. but if I started a new tank I may incorporate a sump with a lighted refugium.
Now my algae scrubber is suspended above my tank. I think a sump would be easier.
If I were to keep the fish I have now which are many smaller fish such as pipefish, queen anthias, clown gobies, mandarins etc, with copperbands and some wrasses I would still hatch brine shrimp every day.
I don't particularly like predator tanks but that is a different system requiring different foods.
Of course I would still have a huge skimmer that I would use with Ozone. I have been using Ozone almost since I started the tank and don't really know if it does much good or bad, but it has worked so far, so why change?
I would use no bio pellets or dosers although I assume they could be beneficial. I dose two part by hand every week or so but I am very old school and have nothing against dosers. I would also use no water conditioners, Rowaphos, Chemi Clean or carbon and don't use them now.
I would use no bacteria in a bottle and would cycle with some dead piece of fish.
I think that's it.