Bean Animal Help
- Thread starter Robbie P
- Start date
- Tagged users None
Yes they did. When the system was installed they were taken off. I have them. I can re-attach them.... specifically the primary. I had not thought about that. Thanks!! That could definitely help in eliminating the whirlpool and not drawing air.
If low enough in the external overflow box, it shouldn’t draw air. I think Synergy has both drilled because of tooling costs for the mold. When I had my Synergy, both U pipes had holes too. If you don’t want to deal with it, get a regular 90 degree elbow and a 90 degree street elbow and join them, making your own u pipe.
Got it. Thanks for the tip. I’ll cover it with some silicone. So the primary should not have a hole.... the secondary (if I use it for the secondary) should. Assuming the upipe isn’t not quite as important for the secondary.
cracker
5000 Club Member
Try the utubes I run just straight pipes on both of mine the siphons are very short & the box is almost full to the top. I keep the water level high so there is no drop from the tank into the box( the box outside the tank) . The water flows into the box ,no fall. You will figure it out & be happy with it !
Ferrell
Valuable Member
My shadow overflow came with two U-shaped fittings that each had holes drilled in them. Followed instructions for length of pipe (also watched video from synergy) and only had to make adjustments to one pipe. Gate valve made final adjustment. Haven’t touched for a year +
One more question.... not sure if I should start a new thread. I have a 45 Gallon pentagon display per the pics. I have a 15 gallon sump... and a separate 8 gallOn Fuge. The Fuge is fed by a manifold pvc pipe... and water is then drained back into the sump. This allows me to run my Fuge at whatever speed I choose as it is not connect d to the display tank flow rat.e I plan to keep cheato (all I know). Looking for a recommended flow rate for the Fuge. I’ve heard slower is better.
Well. Back from my mini vacation today. Spent a few hours with my tank. I’m still having issues. I did the following:
1). Established the lowest primary drain and highest secondary drain in the overflow box to establish as much water pressure as possible.
2). Have the u-fitting attached to my primary drain to remove the whirlpool effect that was creating a pocket of air.
3). Reduced the length on the pvc pipe that enters the water on the main drain line so that it is basically only 2” submerged (it was over 5 inches before).
4). Tried a million combinations of flow and gate bake changes. But at the end of the day.... I still have substantial noise in the drain pipes. I don’t know what is wrong.
I honestly thought the bean animal was a super quiet system with just about zero noose in the pipes. This is totally not what I expected.
1). Established the lowest primary drain and highest secondary drain in the overflow box to establish as much water pressure as possible.
2). Have the u-fitting attached to my primary drain to remove the whirlpool effect that was creating a pocket of air.
3). Reduced the length on the pvc pipe that enters the water on the main drain line so that it is basically only 2” submerged (it was over 5 inches before).
4). Tried a million combinations of flow and gate bake changes. But at the end of the day.... I still have substantial noise in the drain pipes. I don’t know what is wrong.
I honestly thought the bean animal was a super quiet system with just about zero noose in the pipes. This is totally not what I expected.
w2inc
Active Member
I used a piece of really wide open filter sponge between my out flow from my tank and my syphon down pipe. It smoothed out the water and kept the air bubbles from splashing into the syphon drain line. I also keep my water level up at the edge of the secondary flow pipe. It seems to help keep the vortex from forming.Jere’s A pic of the pipes in the overflow box. I actually now have the siphon pipe lower and the second pipe a bit higher than this picture a to create more water pressure on the siphon pipe. The water level is up to the second pike with a trickle. That said.... per the note above maybe I’ll lower the siphon pipe even more (close to the base) and raise the second pipe closer to the emergency pipe.... thus creating as much water volume as possible in the box to create the max pressure on the siphon pipe. Hopefully this will create the purge I think I’m missing.
I did glue all of the PVC pipe joints with cement.
When I have space to do it, I have 2 elbows on the top of my drain. They are making a u-turn so that exit flow opening is facing down. The water rises up to the secondary overflow for maybe 30 seconds, but when it catches, it does it fast and completely. Fixes all vortex issues.
My best guess is that your noise is coming from an air leak on the lower side of your gate valve, but you would see some bubbles showing up in your sump if it were. If there is a union some place in the drain line then pull it off and run a bead of super glue or whatever you have near by around the pipe to valve joint. Be sure the o-ring on the union is clean, smooth, and wet when you join the union.
I do think silicone pipe is a good idea. It would stop vibration noise and be easy to work around when you have to dig through your sump. It would also let you see what is going on inside. It would also make for smoother bends in your drain line. Gives you better water flow and a faster syphon catch. Maybe more of a last resort. I think you can fix it a little more easily.
Try to pinpoint exactly where the noise is coming from. I have a stethoscope with a metal probe on it from doing automotive work. Before I had those I used a long screwdriver. Touch the handle to your cheek bone and the screwdriver tip to the pipe and find the loud part. Knowing exactly where the noise is coming from will help you troubleshoot it more easily.
Check for an obstruction in the line.
I have had my gate valve sitting right at the exit from my overflow 4 1/2 feet high, and other set ups I have had it down by the sump. That placement has not made a difference for me. I have had my pipes submerged 4 inches and 1/2 inch. Shallow pipes catch faster but both work.
The one issue I have had with noise was when I was using 1.5" inch pipe with a slower flow. It could have been cavitation but it would go away. I ended up moving to a 1" pipe and gate valve. It fixed things. The overflow setup in the photo is decommissioned but it gives you the idea about the u-turn pipe on the exit. You don't have to glue it on to have it work. For what it is worth, my newer systems don't have the third pipe and things have been ok.
Thanks. Super appreciate all of the perspective. I think you are right..... I have to have a leak somewhere. I’ll try the screwdriver advice to isolate where the noise is coming From And move forward from there.
I do believe I have solved the vortex issue.... I’ve got the u shaped elbow from synergy reef and I’m using it now. The first drain is fully submerged and I do not see any vortex.
Somehow I have an issue in the pipe. Let’s see if I can find/isolate it.
I do believe I have solved the vortex issue.... I’ve got the u shaped elbow from synergy reef and I’m using it now. The first drain is fully submerged and I do not see any vortex.
Somehow I have an issue in the pipe. Let’s see if I can find/isolate it.
