Automatic RODI with GHL

[Fisherman Joe]

Hi all.

I have two options in my head, i would like some advice to help me decide which route to take.

I currently own (in the UK) a 4 stage RODI filter with a booster pump, i plan to add more DI pods and automate the flow to my new tanks top up tank in the sump.

My two options are:

1 - Use GHL float switches and solenoids to tell the Profilux controller when to open the valve and top up the fresh water tank (this would involve running a Plugbar in to the utility room next to my dining room - where the RO unit is going to be, not a big deal but costly)

2 - Buy an Avast Barrel Tender to keep the top up tank full and just use pressure switches to turn the booster pump on and off (this would need me to make the 12v connectors as the pressure switches in the UK only seem to some with 2 pin wires OR buy some pressure switches from the USA and hope they work)

In either case i want to install an auto flush valve too. Moving in a month, new tank arriving in a month. Never used GHL or built an auto RODI before so its been a challenge to wrap my head around.

Appreciate any advice. Not sure which route to take.

 

[road_runner]

Hi all.

I have two options in my head, i would like some advice to help me decide which route to take.

I currently own (in the UK) a 4 stage RODI filter with a booster pump, i plan to add more DI pods and automate the flow to my new tanks top up tank in the sump.

My two options are:

1 - Use GHL float switches and solenoids to tell the Profilux controller when to open the valve and top up the fresh water tank (this would involve running a Plugbar in to the utility room next to my dining room - where the RO unit is going to be, not a big deal but costly)

2 - Buy an Avast Barrel Tender to keep the top up tank full and just use pressure switches to turn the booster pump on and off (this would need me to make the 12v connectors as the pressure switches in the UK only seem to some with 2 pin wires OR buy some pressure switches from the USA and hope they work)

In either case i want to install an auto flush valve too. Moving in a month, new tank arriving in a month. Never used GHL or built an auto RODI before so its been a challenge to wrap my head around.

Appreciate any advice. Not sure which route to take.

When it come to ATO I like the old fashion floats...I just trust them bit more..
Maybe am still traumatized from the ATK days I do not trust optical water sensors ha ha

 

[Fisherman Joe]

It is true that the more complicated things get, the more fragile you become.

On that note I might opt for float switches. The prices of some of these pressure switches on eBay makes me nervous. I dont think you can scream quality when something costs £6.

How would i make the GHL control the Booster pump effectively and have it shut off the waste water?

 

[road_runner]

It is true that the more complicated things get, the more fragile you become.

On that note I might opt for float switches. The prices of some of these pressure switches on eBay makes me nervous. I dont think you can scream quality when something costs £6.

How would i make the GHL control the Booster pump effectively and have it shut off the waste water?

That I have not done so I would differ to @Ditto

 

[Fisherman Joe]

Yeah spoke to him, nice guy, he has an Avast Barrel tender.

Might just stick with that if its tried and tested.

 

[road_runner]

Would it all you need to do is to have the booster pump socket follow the ATO event? If ATO is on booster on, if off booster off?

 

[Ditto]

Could use a 120 volt solenoid like this:

https://www.electricsolenoidvalves....MIscfHvOeb4wIVtv7jBx0FhgLIEAQYASABEgL0fPD_BwE

It allows you you to use a float switches.

You want to make sure it off when powered off When both float switches are open the solenoid turns on. You also tie your booster pump to the same logic so water on your ato gets low outlet turns on the solenoid opens and the booster bump that feeds your rodi also turns on.

 

[ispookie666]

Using your RODI to produce RO when your AtO needs it is a very inefficient way to produce water.

GHL optical level sensor in the sump as level sensor and it in turn controlling a socket to which the pump is attached.

For your RODI production
-two level sensors (I would use optical or any other - with ADIN) with a float style RO as a passive redundancy.
- use min-max control, this can control multiple sockets -one can be your booster, the others can be your Solenoid(feed water or any other).

May need playing around with the programmable logic, timers etc.. easiest way to learn would be trial and error -check when the sockets turn on and off.

 

[ppatches24]

When it come to ATO I like the old fashion floats...I just trust them bit more..
Maybe am still traumatized from the ATK days I do not trust optical water sensors ha ha

LOL the first night I set up my ATO the float switch did t work and flooded my first floor. That was crap. Problem fixed now. I understand that everything has a lemon. I'm know my optical sensors could fail at any point as well. But that float vaule is sketch. IMO. I am still using one on my saltwater mixing station and it hasn't failed.

 

[road_runner]

LOL the first night I set up my ATO the float switch did t work and flooded my first floor. That was crap. Problem fixed now. I understand that everything has a lemon. I'm know my optical sensors could fail at any point as well. But that float vaule is sketch. IMO. I am still using one on my saltwater mixing station and it hasn't failed.

I have a float valve on my ATO line for situations like these...

 

[Fisherman Joe]

I agree with everything above.

I would have a min and max on the Top up tank but then with a leak detector underneath too, in case something fails.

I’m not sure if I should get optical switches or float switches.

What I do like the idea of is setting up another solenoid with a plug bar to offer a good long flush of the membrane. I just struggle to find quality looking solenoids and stuff in the UK thats wired up for 240v. Don’t want to solder lol.

 

[Fisherman Joe]

How would I turn off the waste water? Use something like a 4 way pressure switch? Or again add a solenoid?

 

[Fisherman Joe]

If your making your own auto flush, I’m thinking have a Y valve, one side you would you include a flow restrictor (in the on position) and then have a solenoid at the other side with a T valve that turns on to flush?

Does that make sense?

Sorry for all the questions. Just been to Yoga and I’m channeling my inner peace right now. It’s helping build in redundancies lol.

 

[ispookie666]

How would I turn off the waste water? Use something like a 4 way pressure switch? Or again add a solenoid?

Just add a solenoid switch for the mains water, dont need to think about the passive four port solenoids

 

[ispookie666]

If your making your own auto flush, I’m thinking have a Y valve, one side you would you include a flow restrictor (in the on position) and then have a solenoid at the other side with a T valve that turns on to flush?

Does that make sense?

Sorry for all the questions. Just been to Yoga and I’m channeling my inner peace right now. It’s helping build in redundancies lol.

Why not draw and post it, would make it a lot easier to follow.

 

[Fisherman Joe]

Once I have it firm in my head I will draw it.

It’s like Picasso at the minute : D

Would a passive valve not be more reliable than an electric solenoid?

 

[Fisherman Joe]

In fact, it’s actually quite simple.

When the top up water reaches the low level sensor, the Plugbar opens the valve to the water supply, also turns on the booster pump and opens the flush valve for 2 minutes. Then closes the flush valve until the upper limit is reached.

What would the needed redundancy be here? What could fail first?

 

[ispookie666]

The flush valve cannot be in the same circuit as your booster.
Your feed water solenoid can be.
You can use passive, but everytime your water level falls in the storage container, your RODI production would start, but your booster would not be turned on!

 

[Fisherman Joe]

Yep. Makes sense. I would run them all in their own circuits anyway.

The feed water and the booster pump would come on and off together.

The flush would just come on at the same time for a few minutes.

 

[Fisherman Joe]

How would you pipe in the flush valve?

Would the system work like I mentioned with two Y splitters?