Bean animal vs Bashsea sump need input

dustint21

Active Member
View Badges
Joined
Feb 22, 2009
Messages
139
Reaction score
145
Location
TEXAS
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
I just took delivery of my Bashsea SS36 sump. It has two 1” bulkheads GLUED in.... my plan was to replace them with 1.5” bulkheads for my bean animal overflow. Since they are glued in how should I go about pluming from 1.5” drain pipes to the 1” bulkheads? I have the 1.5” red pvc on the way already along with the 1.5” gate valve... should I neck it down at the sump? Or would I be better off ordering 1” pvc and gate valve and neck it down at the bottom of the overflow box?

Thanks for the help!

1E169910-69BC-4C83-9D87-A9676506BC99.jpeg


94F12196-6650-45FE-A825-F836B02861CA.jpeg
 
Sexy as hell first off. And clean as hell. I would just do the reducer union into the sump. Cheaper, won’t harm anything, and easiest thing to do.

Thank you! I’m not a plumber so I just wanted to be sure that wouldn’t cause any issues down the road. The third emergency overflow will go directly into the skimmer section so no issues there.
 
You don’t need a valve on your emergency channel or your siphon( assuming you know this)but if you want them there nothing wrong with that. It just may be difficult to 45 one of the two pipes( the middle one) over to the 1” bulkheads with the valve present. And I would for sure avoid horizontal runs to the sump for the siphon and open channel if possible. If not possible, it can work but isn’t ideal.
Also, are you running your standpipes into a common manifold? This creates a possible single point of failure and may eliminate all benefits of the Bean floodsafe capabilities.
 
You don’t need a valve on your emergency channel or your siphon( assuming you know this)but if you want them there nothing wrong with that. It just may be difficult to 45 one of the two pipes( the middle one) over to the 1” bulkheads with the valve present. And I would for sure avoid horizontal runs to the sump for the siphon and open channel if possible. If not possible, it can work but isn’t ideal.
Also, are you running your standpipes into a common manifold? This creates a possible single point of failure and may eliminate all benefits of the Bean floodsafe capabilities.

The manifold is run by my eflux 6011. It flows 3100 gph before head loss. I’m hoping it will be big enough.

The over flow box on my tank is 40” wide and spans across most of the back. There should be plenty of room for plumbing. I plan to run only one gate valve and have all three overflow draining into the sump separately.

E5EE3B59-762B-446E-A533-4D7F33975D04.jpeg
 
The manifold is run by my eflux 6011. It flows 3100 gph before head loss. I’m hoping it will be big enough.

The over flow box on my tank is 40” wide and spans across most of the back. There should be plenty of room for plumbing. I plan to run only one gate valve and have all three overflow draining into the sump separately.

E5EE3B59-762B-446E-A533-4D7F33975D04.jpeg
Flow or size of the manifold isn’t really relevant to Beans system. It will drain water with high flow. But if you’re running all of your standpipes into a single header, which unless I’m misreading the picture appears what you have, then you could have startup issues with the siphon secondary to the horizontal run, as well as potentially zero flood failsafe benefits of a Beananimal system. The system is only guaranteed to work with three isolated independent standpipes.
* just read that you plan to have the pipes drain separately which is good to hear. Just making sure you’re aware that needs to happen prior to any sort of horizontal common header, in other words, at the bulkheads from the weir down into the sump independently
 
I don't think any of the drain lines are installed yet in the picture
Cool, I don’t think so either, just making sure OP isn’t plumbing the standpipes from that common header with the three valves. Maybe those are spraybars etc for the sump/ skimmer etc?
 
Yeah that's the return manifold for reactors and what have ya. Never liked drain lines into a common header. Bad idea in my mind like you explained.
 
I just took delivery of my Bashsea SS36 sump. It has two 1” bulkheads GLUED in.... my plan was to replace them with 1.5” bulkheads for my bean animal overflow. Since they are glued in how should I go about pluming from 1.5” drain pipes to the 1” bulkheads? I have the 1.5” red pvc on the way already along with the 1.5” gate valve... should I neck it down at the sump? Or would I be better off ordering 1” pvc and gate valve and neck it down at the bottom of the overflow box?

Thanks for the help!

1E169910-69BC-4C83-9D87-A9676506BC99.jpeg


94F12196-6650-45FE-A825-F836B02861CA.jpeg

Definitely like the color combo, I went with the black and blue myself
 
Nice clean build. Like the powdercoated stand and adjustable feet, as well as the long coast to coast. Did the same to all my tanks and have full length C2C’s on all of them as well. Here’s the latest in-wall with a 6’ weir,( just started cycling) which isn’t as aesthetic as yours, but I didn’t care cus all the plumbing’s behind the wall.

F0C1C8D9-8175-4407-B520-98E8E747234F.jpeg
 
Nice clean build. Like the powdercoated stand and adjustable feet, as well as the long coast to coast. Did the same to all my tanks and have full length C2C’s on all of them as well. Here’s the latest in-wall with a 6’ weir,( just started cycling) which isn’t as aesthetic as yours, but I didn’t care cus all the plumbing’s behind the wall.

F0C1C8D9-8175-4407-B520-98E8E747234F.jpeg


That looks great!

There are no overflow drains installed in my pics. Only return plumbing. The manifold is for reactors and such.

The overflow drain pipes will be strait runs into the sump.

I am more worried about downsizing from 1.5” to 1” at the sump. Just wanted to be sure there were no I’ll effects before wasting time and money on something that wasn’t going to work.
 
That looks great!

There are no overflow drains installed in my pics. Only return plumbing. The manifold is for reactors and such.

The overflow drain pipes will be strait runs into the sump.

I am more worried about downsizing from 1.5” to 1” at the sump. Just wanted to be sure there were no I’ll effects before wasting time and money on something that wasn’t going to work.
There will be no I’ll effects other than more turbulence directly out of the bottoms of your standpipes due to increased pressure from the smaller diameter as well as some loss of total flow. Not a huge deal though.
Is your loc- line at least the same diameter?
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

  • Yes!

    Votes: 32 45.7%
  • Not yet, but I have one that I want to buy in mind!

    Votes: 9 12.9%
  • No.

    Votes: 26 37.1%
  • Other (please explain).

    Votes: 3 4.3%

New Posts

Back
Top