Automated Ball Valve - Apex Controlled

MaddyP · Jul 15, 2017

I thought I would share one of my recent projects. This is a Hayward motorized ball valve controlled by my Apex. These could be useful in automated water change systems, primarily in automating the transfer of water from one tank to another. No more forgetting to close a valve or open another.

I used two virtual outlets to trigger the ball valve, these could be replaced with a Feed button or a switch input through a BOB.

Ball valve wires into two 110v extension cords for use with Apex power bar. Very easy configuration.

Here's a quick video of it actuating.

Sacohen · Jul 15, 2017

I've used them in the past as a shut off to prevent back siphon if the power went out.
They will eventually fail, so make sure there is a fail safe.

MaddyP · Jul 15, 2017

Sacohen said:
I've used them in the past as a shut off to prevent back siphon if the power went out.
They will eventually fail, so make sure there is a fail safe.

Anything mechanical will fail at some point or another, I appreciate the reminder.

These ball valves can be rebuilt in the case something stops working or a seal fails.

Sacohen · Jul 15, 2017

The one I have is not a ball valve but an actuator I think.
Rather than slowly opening and closing like in the video.
It was more of a quick shut off.

The unions at the ends, are they a standard size?
I thought they were and the female sides I left on my old tank and I can't find a female that will fit.

MaddyP · Jul 15, 2017

Sacohen said:
The one I have is not a ball valve but an actuator I think.
Rather than slowly opening and closing like in the video.
It was more of a quick shut off.

The unions at the ends, are they a standard size?
I thought they were and the female sides I left on my old tank and I can't find a female that will fit.

Ah, I see what you mean. These take about 2.5 seconds to open or close. Yes, this ball valve is 1" slip on both sides.

Sacohen · Jul 15, 2017

Ok thanks.

LobsterOfJustice · Jul 24, 2017

Where did you purchase the valve?

EDIT: looks like these?

http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=23566&catid=803

Can you elaborate on the wiring a little more? Why does it need two cords? Is the valve closed when no power is supplied and open when power supplied, or is it more complicated than that?

MaddyP · Jul 24, 2017

LobsterOfJustice said:
Where did you purchase the valve?

EDIT: looks like these?

http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=23566&catid=803

Can you elaborate on the wiring a little more? Why does it need two cords? Is the valve closed when no power is supplied and open when power supplied, or is it more complicated than that?

Those are the correct valves. These have built in limit switches that trigger when a the open or close reached the correct rotation. The two cords differentiate an open or close "command." Maybe there is a better way to wire it? The schematic shows switches to change open to close...

LobsterOfJustice · Jul 24, 2017

So when you cut open an extension cord to wire this to, it will have black, white, and ground inside it, right? It looks like this valve has white, back, brown, and green coming out of it - so which wires on the valve need to go to which wires on each extension cord? If I had to guess, I would say wire the white from each extension cord to the white on the valve (so three wires in a nut), black from one cord to black on the valve, black from the other cord to brown on the valve, and ground from each extension cord to the ground on the valve? That's just me reasoning through it and not knowing how to read a wiring diagram lol.

When you actuate it, do you turn that outlet on indefinitely or just need to turn the respective outlet on for about ~5 seconds to complete the state change? What happens if both, or neither, outlets are on?

MaddyP · Jul 24, 2017

LobsterOfJustice said:
So when you cut open an extension cord to wire this to, it will have black, white, and ground inside it, right? It looks like this valve has white, back, brown, and green coming out of it - so which wires on the valve need to go to which wires on each extension cord? If I had to guess, I would say wire the white from each extension cord to the white on the valve (so three wires in a nut), black from one cord to black on the valve, black from the other cord to brown on the valve, and ground from each extension cord to the ground on the valve? That's just me reasoning through it and not knowing how to read a wiring diagram lol.

When you actuate it, do you turn that outlet on indefinitely or just need to turn the respective outlet on for about ~5 seconds to complete the state change? What happens if both, or neither, outlets are on?

You are exactly correct. This is how I wired it and it seems to work properly. Another option would be to wire this to a two-way switch. One direction would be open, the other closed. If you leave the switch in one position, the internal limiter keeps the motor from being powered. According to the schematic, both outlets should not be on at the same time. This may be why the schematic shows a switch that changes the black to brown, this would limit only one being powered at a time.

I currently have two outlets wired up and program the Apex to turn one on at a time for 3 seconds. This is 0.5 sec more than needed to complete the position change.

LobsterOfJustice · Jul 24, 2017

Okay I think I get it. My specific situation is I have an "in-tank herbie" overflow setup without an overflow box. So I have a siphon drain about 3" down in to my tank, and if the return pump is off or the power goes out, the tank will drop to this level. I have designed the system so this is not a disaster and the sump can handle the extra volume, but it would still be nice if it didn't happen. So I'd like to have a valve on this line that the apex can shut off if the power goes out or the return pump is off. It looks like some other valves are either "normally open" or "normally closed", which will automatically default to a state when the power is removed - this would be preferred in my setup just since the programming would be a bit easier and it would avoid me needing to put the valve on battery backup power (not a huge issue, I already have a battery located where the valve would be installed). But this valve is cheaper than the alternatives I've seen and at least I know how to wire this one up to work with the apex thanks to you.

MaddyP · Jul 24, 2017

LobsterOfJustice said:
Okay I think I get it. My specific situation is I have an "in-tank herbie" overflow setup without an overflow box. So I have a siphon drain about 3" down in to my tank, and if the return pump is off or the power goes out, the tank will drop to this level. I have designed the system so this is not a disaster and the sump can handle the extra volume, but it would still be nice if it didn't happen. So I'd like to have a valve on this line that the apex can shut off if the power goes out or the return pump is off. It looks like some other valves are either "normally open" or "normally closed", which will automatically default to a state when the power is removed - this would be preferred in my setup just since the programming would be a bit easier and it would avoid me needing to put the valve on battery backup power (not a huge issue, I already have a battery located where the valve would be installed). But this valve is cheaper than the alternatives I've seen and at least I know how to wire this one up to work with the apex thanks to you.

No worries! In case you were thinking of buying one, I have two posted for sale in the sales forum. New and never been used.

LobsterOfJustice · Jul 24, 2017

MaddyP said:
No worries! In case you were thinking of buying one, I have two posted for sale in the sales forum. New and never been used.

Man you had me excited for a sec but I need 2". Good deal though.

MaddyP · Jul 24, 2017

LobsterOfJustice said:
Man you had me excited for a sec but I need 2". Good deal though.

Ha, I understand! Share a video once you get it set up!

I just ordered tanks for a mixing station in which I'll use a 3-way automated valve.

MaddyP · Aug 2, 2017

Finally had some time over the weekend to wire up the 3-way valve! It'll work similar to the 2-way. Still waiting on the tanks for my mixing station, I'll document the progress using this valve there.

MaddyP · Aug 9, 2017

Update! Finished the programming and testing of the 3-way valve through Apex Fusion in a theoretical installation. Although it took a few virtual outlets, the solution is fairly clean! I'll post a video this evening of a full test, but for now here is a snapshot of my Apex screen. First column is physical outlets, second column is virtual outlets, and third column is four buttons and four float switches.

MaddyP · Aug 10, 2017

Here is a quick video simulating the transfer from RODI tank to mixing (salt) tank. When the "Transfer" button is pressed, the valve is activated to transfer position and pump activates to move water. As the level rises in the salt tank the float switches register the high level and activates valve to change back to mixing position.

reefwiser · Aug 10, 2017

Nice it looks like my work. I work in a large food factory and we do the same thing with batter for hotcakes.

I have been using this type of system for 30 years .

MaddyP · Aug 10, 2017

reefwiser said:
Nice it looks like my work. I work in a large food factory and we do the same thing with batter for hotcakes. I have been using this type of system for 30 years .

I guess its about time some of the industrial automation makes its way into reefing...