ATO Gravity fed
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I used a clear tote from Wal-Mart holds about 12g. 1/4 bulkhead fitting from home depot going to a 1/4 inch shut off valve, then to the float valve. Look for the fittings from home depot for ice water hook up for refrigerators.
Paul B
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I have this blue 7 gallon bucket hanging near the ceiling in my workshop. Water flows into it from the RO/DI and the level in the bucket is controlled with a DIY float switch connected to an electric valve which feeds the RO
A 25' tube runs over the ceiling to the tank, into a float switch. This has worked flawlessly for about 20 years with no problems or maintenance.
A 25' tube runs over the ceiling to the tank, into a float switch. This has worked flawlessly for about 20 years with no problems or maintenance.
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Neo Jeo
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I have this blue 7 gallon bucket hanging near the ceiling in my workshop. Water flows into it from the RO/DI and the level in the bucket is controlled with a DIY float switch connected to an electric valve which feeds the RO
A 25' tube runs over the ceiling to the tank, into a float switch. This has worked flawlessly for about 20 years with no problems or maintenance.
Thanks! Nice set up. I have a 7g tub I need to put under my tank. hope it flows right I still have to figure it out. I dont want to use a ATO system just the gravity set up
I’m using a 25g roto-mold container in the loft above my display tank. It is gravity fed and controlled by a Neptune solenoid valve near the sump. Excellent way to eliminate the need for a pump.
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Neo Jeo
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Thanks! I don't have t place to put it above the tank as you do. Ill have to prob customize a shelf under my tank once I get my sump in. I guess I need it above the sump because the 1/4" line will go over the side of the sump so it would have to be higher then the highest point....
I use a gravity feed ATO for my AIO and really like how simple it is. Been working great for a year and water hight never changes.
Edit.
I belive i missunderstod this thread a little. I thought you wanted inspiration for a gravity feed system. My bad.
Edit.
I belive i missunderstod this thread a little. I thought you wanted inspiration for a gravity feed system. My bad.
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Daltrey
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I use the closet next to my tank. I had to raise the containers so the water still flows up and over into my sump to a float switch. Works great and no pump or electricity required for top off.
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Neo Jeo
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Looks nice! So how does this work? Does the water get low in your main display tank or only in your sump or just in your return area? How does the float valve know when to kick in? I just dont get it haha
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The water lowers in the return chamber of the sump where your return pump is. Your return pump maintains the water level in the tank and sump. The water is moving. The float valve is shut when it raises up and open when it lowers. Your toilet uses one.
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Neo Jeo
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How low can I go?
Daltrey
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I have mine set to fill right above the level of my return pump. That way if the float valve ever stuck it wouldn't overflow my sump. I also have a pressure switch next to the float switch. If the water level ever drops below my pump return it will shut off my return pump and alert me via text.
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You don't want the pump to run dry and you don't want the water so high that when the power goes out that your sump is going to overfill. You want your return chamber as big is possible to minimize water fluctuations. Your baffles in the return chamber set the water height. You don't want the water to drop down the last baffle because that will make noise. I would set the height close to that when full or when the float is up and shuts the water off. Another reason I would not go just above the pump is I would want the extra water volume. More volume equals more stability.
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Yes. They make solenoid that will shut the water off.
NowGlazeIT
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Neo Jeo
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Is this what I would need?
1/4" Stainless, Normally Closed
0-115 psi, 1/4" NPT Ports, 0.125" orifice, 0.4 Cv value, 110v AC, stainless body w/ stainless parts, Can be mounted using two 5mm screws (not included), 3 foot power cord, 3" wide x 2.5" high x 2" deep
Also- I guess turning on the RO system on and off causes issues. So I would just have this open during the day for X amount of time? What do I use after the solenoid switch? Float valve?
Flippers4pups
Fins up since 1993
Direct RO/DI to sump is hard on your DI resin and there is the "TDS creep" that happens with this type of application.
Also in the remote possibly of a solenoid failure in the "on" position, a major flood could occur.
The safest application of ATO would be a ATO Reservoir total volume that wouldn't exceed your sumps ability to hold. In the case of failure and the ATO dumped it's total contents into the sump, it wouldn't be catastrophic.
Also a word on mechanical float valves in the sump, if anything gets between the valve surface keeping it from closing completely, the total contents of the ATO could dump into the sump. This application also is not to be used with kalkwasser in the ATO for the same reason. Calcium build up can occur over time and keep the valve open.
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