Automatic Gate/Ball Valves

[GamerDadof4]

Just wondering if there is such thing as an automatic (read: controllable) ball valve?

I'm trying to fully automate my water changing station - I already have automated water changing and ATO but.... I want to be able to move water from FW (left) to my SW bin on the right.

I have low level sensor in my SW bin and when closed - I would want to close the bottom right ball valve - open the bottom left ball valve and fill till high level sensor in my SW bin. After water has been moved over - I will automatically mix salt.

Any thoughts?

 

[Greybeard]

Yup. I use quarter inch electric ball valves to turn water on/off in my system. More reliable than solenoid valves.

3/4" UPVC Electric Ball Valve - 3 Wire

The model BVP5CE is a ¾” Motorized Ball Valve with a UPVC molded body. The molded plastic body has ¾” NPT inlet and outlet ports. The valve seals are EPDM and PTFE. This component combination makes this valve an excellent choice for both potable water and corrosive chemicals like salt water and...

www.electricsolenoidvalves.com

 

[GamerDadof4]

@Greybeard - I appreciate it going to look into this!
So I am guessing these into a breakout box then?

 

[ca1ore]

I've used a couple of the same valves greybeard linked above, though in my case it was the 1/2" version. They work really well. They need full mains power though, not through a breakout box (if you meant apex).

 

[Greybeard]

Breakout box? Well, kinda... Wiring to an Apex can me a bit of a challenge. The Breakout box gives you INPUTS (for level sensors, etc) It does not give you OUTPUTS. On the 832 power supply, there are 2x 24VDC Outputs that are controllable. I'd use these. Apex sells a cable with this plug on one end and bare wires on the other end.

The electric ball valves I use are 1/4" 2 wire, auto return. I'm using them as a safety... if the primary float valve fails, water level hits a high level sensor, turn off the flow and alert me. I need it to close if the power fails. With the 3 wire version, it's going to stay in current position when the power fails. I didn't see a 3/4" version exactly like the one I use.

 

[GamerDadof4]

ah - you are right - breakout box won't do it. Yeah I run Apex for everything and would have these connected as well . I will look for that cable. I appreciate the help.

 

[Reef AquaCult]

Wouldnt it be easier to just get another water pump for FW reservoir and control via Apex/smart switch?

 

[BZOFIQ]

Breakout box? Well, kinda... Wiring to an Apex can me a bit of a challenge. The Breakout box gives you INPUTS (for level sensors, etc) It does not give you OUTPUTS. On the 832 power supply, there are 2x 24VDC Outputs that are controllable. I'd use these. Apex sells a cable with this plug on one end and bare wires on the other end.

The electric ball valves I use are 1/4" 2 wire, auto return. I'm using them as a safety... if the primary float valve fails, water level hits a high level sensor, turn off the flow and alert me. I need it to close if the power fails. With the 3 wire version, it's going to stay in current position when the power fails. I didn't see a 3/4" version exactly like the one I use.

@Greybeard can you link the specific 1/4" valves you use please? Thank you.

 

[GamerDadof4]

Wouldnt it be easier to just get another water pump for FW reservoir and control via Apex/smart switch?

Yeah - I've thought about it and I could do that. I have some ideas later on for manifold that I wanted to test out in a less "production" environment.

 

[Greybeard]

@Greybeard can you link the specific 1/4" valves you use please? Thank you.

Sure.

2 wire auto return 1/4" valve

1/4", stainless. Don't want brass, plastic doesn't seem to be available, and in my case, it's on a fresh water line... no worries.

I use a bit of joint tape and one of these on each end:

1/4" push connect / NPT

So... with this setup, you connect from the 24VDC output on your 832. Turn it on, valve opens. Turn it off, valve closes. Doesn't heat up like a solenoid does, much more reliable, in my experience. Power fails, it closes itself. Just what you need as a fail safe on water running into your system.

Don't have a 24VDC output available? Plug a cheap 12VDC brick into an Apex controlled outlet, and connect that to the valve. Works the same way. Or, the 1Link module has 2 more 24VDC outputs... for $150.

 

[BZOFIQ]

Sure.

2 wire auto return 1/4" valve

1/4", stainless. Don't want brass, plastic doesn't seem to be available, and in my case, it's on a fresh water line... no worries.

I use a bit of joint tape and one of these on each end:

1/4" push connect / NPT

So... with this setup, you connect from the 24VDC output on your 832. Turn it on, valve opens. Turn it off, valve closes. Doesn't heat up like a solenoid does, much more reliable, in my experience. Power fails, it closes itself. Just what you need as a fail safe on water running into your system.

Don't have a 24VDC output available? Plug a cheap 12VDC brick into an Apex controlled outlet, and connect that to the valve. Works the same way. Or, the 1Link module has 2 more 24VDC outputs... for $150.

Great, I got some solenoids but they will have to be relegated to ATO duty as they really heat up after 10-15 minutes to a level I'm not comfortable with. I'll set it up to fill multiple times a day with that setup.

Thanks again for posting.

 

[User1]

I was going to tag @robbyg and @ca1ore in case they have used them before. Both into automation so may know something. I really don't have anything or know anything about them but have done a test using a Amazon dot. Basically I put the pump on a smart switch and then move a dot into the room with the tank, run the hose to the tank, and can say Alexa - turn on wpump. It flips the pump on and new saltwater starts to flow. Tell Alexa to turn off wpump, and it stops. In case she doesn't listen to me (has happened a few times - I swear she is in her terrible two's) I was going to try a hose bib on the end that lets me stop the flow so I can run out to the garage and unplug it.

I don't think this is what you are after but it is one thing I've tried.

 

[GamerDadof4]

I am BIG into automation. EVERYTHING is automated. Even feeding my dogs. I have a container with dog food with a raspberry pi connected to google home that feeds them at 2 a day intervals or I can have Google feed the dogs. The raspberry pi controls a servo motor that spins some plastic fins and drops in food to the bowls.

I am going to build a prototype over my saltwater bin. I have a conductivity probe to measure salt - when the bin is filled up with FW - It will 'drop' in salt a little at a time till the reading is at target. My only draw back was after a large water change my saltwater bin would be empty and I would have to go out to the garage and manually change the ball valves. pump the water over - pour in the salt and then change the ball valves back to mix the saltwater... Not hard work just too manual

 

[Greybeard]

I'm all about automation... where it makes sense. Heck, that's what I do for a living. The industrial systems I work on have many thousands of I/O points.

1st rule of automation: It will fail at some point. Make sure it fails in a way that won't cause damage, and that you'll be alerted when it happens.

I had a DOS pump doing auto water changes. Noticed one day that my corals weren't looking very good. Turns out the Mixing Station->Sump line on the DOS was plugged. The Sump->Drain line was fine... so, the DOS had been pumping water down the drain for who knows how long, without replacing it... which my ATO system happily refilled.

Salinity 1.012 when I found the problem. Luckily, I didn't loose anything in that one, but I could have, easily.

No more AWC for me. Not until I can attach a RELIABLE salinity probe to the system to catch this sort of thing before it causes a disaster. Note: I said RELIABLE. Apex's salinity probe does not fit that description.

 

[robbyg]

I was going to tag @robbyg and @ca1ore in case they have used them before. Both into automation so may know something. I really don't have anything or know anything about them but have done a test using a Amazon dot. Basically I put the pump on a smart switch and then move a dot into the room with the tank, run the hose to the tank, and can say Alexa - turn on wpump. It flips the pump on and new saltwater starts to flow. Tell Alexa to turn off wpump, and it stops. In case she doesn't listen to me (has happened a few times - I swear she is in her terrible two's) I was going to try a hose bib on the end that lets me stop the flow so I can run out to the garage and unplug it.

I don't think this is what you are after but it is one thing I've tried.

I was looking at these years ago but all the ones I found worked like the XR33 that they list.
They basically stay in whatever state they are in when a power outage occurs. I really like the XR22 because that uses a charged capacitor to move the valve to the Off posistion when power is lost. Overall the XR22 look like a good investment for an AWC system.

 

[BZOFIQ]

.... Note: I said RELIABLE. Apex's salinity probe does not fit that description.

LOL, thats so true

 

[GamerDadof4]

I wish it was reliable :/ so disappointing.

 

[MaddyP]

Automated ball valves are fantastic. I’ll be using two on my upcoming build.

 

[Mikeltee]

I was going to tag @robbyg and @ca1ore in case they have used them before. Both into automation so may know something. I really don't have anything or know anything about them but have done a test using a Amazon dot. Basically I put the pump on a smart switch and then move a dot into the room with the tank, run the hose to the tank, and can say Alexa - turn on wpump. It flips the pump on and new saltwater starts to flow. Tell Alexa to turn off wpump, and it stops. In case she doesn't listen to me (has happened a few times - I swear she is in her terrible two's) I was going to try a hose bib on the end that lets me stop the flow so I can run out to the garage and unplug it.

I don't think this is what you are after but it is one thing I've tried.

How do you walk around town with balls that big? Having Alexa turn off a water pump during water changes? I wouldnt trust her to flush my toilet!

 

[User1]

How do you walk around town with balls that big? Having Alexa turn off a water pump during water changes? I wouldnt trust her to flush my toilet!

Well....it is a risk for sure but I can always kink the hose to stop while I yell at her . But I also am working on a better solution. I'm modifying a wagon with 2 20 gallon buckets. One with new water and one to hold what I take out. Then it should be as simple as wheeling in, tossing in a pump to remove then add.

Wish I would have planned out my garage a bit better because I'm sure I could have done something easier with automatic water changes...maybe another time.