Bad Salifert Test?

OlPainless

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So I’ve done about 6 nitrate tests with with Salifert test I bought new from the lfs and it turns the same color every time making me think my nitrates are 50-100 ppm. lfs tested my water with an API test and said I had 10-20 ppm. I’ve also been doing a lot of water changes lately thinking they are super high nitrates. Can you get a bad Salifert test or can I just not get rid of these high nitrates?

5B20987E-3D8C-4E20-ADFD-A44A24A5CEDD.jpeg 2563C4BE-0028-467E-B0B4-9D1226DA1081.jpeg
 
Ugh more money ‍♂️
Yes and no at the same time. Spend more money on the test up front. If your get good results and are not testing multiple times questioning, is it really more money in the long run?
 
An expired salifert still more credible than API kit
There should be an expiration sticker on the salifert box (looks like a price tag)
 
It's possible that it's bad based on my ending up with a bad Salifert phosphate test that always showed very low phosphates. I fed heavy and even ended up dosing to try and get them up. I eventually took the water to the lfs when I had a huge gha outbreak and zoas started dying. Phosphates were all the way up to 0.40. Now I use a Hanna tester.
 
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If you tested it before and after aa large percentage of water change and the test color stayed the same.... then I would think it was a faulty test. Also. Make sure you read it right at the 3 minute mark. My salifert test darken up really fast if you let it sit too long.
 
So I’ve done about 6 nitrate tests with with Salifert test I bought new from the lfs and it turns the same color every time making me think my nitrates are 50-100 ppm. lfs tested my water with an API test and said I had 10-20 ppm. I’ve also been doing a lot of water changes lately thinking they are super high nitrates. Can you get a bad Salifert test or can I just not get rid of these high nitrates?

5B20987E-3D8C-4E20-ADFD-A44A24A5CEDD.jpeg 2563C4BE-0028-467E-B0B4-9D1226DA1081.jpeg
You're supposed to sit the vial on the white part of the card and compare from directly above in daylight (not warm white light).

The salifert test is accurate enough.

Did a test right now (it was due), and my Hanna HR says 6.4 and the salifert says 5
 
ACTUALLY...

I used to sing the praises of the Salifert NO3 test kits, until my nitrate started going up, and going up, and I ran into problems controlling it with waterchanges... I like to keep my NO3 around 10, and that is a fairly easy number to read with the Salifert kit. But, my Sal kit started giving results around 25 and then between 25 and 50. So, I did a couple of water changes that barely made a dent. Then did a pretty big one that brought it down somewhat. I tested my RODI water because my membrane is over a year old, it read something like a couple ppm on the Sal test kit. I changed my sediment filter, I changed my DI resin. I tested with my BRS TDS meter - nothing, 0TDS. Retested after prefilter and DI cart change with the Sal kit - still a couple ppm. I made a quick and dirty standard up using ESV NO3 additive and tested that - way higher than it should have been. I pulled a nitrate standard from the lab - also way high. By trusting the Salifert results (my fault - I usually test a standard with each kit, but with this one I did not) I bottomed out my NO3.

So I ordered a HACH color disc NO3 kit. Super easy to use, Lab grade reagents, 2 minutes to test... turns out I had bottomed out my nitrate by putting trust in the Salifert NO3 kit - NO3 was 1ppm. I started having STN on my Montipora digitata!!! DIGITATA! Yikes! So, slowly brought it back up, and now I test 1x per week with the HACH kit. It's expensive, but the color disc is super easy to use with a very low chance of misinterpretation - even down low on the scale. It's spendy though. But, it is pretty accurate. Pinned my 10ppm standard (and not my quick and dirty one) perfectly, 3 times in a row.

I still like Salifert for ALK, and for Mg, but I will never trust their NO3 kit again. Have been using the ALK kit in the Mastertronic lately, and it works pretty well.
 
ACTUALLY...

I used to sing the praises of the Salifert NO3 test kits, until my nitrate started going up, and going up, and I ran into problems controlling it with waterchanges... I like to keep my NO3 around 10, and that is a fairly easy number to read with the Salifert kit. But, my Sal kit started giving results around 25 and then between 25 and 50. So, I did a couple of water changes that barely made a dent. Then did a pretty big one that brought it down somewhat. I tested my RODI water because my membrane is over a year old, it read something like a couple ppm on the Sal test kit. I changed my sediment filter, I changed my DI resin. I tested with my BRS TDS meter - nothing, 0TDS. Retested after prefilter and DI cart change with the Sal kit - still a couple ppm. I made a quick and dirty standard up using ESV NO3 additive and tested that - way higher than it should have been. I pulled a nitrate standard from the lab - also way high. By trusting the Salifert results (my fault - I usually test a standard with each kit, but with this one I did not) I bottomed out my NO3.

So I ordered a HACH color disc NO3 kit. Super easy to use, Lab grade reagents, 2 minutes to test... turns out I had bottomed out my nitrate by putting trust in the Salifert NO3 kit - NO3 was 1ppm. I started having STN on my Montipora digitata!!! DIGITATA! Yikes! So, slowly brought it back up, and now I test 1x per week with the HACH kit. It's expensive, but the color disc is super easy to use with a very low chance of misinterpretation - even down low on the scale. It's spendy though. But, it is pretty accurate. Pinned my 10ppm standard (and not my quick and dirty one) perfectly, 3 times in a row.

I still like Salifert for ALK, and for Mg, but I will never trust their NO3 kit again. Have been using the ALK kit in the Mastertronic lately, and it works pretty well.
Welp, still confused on my issue even more now after reading this and everyone else's replies. Ha, thanks for the info. I'll try a few things and see whats what.
 
So I’ve done about 6 nitrate tests with with Salifert test I bought new from the lfs and it turns the same color every time making me think my nitrates are 50-100 ppm. lfs tested my water with an API test and said I had 10-20 ppm. I’ve also been doing a lot of water changes lately thinking they are super high nitrates. Can you get a bad Salifert test or can I just not get rid of these high nitrates?

5B20987E-3D8C-4E20-ADFD-A44A24A5CEDD.jpeg 2563C4BE-0028-467E-B0B4-9D1226DA1081.jpeg
Glad someone else mentioned this!! Yesterday I did a water test using API and my Nitrate was 20ppm, did a 10% water change. I literally got a salifert Nitrate test today and my result keeps coming up at 100ppm (ultra pink colour) and the API test today was 10ppm like what the heck
 
Glad someone else mentioned this!! Yesterday I did a water test using API and my Nitrate was 20ppm, did a 10% water change. I literally got a salifert Nitrate test today and my result keeps coming up at 100ppm (ultra pink colour) and the API test today was 10ppm like what the heck
Were you looking from above the test vial or from the side?
 

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