BeanAnimal parts list?

[mr11]

Does this exist?

This is the closest I've found, it seems good to me but I've never done any plumbing before so if you guys could check it that'd be great:

1x $36.55 355015 (1.5" PVC T.U.BALL VALVE SLIP)
3x $4.88 101015 (1.5" TEE PVC DWV)
3x $1.81 436015 (1.5" PVC 40 MPT ADAPT)
3x $1.58 447015 (1.5" PVC 40 CAP)
3x $19.29 501010 (1.0" SLIP BULKHEAD BLACK)
3x $2.05 437211 (1.5" 2 X 1 PVC 40 SXS BUSH)
3x $5.66 636002 (0.25" MPT X SPEEDFIT ADAP.) (Subbed for 1/4 X 3/8)
3x $3.70 409010 (1.0” STREET 90) (Subbed for 1 x 1.5")
3x $2.16 16002 (0.25" POLY TUBING) (Minimum qty is 10')
5x $3.27 40015 (1.5" PVC SCH 40) (Minimum qty is 5')
5x $3.45 40010 (1.0" PVC SCH 40) (Minimum qty is 5')

Except I am using 1" not 1.5" and also need to plumb the return. Let me know what you think. Also if theres an easy to follow step by step I'd be interested in that too.

 

[dbl]

Only suggestion I have when it comes to plumbing, is buy more than you think you'll need. You can always take it back but it's a pain when you don't have it in the middle of plumbing something up.

 

[ReeferBob]

Holy smokes some of those prices are a RIPOFF! Bulkheads are like $3. Check out Amazon and King brothers parts. Especially those bulkheads. Also you do not need a true union valve. Get a King gate valve and a regular union. The TU valves are overkill. I would just get the hard to find pieces online and get the rest from home depot - 3x what you need - and return the extra ones.

Also look at the below, PVC compression fittings. They are my favorite fitting I use them on all of my connections now. I use a short, 6" stub piece coming out of my bulkhead, then right into the below, then to the rest of the plumbing. It makes it very easy to remove the bulkhead and if you ever change your setup, the bulkhead is also reusable. It also lets you move your plumbing 360 degrees within the fitting. This is useful for cleaning out filter socks by swinging the drain out of the way.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000H5Q9BW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[mr11]

Awesome thanks for your suggestions. I've continued doing my research on this topic and will be heading to the hardware store tomorrow. Some great ideas ReeferBob, especially those compression fitting.

 

[rlugo113]

I'm following as I plan to do a 1" BeanAnimal as well. Mr11 do you plan on posting how you put yours together?
I'm trying to visualize how these compression fittings help but I'm not understanding

 

[mr11]

I can try to post how I put mine together, but be warned I don't know what I'm doing . Yesterday I actually decided to purchase all of my supplies in 1.5" and expanding up from my 1" bulkheads. I now think that was a big mistake with an external overflow box and vertical bulkheads. I wouldn't gain anything except noise from a 1" pipe all of a sudden opening to 1.5" while traveling down the back of my tank. I'm going to return the parts and go 1" all the way like I originally planned.

 

[rlugo113]

Yeah but this way I can learn from your mistakes lol

 

[ReeferBob]

Buying a size (or 2) up will not hurt your installation nor will it make it any louder. Full siphon is full siphon you still will not hear anything. In fact, this is the recommended method for a Durso style drain. Don't forget plenty of unions and also support your plumbing with proper plumbing hangers where needed. I use a single full siphon 1" drain on my tank and I have to slightly crank it down (using a gate valve) to achieve equilibrium with my DC-9000 return pump running full speed (~2300gph). I am right at the rated flow for this size plumbing.

FYI: The compression fittings help by not requiring you to put a permanent fitting on the part of the plumbing coming out of your bulkhead. This means you do not have to sacrifice your bulkheads (or plumbing) if you ever want to change. You could also do threaded fittings but I prefer slip (glue) since it is VERY hard to get a threaded fitting to not leak.

My bulkheads are slip on both sides. This allows plumbing to be glued in for a leak-free fit coming out of the tank and the inside it just a friction fit (just set the pipe into the slip fitting) for the drain stand-pipe since it doesn't matter if that end leaks a bit. Even if you used a union coming out of the bulkhead, you would have to cut it off if you wanted to remove the bulkhead. The compression fittings eliminate that problem. And as a bonus, you can rotate your plumbing within the compression fitting. This was an unexpected surprise when I went to change my filter socks and realized it was beneficial to swing the plumbing out of the way.

 

[rlugo113]

Thanks for clarification

 

[mr11]

Alright so here's what I've set up so far. Nothing is glued yet so please let me know if you see any errors I need to fix. I don't know how to execute the john guest fitting. Any tips or alternatives? Critique me!

Thanks,
Matt

 

[spllbnd2]

I would recommend a union on all three coming off of the overflow box. The center drain is good to go, but I would suggest putting a union in the other 2 drains. This will help if or should I say when you need to take them apart for maintenance later on or if a little bugger snail or hermit gets in there.

Cheers,
Alex

 

[rlugo113]

Matt, I clearly see what you've done with the two pipes on the right hand side. Do you mind telling me the parts used in the box on the left pipe?

 

[mr11]

No problem. The left pipe is my emergency drain. It's just a straight pipe in the external overflow that sits just below the top of the overflow. It drains down into the sump but the pipe is above the water level in the sump a good ways so that I can hear the water splashing. This allows me to know when the emergency drain is in use, which is never a good thing.

 

[mr11]

Oh and I did purchase some compression fittings. I don't have to glue these in?

 

[Drakonis]

Its been a while since i researched bean animal but make sure about the height of the full syphon and the durso. also i assume your going to but durso needs vent line and secure vent line above normal water level in overflow box but below third emergency drain that way the durso becomes a second full syphon before the emergency pipe ever gets involved. lastly your emergency pipe needs to be enough below the max water level prior to spilling out to get into full syphon if the situation ever arrises if its not low enough the vortex will pull air and prevent full syphon.

 

[ReeferBob]

That looks good. The John guest is tapped into the 2nd (center) pipe (open channel). Just drill a hole the correct size and thread it into the top of the 90 fitting. Then, like Drakonis said, attach a length of tubing that is above the water line, allowing the open channel to be open (needs air to operate properly) and if the water level rises enough the end of the tubing is under water and allow that drain to turn into a full siphon.

 

[rlugo113]

No problem. The left pipe is my emergency drain. It's just a straight pipe in the external overflow that sits just below the top of the overflow. It drains down into the sump but the pipe is above the water level in the sump a good ways so that I can hear the water splashing. This allows me to know when the emergency drain is in use, which is never a good thing.

It looked like you had some fittings on the emergency, but I see now that they are sitting on top of the tank [emoji1]
Question: Is the valve necessary on the middle pipe?

 

[ReeferBob]

It looked like you had some fittings on the emergency, but I see now that they are sitting on top of the tank [emoji1]
Question: Is the valve necessary on the middle pipe?

Nope! The only necessary valve is the gate valve on the primary siphon.

 

[rlugo113]

I thought so but what's your reason for putting one there?

 

[mr11]

I put one in there because the original bean animal plans had one . It's just a ball valve, not a gate. And to be honest I don't really know when or if I'll ever use it.

As for the john guest, can I just drill a hole in the top of the 90 of the open channel? To do this I assume the water level would need to be below the hole and the hole would need to be below the emergency drain height (which as mentioned above I think I need to lower a tad).