Bean animal plumbing question?

TerraCaelus · Sep 7, 2015

I am going to plumb my new tank with a bean animal style. My sump only has one input line. Can I Y plumb both the drains into the one? Will this work?

buckeye82 · Sep 7, 2015

ImageUploadedByREEF2REEF1441677476.599251.jpg

Yes, that is how mine is ran and works great.

TerraCaelus · Sep 7, 2015

buckeye82 said:
Yes, that is how mine is ran and works great.

Wow! That is amazing! I just might steal it!

TerraCaelus · Sep 7, 2015

buckeye82 said:
Yes, that is how mine is ran and works great.

Are the couplings threaded?

badfinger · Sep 7, 2015

I don't believe it will work the way it is intended to work the way buckeye has it set up.

The first drain with the gate valve, should have full syphon . And if I am correct (maybe I am not) you will loose full syphon with the air from the durso drain, and back up drain

pbauec · Sep 7, 2015

Badfinger is correct. All questions about a BeanAnimal should be asked at reef central and not here. The experts on that system are there. I see that plumbing as a disaster that hasn't happened yet. But I know nobody here will listen.

badfinger · Sep 7, 2015

One word of advice though, always use a sanitary T on the full syphon or it won't work properly.

The durso will start before full syphon as intended, but your syphon will never "self-start" without the sanitary T. After power out, or water change you have to create the syphon by closing gate valve until enough water can create syphon.

I used this system for 4 years, and had to change out my regular T, for a sanitary T. Made all the difference. I found this system easier than herbie method which is on my current tank

TerraCaelus · Sep 7, 2015

badfinger said:
One word of advice though, always use a sanitary T on the full syphon or it won't work properly.

The durso will start before full syphon as intended, but your syphon will never "self-start" without the sanitary T. After power out, or water change you have to create the syphon by closing gate valve until enough water can create syphon.

I used this system for 4 years, and had to change out my regular T, for a sanitary T. Made all the difference. I found this system easier than herbie method which is on my current tank

So I have the synergy overflow and it's 1" fitting. I cannot find any sanitary Ts for 1 inch

ReefMadScientist · Sep 7, 2015

Work with gravity, do not work against it.

buckeye82 · Sep 7, 2015

badfinger said:
One word of advice though, always use a sanitary T on the full syphon or it won't work properly.

The durso will start before full syphon as intended, but your syphon will never "self-start" without the sanitary T. After power out, or water change you have to create the syphon by closing gate valve until enough water can create syphon.

I used this system for 4 years, and had to change out my regular T, for a sanitary T. Made all the difference. I found this system easier than herbie method which is on my current tank

Mine has all 3 sanitary t's. I know the pic does not show the best. It also 100% will self start after power failure. My power goes off monthly around here so this system has been tested heavily in that area. First drain with the gate is full siphon and only reason partial open is because of how much water I prefer to keep in my overflow for noise silence.

ReefMadScientist · Sep 7, 2015

I guess I have nothing to worry about. I do not buy/make tanks with holes at the bottom

TerraCaelus · Sep 8, 2015

Is it ok to go from 1" to 1.5" so that I can use sanitary Ts?

badfinger · Sep 8, 2015

Buckeye, but you loose the full syphon as soon as it hits the air from the other 2 drains. It has been years since I have looked at the graph but I believe 1" pipe can handle 1300-1400gph in full syphon. Problem starts once it hits air from other drains and loses "full syphon"

Terra, you will have to use couplings to get to the correct size. I believe 1 1/2" you can get at trailer (camping, modular homes) supply stores

Mine was out the back top left and worked great

TerraCaelus · Sep 8, 2015

I am also considering plumbing the partial syphon into my refugium and the emergency will go down in the return section.

badfinger · Sep 8, 2015

Mine was plumbed, full syphon and durso into input section, and backup into return section

TerraCaelus · Sep 8, 2015

badfinger said:
Mine was plumbed, full syphon and durso into input section, and backup into return section

This worked well and silent?

pbauec · Sep 8, 2015

At start ups you will have significant flow through the open channel, but during normal operation you will have only a trickle. And the dry emergency should stay dry except during emergency. Both the open channel and full emergency should always exit under about an inch of water, dry emergency should always be out if water so you hear the splashing.

badfinger · Sep 8, 2015

When I say both into the first section, they were both with separate pipes, I used a diy sump.

This is a set and forget system, no small adjustments all the time as with herbie.

Completely silent, and no worry about tank water raising too high incase you close your valve too much, the durso will handle the left over (up to around 700gph extra) and if more than that the backup will handle it

Make sure your backup, is as straight as can be, if you can make it with no 90 or 45s is the best

TaylorPilot · Sep 8, 2015

How much flow are you wishing to put through the system?

TerraCaelus · Sep 8, 2015

badfinger said:
Buckeye, but you loose the full syphon as soon as it hits the air from the other 2 drains. It has been years since I have looked at the graph but I believe 1" pipe can handle 1300-1400gph in full syphon. Problem starts once it hits air from other drains and loses "full syphon"

Terra, you will have to use couplings to get to the correct size. I believe 1 1/2" you can get at trailer (camping, modular homes) supply stores

Mine was out the back top left and worked great

I have a trigger sump and the imput is 4 inches below the water line. Is this going to be a problem?