At my wits end with acros

Oiva · Dec 23, 2019

This is just my experience with Acro’s.

Keeping things stable is key. Calibrate you’re refractometer once a month. I have much greater results with KH at 7-8 vs 8+.

I keep my No3 and Po4 low. Feed AF ABVE every day. Also all my tanks with acro like to consume Iodium and Kalium like crazy.

Ph 8.0-8.4 gives better growth.

I also dont run my leds on full power. 3 Hydra 26 on a SR-60 on 80% power.

Epic Aquaculture · Dec 23, 2019

duffer said:
i'm thinking bleaching, what would tissue recession look like?

Take a look at this thread:

Your Flippin' Acro Isn't Bleached... It's Receding!!!

So, I love to try to help people when they are having problems with their corals, but one thing that drives me bat poop crazy is the misuse of the term bleaching when it comes to SPS. It makes it very difficult to try to diagnose problems when the term bleaching is used for just about any...

www.reef2reef.com

45ZoaGarden · Dec 23, 2019

It isn’t about the number itself, it is about the stability of that number. It is probably easier for you to keep it in the 7 range than the over 8 range. People senselessly chase numbers. I’ve seen beautiful tanks between 7-12 dkh. It’s not the number, it’s the stability.

EMeyer said:
Yeah, lowering my alk to NSW levels was one of the best things I've ever done for my acros.

I will also add that a lot of the "forum theories" put forth about alkalinity lack any scientific evidence (e.g. the notion that skeleton can grow faster than tissue, which ignores the entire mechanism of how corals create skeleton in the first place). So I'd not put a lot of weight in 'theoretical' discussions about ideal alkalinity, personally.

In fact, my acro tank has slipped to 6.5 recently and they actually look happier than ever. I suspect either some people are misreading alkalinity or there is a big factor that no one understands yet explaining why some tanks can tolerate unnaturally high alkalinity.

Until we figure that out I'm sticking at 7 where my corals are happiest by far, and avoiding high coral killing levels of alkalinity.

TheOne · Dec 23, 2019

EMeyer said:
Yeah, lowering my alk to NSW levels was one of the best things I've ever done for my acros.

I will also add that a lot of the "forum theories" put forth about alkalinity lack any scientific evidence (e.g. the notion that skeleton can grow faster than tissue, which ignores the entire mechanism of how corals create skeleton in the first place). So I'd not put a lot of weight in 'theoretical' discussions about ideal alkalinity, personally.

In fact, my acro tank has slipped to 6.5 recently and they actually look happier than ever. I suspect either some people are misreading alkalinity or there is a big factor that no one understands yet explaining why some tanks can tolerate unnaturally high alkalinity.

Until we figure that out I'm sticking at 7 where my corals are happiest by far, and avoiding high coral killing levels of alkalinity.

Just curious what salt brand are you using? I'm currently using tropic marine pro because of the lower alkalinity levels. Thanks

motortrendz · Dec 23, 2019

What is your lighting schedule. Is the corals that are bleaching more centered under the lights? I'd suspect it's a light issue. Either too much directly under the lights or not enough overall.

45ZoaGarden · Dec 23, 2019

We need pictures!

Duffer · Dec 23, 2019

TheOne said:
Just curious what salt brand are you using? I'm currently using tropic marine pro because of the lower alkalinity levels. Thanks

Using Tropic marin pro

Duffer · Dec 23, 2019

motortrendz said:
What is your lighting schedule. Is the corals that are bleaching more centered under the lights? I'd suspect it's a light issue. Either too much directly under the lights or not enough overall.

Using AB+, and my corals seem to like it... ( i was having a difficult time with keeping chalise and now they are flourishing..)

I got the doser cause mths ago i was having swings with alk, i wanted to establish stability which i am getting now..

I don't think it's tissue recession but i will take pics later tonight.

motortrendz · Dec 23, 2019

Chalices require alot less light than acros. So you may have just answered your own question

Pennywise the Clown · Dec 23, 2019

duffer said:
Using AB+, and my corals seem to like it... ( i was having a difficult time with keeping chalise and now they are flourishing..)

I got the doser cause mths ago i was having swings with alk, i wanted to establish stability which i am getting now..

I don't think it's tissue recession but i will take pics later tonight.

I was using the BRSTV AB+ and the par from it was not even close to what I was expecting.

Duffer · Dec 23, 2019

motortrendz said:
Chalices require alot less light than acros. So you may have just answered your own question

Chalise are on the sand bed, low in the light. I have used the AB+ schedule for mths and the acro's were doing great , and now out of the blue yesterday i seen what i think bleaching,

I'm going to gradually lower the Alk

45ZoaGarden · Dec 23, 2019

The ab setting is a great program dont get me wrong. It just doesn’t pack a ton of par. I modified my ab slightly. I decreased the blues, cut off red and green, and bumped whites up to 35%.

duffer said:
Using AB+, and my corals seem to like it... ( i was having a difficult time with keeping chalise and now they are flourishing..)

I got the doser cause mths ago i was having swings with alk, i wanted to establish stability which i am getting now..

I don't think it's tissue recession but i will take pics later tonight.

Duffer · Dec 23, 2019

Pennywise the Clown said:
I was using the BRSTV AB+ and the par from it was not even close to what I was expecting.

What schedule are you using now?

45ZoaGarden · Dec 23, 2019

duffer said:
Chalise are on the sand bed, low in the light. I have used the AB+ schedule for mths and the acro's were doing great , and now out of the blue yesterday i seen what i think bleaching,

I'm going to gradually lower the Alk

Don’t lower the alk yet. Your alk is fine. We need pictures.

TheOne · Dec 23, 2019

I think a par meter is a necessity when growing acros. Most would be amazed at how little par they are actually getting.

Duffer · Dec 23, 2019

45ZoaGarden said:
The ab setting is a great program dont get me wrong. It just doesn’t pack a ton of par. I modified my ab slightly. I decreased the blues, cut off red and green, and bumped whites up to 35%.

I also cut the red's and greens, but have my whites at 11%

Duffer · Dec 23, 2019

TheOne said:
I think a par meter is a necessity when growing acros. Most would be amazed at how little par they are actually getting.

I can see that, but white(bleaching ) with my understanding isn't this caused by too much light and browning needed more light

45ZoaGarden · Dec 23, 2019

Yikes! These lights unfortunately get most of their par from the whites. You’re probably going to have to bump them up.

duffer said:
I also cut the red's and greens, but have my whites at 11%

Pennywise the Clown · Dec 23, 2019

duffer said:
What schedule are you using now?

AB+ but I have maxed out both blue channels (140% and 118% if I recall correctly) I still acclimating so not up to full power yet but my acros look much better.

45ZoaGarden · Dec 23, 2019

Bleaching can actually come from both ends. They can bleach in too little light. We don’t know that it is bleaching though. It could be tissue recession. Tissue recession is also caused by too little light. You need an icp test and to get your hands on a par meter imo